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Joined: Aug 2004
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by mikey boy:
take your hand. make a fist. put your fist down with your pinky touching a flat surface. now see the distance from the flat surface to the top of your fist? thats how high it is for me with H&R springs.
Good lookin svt!  What rims are those?
Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently.
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 7,012
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: May 2000
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 they are 18" ADR reactions. thanks
Oo (xxx)oO
o xxxxxxxx o
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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From my experience with mine on (it's off for now until i can repaint it), the only main concern is approach angles for driveways, dips, etc...these things are fairly tough in my experience. people made them seem so fragile before, but mine has held up through some stuff. If you scrape, worry about the paint more than the fiberglass. No problems with speedbumps, but I did ram a parking block that I didn't see..that hurt. 
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,600
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,600 |
who was it that had a metal plate made for the bottom of theirs? i have one on the way and was thinking of doing something similar. i looked for about an hour the other night for the pics and came up empty. basically the entire underside of the mirko was covered. then you wouldnt have to worry about the paint, and it would probably be slightly more resistant to damage (at least major stuff).
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,779
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
who was it that had a metal plate made for the bottom of theirs? i have one on the way and was thinking of doing something similar. i looked for about an hour the other night for the pics and came up empty. basically the entire underside of the mirko was covered. then you wouldnt have to worry about the paint, and it would probably be slightly more resistant to damage (at least major stuff).
I know Dan (ContourSVT98) has an aluminum plate on the underside of his...
I fail to see how the plate would help on the underside. It would lower the clearance even more and provide no real benefits. It will not save the paint on the front surface of the splitter in any way and who cares what happens to the paint on the underside of the splitter, I didn't even bother painting mine. The areas to worry about are the whole front surface and the leading egde of the splitter. The front surface is taking the blunt force of oncoming bugs/rocks/debris so it is inevitable it will be chipped sooner or later. The only salvation I see is the 3M clear guard stuff but a)it makes the paint look dull and b)is quite expensive. The leading edge is what will take all the scrapes and smacks. It is also inevitable and just requires care. The only reason mine got messed up was due to a few storms we had here when I should have just popped it off temporarily to save it from debris. It lasted 6 months with only a few chips that way and would have lasted longer had I removed it a few times. All you have to do to avoid scrapes and smacks is take care and understand the dynamics of your car while braking/accelerating. Understanding the simple concepts of dive and lift will help your splitter a long way...aka slow down before you get to a speed bump instead of braking while going over the speed bump, etc.
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 7,012
Hard-core CEG'er
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true true. i dont know about the plate either.
Oo (xxx)oO
o xxxxxxxx o
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Joined: Nov 2003
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The plate seems like it would serve more for reinforcement.. aka, less likly to crack when you hit a parking block. I'l agree with you two, though, thats alot of work for slightly less of uselfull purpose. Now.. I always thought if you "laminated" the mirko in that 3M clear bra material. Isn't it like 15mills thick? and its Chip proof. I could see that worth a shot for keeping it scrape free.
2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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These things are not flexible polyurethane, they're "solid" fiberglass, I see no reinforcement. I rammed a parking block and it took a small piece out but nothing major, most of the damage was shown because it took the paint off and showed the white fiberglass. I did mention the 3M clear bra stuff, and also listed why I would not go that route. My friend's WRX's front is completely covered in this stuff and to me, it's just not worth it. The stuff is quite expensive to boot. It's for people who are worried about the resale, not the now. Until they start making the stuff cheaper and more transparent, count me out.
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 60
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Where is the best place to buy the Mirko from and what price?
Thanks,
and do they make a CF version?
Or is anyone selling one?
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by Arsenal:
Where is the best place to buy the Mirko from and what price?
Heres the best place to buy a mirko now! for a Price: $205 + $57 packaging/shipping (+Tax in CA)
Originally posted by Arsenal:
and do they make a CF version?
IIRC, No...
Originally posted by Arsenal:
Or is anyone selling one?
Try HERE or HERE!
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