Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle CD4E with possible/probable worn valve body

I have a 97 Contour, 2.0l, CD4E, 108K miles....I just put the trans back in yesterday. I had replaced all the parts that came in the standard rebuild kit (clutch discs, etc) and installed the Transgo CD4E-JR shift kit. With the car still on jack stands I started the engine & put the car in gear (1, 2, D, and R)..and the axle spun. I put the tires on, put the car on the ground, started it & put it in gear (Reverse) and...nothing. I let it sit and idle for a while (while trying to come up with plan B). I put it into reverse again, gave it 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and it shifted & moved. I shifted to Drive, same thing...no initial motion, give it 1/2 throttle, feel it shift into gear and move. I drove it around the block and the O/D light started flashing. I will scan the car tonight for codes. From what I've read, it's probably a problem with the TC or the valve body, or both.

Sorry for the long explanation, but my question is...what is the main difference between the Transgo shift kit and the kits offered by Sonnex? Same parts but different brand? Should I have used the Sonnex kit instead of the Transgo kit? Also, any thoughts on the above mentioned symptoms would be greatly appreciated. I've read about a lot of people having a bang-shift scenario, but that wasn't my case. When the car did shift into gear it was fairly smooth.

Thank you in advance!
Gary

Did you purchase a new modified oil pump backing plate? Did you install the new gasket for the modifed plate? Were you having problems before the rebuild, slipping, etc. I would say torque converter is a must replacement item when rebuilding atx.

If you did not rebuild the oil pump, this could have been part of your problem in the first place. The fact that a similar problem occurs in all gears, I think rules out the solonoid body.

How did you install the new piston seals? Did you use a seal installer kit? Did you run pressure checks before final assembly?

Bob

Did you purchase a new modified oil pump backing plate? Did you install the new gasket for the modifed plate?

--> I purchased, what I was assured by New York Hard Parts, was the modified oil pump (complete, not just the plate) and a new gasket.

Were you having problems before the rebuild, slipping, etc. I would say torque converter is a must replacement item when rebuilding atx.

--> I was having problems. The car would accelerate in 1st gear and start to shift to second. Then (insert imagination here) it was like someone had slowly stepped on the clutch and the trans became disengaged. The warmer the car got, the sooner the problem occurred. I realize it's an automatic trans, but the clutch analogy is the best way I can describe it. When I rebuilt the trans, I found that the pump shaft & the inner surface of the forward/direct/coast clutch assembly were both scored. The later part was also replaced. The TC is original. I have the Ford CD and a Ford Technical Manual for the CD4E. I was very careful at every step to measure, check clearances, etc. However, it is the first trans I've rebuilt and I am open to suggestions, criticism, etc.

If you did not rebuild the oil pump, this could have been part of your problem in the first place. The fact that a similar problem occurs in all gears, I think rules out the solonoid body.

--> The solenoid body is original and was re-used, as was the TSS.

How did you install the new piston seals? Did you use a seal installer kit? Did you run pressure checks before final assembly?

--> I installed the piston seals with a jeweler's screwdriver...very, VERY carefully, over several hours. In hindsight, the seal installer kit would have been much faster and well worth the money. I did a pressure check by sticking an air hose in the appropriate holes, using limited pressure (I don't remember the exact amount, but it was fairly low) and listening for the "clicking" of the clutch plates engaging.

In this whole process the one thing that bothered me was the valve body. Several of the valves seemed to stick in the holes & not slide as smoothly as the others. At the time I figured that they were difficult to get out and that was why they were difficult to get back in. Maybe that was a huge oversight..????

Thank you for your time!!
Gary

There is clutch material in the Torque Conveter ... you should not have reused it. What was your post install/pre-start checklist?

IIRC, you should have filled up the trans with fluid through the dipstick (approximately 12 quarts total). Started the car and the move the gear selector from Park to Nuetral, waited a few seconds, the move into each gear (foot on the brake of course) for a few seconds (5-10), working your way down through all the gears, then back. Manually, each gear should engage. What you are doing is working the fluid through the transmission & valvebody. Only after doing this, should you have tried to drive the car.

There is clutch material in the Torque Conveter ... you should not have reused it. What was your post install/pre-start checklist?

IIRC, you should have filled up the trans with fluid through the dipstick (approximately 12 quarts total). Started the car and the move the gear selector from Park to Nuetral, waited a few seconds, the move into each gear (foot on the brake of course) for a few seconds (5-10), working your way down through all the gears, then back. Manually, each gear should engage. What you are doing is working the fluid through the transmission & valvebody. Only after doing this, should you have tried to drive the car.

--> Before the work was done, the trans would "slip" and after the motor running for 20 to 30 minutes the trans would not engaged at all. When I drove it around the block the other day, at one point I gave it about half throttle to get it going and then slowly went towards full throttle (only for a few seconds). The more throttle I gave the more it "locked up". Your point is well taken that the TC needs to be replaced.

I did the exact procedure you listed...fill the trans, work through each gear with the brake on, etc. I did this while it was still on the jack stands. When I let off the brake in each gear the axles responded immediately. When I put the car on the ground I did the same procedure again. Then when I let off the brake the car didn't move. It only moved when I gave it 1/2 + throttle. All of this has led me back to the valve body, but I am open to suggestions (like the TC, thanks!).

Gary

Well, it could be one or the other. Considering the mileage, the TC is definitely in need of replacing. However, to pinpoint the problem with the least amount of effort, I would suggest replacing the VB first and see if they helps. It's easier than pulling the tranny to replace the TC (although that must be done eventually).

Phoenix Hard Parts Rebuilt VB: http://www.phoenixhardparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=414

I agree with fastcougar. Replacing the valve body would be a first step without having to remove the tranny.....

If you are still in the DIY mode and have energy, I'd pull the atx back out and install a new TC. Dayco is great.

Bob

Many thanks to everyone for your help & input!! I just checked with Phoenix Hard Parts...$219!! That's much better than the $705 the dealer quoted (not that I was going to get it there, but I was curious).

Thanks!

Gary