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Left front end was getting noise,jecked up the car wig the the rotor,oop oh.. there is about half inch of play there  now how much I m looking at for replacing the bearing?
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depends on who you go through....dealership cost me about 385.00 dollars a couple of years ago to have my front pass side done, now it needs to be replaced again,so i think i'll change it myself this time the bearing are pretty cheap from a parts store, like 35-40 dollars
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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The bearings need to be pressed in with a hydrualic press. This is not something that you can do at home, unless you own a mechanics shop.
Your options are:
Take to an independant mechanic, cost me about 150 to have the drivers side replaced, with other people having about the same luck.
option two:
buy the new bearing (~$40-$50) and remove the old hub assembly by undoing the balljoint pinch bolt and tie rod ends, etc, take the entire hub assembly to a shop and they can press the old one out and new one in, then replace the assembly yourself.
You are probably looking at an hour of labor from the shop this way (unless they don't charge the full hour, since it doesn't take an hour)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by Ray: option two:
buy the new bearing (~$40-$50) and remove the old hub assembly by undoing the balljoint pinch bolt and tie rod ends, etc, take the entire hub assembly to a shop and they can press the old one out and new one in, then replace the assembly yourself.
Just FYI, in my experience they usually charge $20-25 for this. Removing and reinstalling the knuckle can be a real pain in the neck though, it'll take you significant amount of time and effort.
Tiv
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What is a pain about it?
Once the tire is removed, remove the brake caliper (two bolts on the inside of the caliper) and remove the rotor.
Then, simply undo the tie-rod ends, and remove the pinch bolt from the ball joint. (use a long bar to get leverage on the control arm and press downwards until the balljoint pops out. remove the bolt that holds the knuckle to the strut and slide it off/down..
I removed both sides in under an hour.. that is including tires/calipers, everything.. Getting the control arm low enough to pop out the ball joint was the hardest thing, I will say that much. but unless they are rusted together (or some other equally unanticipated problem) then you shouldn't have much trouble..
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Quote:
remove the bolt that holds the knuckle to the strut and slide it off/down..
Would it just slide off or I will have to hammer it down like hell?
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To tap it off with a hammer. And rmember you need to push the driveshaft out too. I recommend you use an air hammer to do this - and you will need new driveshaft hub nuts to reinstall the driveshaft when you're done.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Excellent point, Stazi..
The axle hub nut (or "locking spindle nut" according to parts stores) is a one time use nut and cannot be re-used.
Torque to 208 lb-ft.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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