|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453
CEG\'er
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453 |
I've been reading up alot on replacing my timing belt ('98 4 cylinder), and I've also found and read Cris'pus's post, but I still have a question or two.
i have read that:
"If one cam is slighty out, you can use a 1" wrench on the cam (the areas not round) to get the metal strip to fit."
Do you turn the cam like this with the original belt still on? I didn't think it would turn with the belt on and the sprockets not loose.
Also, when might I have to loosen the cam shaft
sprocket(s).
I've read about it, but I'm still a little confused as to when and exactly why the sprocket would need to be loosened.
I really want to do this job, but I wanna make sure I get it right.
Thanks in advance! -Peter
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 750
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 750 |
I don't think you need to worry about that. I've removed my timing belt 4 or 5 times (autozone water pumps  ) but never had such an issue. You might have to do 2 full rotations to get it right though. T.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408 |
If the old belt is intact, mark the cam pulleys and you won't have a problem.
When going from scratch, the cams should be locked in place first. Then the exhaust cam pulley must be rotated to the advanced position of the VCT (clockwise) while the belt is put on. If the belt is put on while the exhaust cam's pulley is in the retarded position the timing will be out.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453 |
Thanks for the replies guys!
So basically i prob'ly won't have to turn the camshafts?
That sounds fine with me, but in the event that I would have to turn a camshaft slightly however, i still don't know if I would have to take the old belt off first and/or have the sprocket loose.
Hopefully i won't have to mess with that stuff though.
-Peter
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 36
New CEG\'er
|
|
New CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 36 |
If one slot is just slightly off, you should be able to re-orient it without changing the belt to gear relationship by a whole tooth, if it's further off than that then your belt has slipped, at that point you would be forced to remove the belt tension to get it re-oriented. You would only need loosen the sprocket bolt if you were doing more extensive engine dissassembly.
The book does no says so, but if the tool fits without turning the sprocket it indicates your timing is correct, meaning you are in good shape (just doing preventive maintenance). In that case, I used modeler's paint to mark one tooth & one land on each cam sprocket (a wide an arc as possible), and one tooth & one land on the crank sprocket. Then I transferred the paint marks to the new belt (double or triple check the teeth count). This is sort of an "insurance policy" that will tell you that you have everything back in the right orientation.
Last edited by big_mack; 02/05/05 09:26 PM.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453 |
Originally posted by big_mack:
If one slot is just slightly off, you should be able to re-orient it without changing the belt to gear relationship by a whole tooth, if it's further off than that then your belt has slipped, at that point you would be forced to remove the belt tension to get it re-oriented. You would only need loosen the sprocket bolt if you were doing more extensive engine dissassembly.
The book does no says so, but if the tool fits without turning the sprocket it indicates your timing is correct, meaning you are in good shape (just doing preventive maintenance). In that case, I used modeler's paint to mark one tooth & one land on each cam sprocket (a wide an arc as possible), and one tooth & one land on the crank sprocket. Then I transferred the paint marks to the new belt (double or triple check the teeth count). This is sort of an "insurance policy" that will tell you that you have everything back in the right orientation.
Thanks a ton!!
That's exactly what I was wondering, you answered my question better than I asked it.
Good idea about marking the timing belt with paint, i think I'll do that.
Thanks again!! You guys all rock!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453 |
Originally posted by Rogerm60:
If the old belt is intact, mark the cam pulleys and you won't have a problem.
When going from scratch, the cams should be locked in place first. Then the exhaust cam pulley must be rotated to the advanced position of the VCT (clockwise) while the belt is put on. If the belt is put on while the exhaust cam's pulley is in the retarded position the timing will be out.
How do you know when you are at the advanced postition of the VCT?
Are there marks, or some sort of indication on the cam pulley that tells you?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 54
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 54 |
i had to do a timing belt on my 98 tour. i mark a line between the 2 sprockets then from each sprocket to the valve cover. pain the butt to realign one sprocket cause it will pop out of postion like a half a tooth. so ull have to muscle it down or up until ur marks line up. try putting the belt on from the top and remove the tensioner. makes the job a little easier. HtR
Price of body kit so far...$3
Price of wing...$20
Feeling that everyone is staring at your contour...PRICELESS
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453 |
Originally posted by hightechredneck:
i had to do a timing belt on my 98 tour. i mark a line between the 2 sprockets then from each sprocket to the valve cover. pain the butt to realign one sprocket cause it will pop out of postion like a half a tooth. so ull have to muscle it down or up until ur marks line up. try putting the belt on from the top and remove the tensioner. makes the job a little easier. HtR
Thanks for the reply!
After I took my old timing belt off, I accidently removed the tool that I had stuck in the cam shaft slots, and the exhaust cam and sprocket moved half a tooth counter clockwise.
I figured I'd hafta loosen the sprocket and move it back a half a tooth to the right before it would work, because I can rotate the cam to straighten it up, but the sprocket doesn't move back with the cam.
Can't do anything for now though, cuz I got the wrong parts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
