|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 14
New CEG\'er
|
OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 14 |
I took it upon myself to do my own control arm replacement on my '98 SVT (97-1/2 actually). You're supposed to drop the subframe to get the drivers side LCA bolts out, so I figured I'd try and do it the right way. Now I've got the 2 rear subframe bolts slightly loosened and the nut inside the unibody is spinning. Can't get it off or even tightened back up. Anyone run into this before? The only option I see if to torch a hole in the uniframe to get at the nut.
This is a project gone wrong from the beginning. This is my everyday car and once i got the passenger side control arm out i realized I had the wrong bushings, and my ball joint was bad too, although didn't show any play before. Should have gone with the hole control arm to begin with I guess. Is the SVT control arm different from the others?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17
New CEG\'er
|
|
New CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17 |
If anyone else has any tips on drivers side control arm please share. This going be project for next week little scared might run into some problems 98 ford contour se..
Passenger side instructions look to be easy but this drivers side left looks to be a PITA
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,469
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,469 |
Did you use an air gun on the subframe bolts? If not try that. I had the same prob. when i tried to tighten them by hand it was just too slow and they nut would just spin. But when i put 100 psi thru an air gun they tightened right up. You need that instant jolt to get them to catch.
98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's.
"I say what I mean and I do what i say"
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
|
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
I think a few people have had to cut to get to the nut to hold it.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768 |
almost went bananas looking for this, but hey, I found it access holehth SVT LCA are no different from the regular.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 713
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 713 |
if that doesint work put a pry bar between the sub frame and the body and apply presure while tighting the bolt
unn less you can make a access hole dont take the bolt out or it will be very hard to get back in
98 svt sil/blu 3.0 oval heads full P&P, msds headers,bat kit,2,1/2exhaust 30 inch glasspack and 2 spintech mufflers 14.78@94mph
with my mechanical arm i can shift gears in less then a twentieth of a second for sale $7000
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
|
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
From Terry Haines:
...mount bolts.Issue,captive nuts in frame
spinning.Cure:Remove front carpet and padding and
'feel' for a slotted panel in the floor under the
soundproofing,cut the sound proofing with knife to
reveal slots,cut slots with snips and peel open.Put
22mm wrench on 'spinning captive nut and remove
subframe mount bolt!...easy!
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
|
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Yep had to do what Terry described to my SHO. Had to get a hole saw to cut my hole though. Measure 5 times to make sure I was in the right spot. LOL!
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 14
New CEG\'er
|
|
OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 14 |
Man, you guys are good! Found the slats in the floor after much cutting of soundproofing and weatherproofing. The threads are soaking in WD40 as I type. Got the correct (hopefully) LCA arms ordered this morning, and ordered new subframe bolts as well, and stabilizer links. Thanks for all the help guys!
Now I just need to round up enough jacks to hold the transmission, and lower the subframe. Piece of cake. Thats what neighbors are for.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 14
New CEG\'er
|
|
OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 14 |
Got the sub-frame bolts out! Did it wihout dropping the whole subframe too. Just loosened off the passenger side bolts and removed the drivers side bolts completely, then managed to pry it down enough to get the control arm bolts out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
