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Originally posted by btrautman:
JB Weld. Used it to repair atx internal crack and works great.



To hold the weight bearing & torsional force resisting transmission mount on???


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Well my tranny didn't have a chunk break off but my front mount broke once and not the rubber peice either. The new one has held fine ever since.


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by btrautman:
JB Weld. Used it to repair atx internal crack and works great.



To hold the weight bearing & torsional force resisting transmission mount on???




It doesnt hurt to try before pulling ATX!!!!!! If it doesn't work your out about 3 bucks......This stuff is great!

http://jbweld.net/index.php

Here is a use listing from their website:

AUTOS, MOTORCYCLES, MECHANICAL
fuel tanks
radiators
cracked engine blocks
transmission & rear-end casings
cylinder heads & sleeves
generators, starters, water & fuel pumps
axles & hubs
valve guides
press fit bearings
crankshaft pulleys
casting defects
door stops
key ways
stripped threads
body shop repairs

Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500�°



Bob

Last edited by btrautman; 04/10/05 01:38 PM.

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Originally posted by Swazo:
Originally posted by Endo:
Okay, here's the deal. A piece of the transaxle case actually broke off where the mount bolts to the bottom of the transaxle. The piece is still firmly secured to the bolt. Would it be possible to weld this back on with enough strength to be useful? How bad off am I without a tranny mount?




I'd see if you couldn't have it TIG welded back into place before replacing the transaxel all together. It's worth a shot atleast.




Tig welding would work but it will NEVER be as strong. He should plan on devising some reinforcement at that same time. Either add more metal blocks to the mounting area to increase the aluminum stiffness or get it back together and add an additional steel bracket that distributes the force to some other bolt holes on the transmission.

Wait, is this the axle side of the transmission where the differential is, or the other side (front)?
The diff side (Back) is where a lot of the rotational forces are. Does he mean where the stab-o-shock goes, then don't worry about it.


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Originally posted by warmonger:

Wait, is this the axle side of the transmission where the differential is, or the other side (front)?
The diff side (Back) is where a lot of the rotational forces are. Does he mean where the stab-o-shock goes, then don't worry about it.




Yes, it's on the axle side of the tranny, the front driver's side on the bottom, and it does have a shock attached to it.


-Endo -1998 Contour SVT 17" ADR RS Limited Mase in white with 215/45/17 Kumho 712's -1990 Camaro 355 TPI/5-speed
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If it is in front with a shock attached to it then it is on the opposite side of where the differential and rear roll restrictor is.

When I said axle side, I meant the side of the transmission that the axles are plugged into, i.e. the differential housing.

The part where the shock mounts is worthless! Unbolt the shock and throw all of that away. Get in on Pole's group buy for the solid polyurethane rear motor mount and buy energy suspension inserts for the front roll restrictor and you will have no more problems with that.
I have a turbo 3L and I don't even use the shock mount. The good news is you won't even have to pull the transmission at all unless there are other problems.


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wow that front mount broke! You can TIG on that tranny case but cast AL is usually rather dirty. Alot of brushing and grinding will need to be done to get good penetration. Welding that in pace upside down would be a hwore especially on AL. Good thick leathers would be neccassary otherwise you'll be dancing and smelling burning flesh/hair


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Alright, that's quite a relief.

Thanks for the info.


-Endo -1998 Contour SVT 17" ADR RS Limited Mase in white with 215/45/17 Kumho 712's -1990 Camaro 355 TPI/5-speed
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