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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,017
Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,017 |
alright, I drive a 1995 SE V6 MTX (I should put this in my sig one day...) and it's got a good 170k miles on it. it's time for some rebuilding, it keeps popping up with stupid little problems. I want to get all the filters, hoses, and fluids fresh. spark plugs/wires too, but I think my belts are pretty much fine...what's everyone's best guess on a price estimate?
1995 SE
2.5L V6/MTX
187k
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 6,106
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 6,106 |
If you do all the work, under $300
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
At 170k it might be a good idea to just rebore the engine.
That would add machining costs and $150 for new pistons.
A valve job is definitely a good idea.
New timing components would be smart.
Maybe new HLA's as well.
When you really look at it. Buying a low mileage 3L is the same price if not cheaper then rebuilding a tired 2.5L engine.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,017
Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,017 |
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
When you really look at it. Buying a low mileage 3L is the same price if not cheaper then rebuilding a tired 2.5L engine.
really? obviously I'd get a lot more life out of a newer 3L than rehashing my 2.5L, but I'm just concerned with the labor. I've replaced a few of the major components in the car (clutch, AC system), and the motor still seems to run just fine. so "under $300" for hoses, fluids, filters, etc. whatever, to $1000-1500 for a 3L plus labor seems a bit higher. I will admit this engine is tired at 170k but I also know I wont be able to actually replace the tour for quite some time. this summer, my paychecks are pretty much going to go to getting my car good'n healthy again, so in your well respected opinion Demon, what's the best option?
at this point, my car is parked due to both up and downstream O2 sensors being shot, so at this point I'm looking in the future, as in the next few months.
btw, I've been reading about the O2 sensors, and I have indeed pulled codes saying upstream and downstream are both giving me issues. My car keeps stalling out and not turning back on, and we seem to think it's the sensors making it run too rich, cause if you let it sit a while it'll come back on. it drives fine, but totaling around $350 for all four sensors to be replaced, should I just replace the upstreams? I did get a code for downstreams, but I'm not sure if it's necessary. the only other code I got was the EGR valve, which I plan to clean/replace while I'm at the O2 sensors (should I clean it or replace it?)
man, that's a lot of questions...sorry guys, just want my tour back up and running healthy again.
1995 SE
2.5L V6/MTX
187k
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 25
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 25 |
I recommend replacing the upstream ones first and see what happens. A CAT will not work properly with a bad upstream sensor and the downstream sensor could be OK. Take it one step at a time. Presuming the engine runs OK after replacing the upstream sensors, clear the codes and drive for a while to see if the downstream sensor codes reappear.
eric
1998 SVT totally stock
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