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I have a 98 Zetec with an ocasional alt light flash. Some times for a second, once up to an hour and a half. Every thing checks out good. Battery is 12.6v off, running is 14.2v and never been dead. Pulled lead off running and light on she stays running. My questions is will an over volt cause the light to come on or any thing else in the charge circut like amps? How much is over volt?16v? Thanks for any help. Mark Fort Lupton CO.
If it ain't broke, Don't Fix It!!!
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The light on the dash is an UNDERvoltage light.
This is present when the charging system begins to NOT charge the battery. It has absolutely nothing to do with the actual battery voltage.. you can remove the battery on a running engine, and the light will be off, still (on a normally working car)
That light indicates either a slipping alternator, or a blown megafuse (though with it being intermittent, I would look towards the alternator.. the brushes are most likely worn and beginning to float at higher rpms. Give your 3 weeks MAX until you have to replace your alt (even if it is longer than that, by chance, still plan on it..)
If your light STAYS on while driving:
kill all electronic devices (headlights, radio, interior, subs, everything.
drive at a moderate level. avoid high rpms.. shift early.
Look to get about 60 miles(ish)... you COULD go further on a GOOD, CHARGED battery (like 80-100miles) but your light having been flickering would indicate that your battery MAY NOT be getting an optimal charge at all times.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Only thing is, is this has been on going for over a year and no problems except the light. I have shut every thing off to see if the load drop would kill the light and it does'nt. It does'nt matter if it is idol or 5k rpm. This new techknolagy is killing me, like with that oil pressure cam advance. I just finished T-belt & pullys tonight! Who knows what they would do with electronics? With that I did a gaterback serpintine and now I have that wine I hear them talking about in the other forems. I also did a new gauge cluster. One with the tack (she wanted it) and test drove 3 miles and no light yet. I will watch for it. I thought I was sure as you stated in your responce, low/no voltage. thats simple old school stuff. Any other ideas??? Thanks, Mark
If it ain't broke, Don't Fix It!!!
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either way, I still bank on a low voltage/dying alternator.
Next time the light is on.. check your battery voltage while running.
should be 14.2 volts (around there)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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In my first test that is exactly what I got was 14.2v with light on as I wrote above. I'm sorry I left out while light on. Thats whats got me stumped. Was gen mechanic in army and not doing me any good now.
If it ain't broke, Don't Fix It!!!
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Suprise! light is back to old tricks. Ray! where are you All-mighty one master of knowlage. 
If it ain't broke, Don't Fix It!!!
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Check your pre-tensioner.
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So.. to paraphrase:
Your light is irratic.
WHEN your light is on, you still have 14.2 volts.. even if you rev the car to a mid point? (3500, 4000?) (the revving part is imprortant..lol)
I can think of two things:
One: You haven't tried revving it while measuring with the light on. (it could be your belt slipping under load, or tensioner, etc.
Two: the connection that leads to the "idiot light" on the alternator is loose, and causing intermittant opens on that circuit, triggering the light even though you are charging fine.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Pulling the battery lead off with the engine running might have been OK for your dads 67 chevy, but it is extremely risky for a modern car. An unregulated alternator can put out over 40 volts at idle, A shorted diode can cause an opposite polarity spike. This can damage your electronics.
A voltage test with all the accessories on is the best way to test. And as Ray said, raising the RPM under load and testing the voltage is important.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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To be absolutely straight, here..
I was not SUGGESTING that he, or anyone, remove their cables while running.. I was merely inferring that the light had nothing to do with the battery itself, and removing it would thus prove it. However, I am glad that you pointed this out, if there was any inclination (misunderstanding, and poor conveyance)that I was suggesting this.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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