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Originally posted by RedCoat999:
Originally posted by LGR Mystique:
I have the same problem and found out my transmission is going and would cost me $3000 CDN for a rebuilt Tranny. I came to notice when you exit the highway and come to a stop light, if you put the car in Neutual and shut the car off and start back up it will fix the problem for now. I am currently doing this until i can afford to get a new tranny.hopes this helps




I have the same symptoms. When the slamming occurs, I turn the car off for a split second and turn it on again, and the problem goes away... If this is leaky valves, then why does the problem go away by turning the ignition off for 0.5 second. Doesn't that indicate electrical issues that are the real cause (I don't doubt that the valves are no longer in good shape)???




The harsh shifting in all gears is due to the computer dropping the transmision into limp mode when it detects certain problems. Turning the engine off momentrily resets the status of the computer and it goes back into normal mode until the next time it detects the fault.

The VR valve in the valve body is the root failure in the transmission. It wears in the bore and either sticks or leaks causing fluid overheating and triggering limp mode. Due to design peculiarities, when the transmission goes into limp mode, cooler flow and TC flow is diminished which aggravates the problem.

If you catch it in time, an upgraded valve body will fix it. If not in time, the TC will be damaged and the tranny has to be pulled to replace the TC and often results in the tranny getting rebuilt at the same time.

I'm about 6-7 weeks (3000-4000 miles) into a replacement valve body after having this same problem. I also immediately had the car parked to stop the damage to the TC. Working perfectly so far.

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Hi, guys, really great to find out this website. Maybe someone can give me advice on my 98 contour SE. OK, there is the story. I'm in Kitchener. I bought this contour SE two month ago, the odometer reading was 200k. I didn't drive on the highway until this Monday on a trip to Niagara Falls. After I got there, the auto transmission start to function very funny. It won't engage after the red light stop, I have to step on the accelerator hard, then suddenly it engaged and car thrust out. From gear 1 to gear 2, the change is harsh and the engine speed is not stable (up and down until the speed was brought up). After 60km/h, every thing works smooth. The problem has been the same since last trip.

The thing is there has been a transmission rebuilt on the first owner at about 100k. This car hasn't give me any rouble when I only drove on local. It seems the problem is from gear 1 to gear 2 when speed is under 40km/h.

Does it mean this auto transmssion is nearly dead? How can I deal with it? I don't want put another 2000 dollars into this car. Maybe a used transmission? or maybe it is only problem with the torque convertor? Oh, there is another thing, when the car idle at red light, the engine periodicly shaking, it seems the engine engaged for a while then lost, and then engaged. The shaking is from that change.

Thanks a lot guys.


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Originally posted by rz_ca:
.. the odometer reading was 200k. I didn't drive on the highway until this Monday on a trip to Niagara Falls......It won't engage after the red light stop, I have to step on the accelerator hard, then suddenly it engaged and car thrust out. From gear 1 to gear 2, the change is harsh and the engine speed is not stable (up and down until the speed was brought up). After 60km/h, every thing works smooth. The problem has been the same since last trip.

The thing is there has been a transmission rebuilt on the first owner at about 100k. This car hasn't give me any rouble when I only drove on local. It seems the problem is from gear 1 to gear 2 when speed is under 40km/h.

Does it mean this auto transmssion is nearly dead? How can I deal with it? I don't want put another 2000 dollars into this car. Maybe a used transmission? or maybe it is only problem with the torque convertor? Oh, there is another thing, when the car idle at red light, the engine periodicly shaking, it seems the engine engaged for a while then lost, and then engaged. The shaking is from that change.

Thanks a lot guys.





Welcome . The transmission could be be on its way out. Did you try changing the ATFluid first to see if it helps?
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=992476&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1



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I bought my 98 Mystique for about $1000 CDN bucks. The guy i bought it off of told me the only problem is the TC is on it's way out, so yes i'm getting the hard shift after exiting the highway. I'm still saving up to get a new one but just today i noticed me O/D light flashing and noticed anytime the car goes over 3000RPM on the Highway it starts to kind of stall like its not gettin any gas kind of thing. Anyone know how i can fix this?

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Originally posted by LGR Mystique:
I bought my 98 Mystique for about $1000 CDN bucks. The guy i bought it off of told me the only problem is the TC is on it's way out, so yes i'm getting the hard shift after exiting the highway. I'm still saving up to get a new one but just today i noticed me O/D light flashing and noticed anytime the car goes over 3000RPM on the Highway it starts to kind of stall like its not gettin any gas kind of thing. Anyone know how i can fix this?




Don't go over 3000 RPM during highway speeds.

3000 RPM at highway speed is about 80 MPH = 128 KPH


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Im not doing it because of the speeding..im not sure if the tranny is trying to change gears and that's wen it feels like it'z stalling but what should i do for the flashing O/D light also?

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Originally posted by LGR Mystique:
Im not doing it because of the speeding..im not sure if the tranny is trying to change gears and that's wen it feels like it'z stalling but what should i do for the flashing O/D light also?




I think some CEGers have forestalled (postponed) eventual tranny failure due to TC failing with valve body kits (and solenoid packs?). Not sure if that might be the way for you to go.

Edit. 6 posts above (projectSHO89).

Last edited by Tony2005; 08/03/06 03:32 AM.

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Tony what do you mean?

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Read the post by projectsho89 above regarding VB (valve body) and TC. I was referring you to his present set up.

I think btrautman also tried that before doing a rebuild.


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Ok. im about to kick my car or even run it into a wall.it's starting to piss me off. Can't go over 3000 RPM without the car jooking is there any way i can fix this?

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