Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
#1187683 02/16/05 06:34 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
B
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
B
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
If one were to spin some main bearings on the crankshaft, could they get away with having the C.S. ground and polished and put new bearings in. OR would they have to take apart the entire engine and wash it out?
I spun my main bearings (low oil, really long hard right turn) It would cost , wellll
I really don't want to even think of how bad thy are gonna try to screw me on taking the engine apart to clean it out.
Please Help

Thank you

#1187684 02/16/05 01:34 PM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
T
I have no life
Offline
I have no life
T
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
Everything is a paper weight now. Cheaper to get a new engine. 3L's are $500. Just a new 2.5 crank is $1000 from FOrd.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#1187685 02/16/05 02:00 PM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
B
CEG'er
Offline
CEG'er
B
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
Always best to grind the crank. Let's see to rebuild generally.


Mill Heads and have new oil seals installed and valve job. About 250 from a machine shop

Grind crank 80 dollars

New main bearings - not from ford $80
New Rings Hastings $80
New Rod bearings $55

Hone block - $55

Reuse pistons if block does not have to be bored. Clean carbon from pistons, etc. very well.

Of course purchase gaskets - not from Ford.

New oil pump - $70

New timing components not from Ford. For all about $270 guides, chains, tensioners, etc.

New Rod bolts $20
New Main bolts $35

I prefer to rebuild and have a new engine instead of a used 3.0 or 2.5L.


Bob


An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
#1187686 02/16/05 05:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
B
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
B
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
Originally posted by todras:
Just a new 2.5 crank is $1000 from FOrd.



Actually, a new crankshaft from Bill Jenkins is about $270 dollars, but still thats $270. What about the labor to have this stuff done?
Can I just get a 3L long block for about the same price or maybe even less? and Where/who sould I get it from?


#1187687 02/16/05 06:50 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 285
F
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
F
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 285
If you actually SPUN the main bearings, then you can not simply just regrind the crank install the correct size bearing for the grind and put it all back together. You will also need to have the block line bored to make the crank cups true again. Just like if you spin a connecting rod bearing you can't just regrind the crank and put in new rod bearings. Really with the amount of time and money that is involved with that you are better off with at least a new short block. Or you can buy a whole used engine and install it.


Parting out 95-97 Contours/Mystiques. Contact me directly at ALFIGOLS@yahoo.com if you're looking for a particular part.
#1187688 02/16/05 09:06 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
B
Redneck Troll
Offline
Redneck Troll
B
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
Correct. If the mains spun, there is block damage you have to deal with. BTW, how do you know they're mains that spun and not rod bearings if the engine isn't apart? You usually cook a good portion of the crank beyond repair if it's an oil starvation issue.


http://www.bnmotorsports.com "And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
#1187689 02/17/05 08:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
B
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
B
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
Did I wirte main bearings? I meant rod bearings.
Apparently the rods would also need to be replaced , since the rods are what some call "crack rods", they don't have machined connections, they are meant to be discarded.

So Terry says I should either find a good short block or a good used engine. I am guessing a good used engine, because by the time I spend $$$ for labor on building up the short block, and gaskets which are a couple hundred bucks! I would probably be better off finding a use 2.5L.
Though I went today to the Salvage yard and they found a lot of NON SVT 2.5L and they are $750-1000 , How much LESS HP do these have than the SVT version and Can I swap some parts from my current engine to make it an SVT????
OR should I try to find an actual SVT engine whole?
I really appreciate your time in both reading this and replying, I am definately up a creek and, well I have no paddle and my cannoe has a hole in it.

Thanks again

#1187690 02/17/05 10:33 PM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
B
CEG'er
Offline
CEG'er
B
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
I am assuming the labor to put it back together would be by you! Let the machine shop check out the block, rods, crank, etc. and determine what needs to be done.

My opinion is that buying a used 2.5L engine is kinda like buying a pig in a poke. You end up with similar issues.

I rebuilt my 2.5 and reused the rods and pistons after being miked, etc. I have about 25k on the rebuilt engine and tranny and all is running strong......knock on wood.....

Bob


An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
#1187691 02/18/05 01:52 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
B
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
B
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 103
Originally posted by btrautman:
My opinion is that buying a used 2.5L engine is kinda like buying a pig in a poke. You end up with similar issues.
Bob



Well lets cross our fingers thats not the case, but I believe most of the engines one would pick up from a salvage yard are from good running cars that have had collision damage and they end up parting out the rest of the car and box up the engine in a crate and put it on a shelf. Then again, any engine you buy that your not familiar with is,"like a box of chocolates..."

However, I am very curious if a 99' engine will work in my 98' and if so are there any mods or changes which must be made at all??
I also noticed that for the 98' year model there are pre and post August production dates, which apparently have differences??

Anyone?

Thanks

#1187692 02/18/05 03:00 PM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
T
I have no life
Offline
I have no life
T
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
You shouldn't any problems using any of the engines from 98-00. The late 99-00 have returnless fuel but that doesn't have anything to do with the actual long block itself.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  horseydug_dup1, Ray_dup1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5