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#1157714 01/16/05 04:59 AM
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I have a problem that is driving me crazy. I have done several search's and found a few threads I thought might pertain to my problem, but alas nothing has helped.
Here's my story and the things I've attempted to fix my problem, hopefully one of you guy's can help.
I have a 2000 SVT which I have owned since it rolled off the dealers lot. The car has been flawless up until 3-4 weeks ago when it developed what seemed to be a dead miss in the engine. Shortly after that the CEL came on and stayed on, however a couple of days later the CEL would start flashing rapidly then stop for awhile but stay constantly illuminated then start flashing again.
My first thoughts were that the plugs needed changing(still had the factory originals) because after all the car now has 41,000 miles on it. I purchased a set of Autolite PP764's gaped them at .054 and still had what I percieved was a miss. Next I thought the plug wires was worth investigating because they were the factory originals as well. I set out to find the bad wire by removing each wire one at a time to see which one would not affect the engines idle thus telling me which wire was bad. Well each and every one of the wires would most deffenetly cause a dead miss that affected the engines idle, that started to make think that what I percieved as a dead miss originaly was actually not a dead miss. I checked the plug wires like this 3 times with the same results each time.
While I was standing there scratching my head I noticed white fluffy corosion on my pos battery terminal, so I thought what the heck and cleaned the terminal. I had the battery disconnected for 10-15 minutes while cleaning the connections and pondering just what might be the problem. I then reconnected the battery and started the motor, geuss what. The miss was completely gone and the engine was running just as good as it ever has. I then took the car for a test drive and it was running very good but after 7 minutes of driving the miss returned and shortly thereafter the CEL starts blinking like mad again. However this time the CEL did not act like it did previously, now it would rapidly blink many times then just go out for a few minutes then start blinking again. I pull back into the shop and remove the battery cable again waiting 10 minutes before reconnecting it. I start the motor back up and it was running perfect again so off I go on another test drive only to have the miss return again after 7 minutes of driving with the CEL blinking rapidly at me again so back to the shop again I go. Now I'm standing there looking under the hood when I notice that the battery has been leaking all along the back edge of the top, not recently but it had been sometime in the past because of all the white powdery residue it had left.
I then buy a new battery and install it however this time when starting the motor the miss is still there and resetting the comp does not make it go away anylonger, plus the CEL does not flash or come back on no matter how long I drive it.
Still not convinced that the original plug wires are good I buy a new set of Autolite Professional wires and install them, the problem is still there. I'm really stumped at this point because after pulling the plug wires 1 at a time it just does'nt seem so much like a miss to me anymore, but instead more like a sputter.
The original plugs I removed looked perfectly normal and none of them looked as though they were not firing. I realy do not know what think now as I still have that miss or sputtering after changing all those parts but no longer have a CEL either blinking or just staying on.
Hopefully someone here has some idea's that will help before I snatch all the hair out of my head.

#1157715 01/16/05 05:59 PM
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when ur light blinks thats the computer telling you the engine is missing. possible coil pack?


2002 Cougar 2.5 duratec/ mtx-75 85,0000 Mondeo ST-200 wheels/BFG KDW NT black/black Spec Stage 1 Torsen T-2 Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust apexi s-afc II K&N FIPK
#1157716 01/16/05 06:06 PM
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Why don't you have the code read, that would really help.
You can't guess and change parts on your car, it will get very expensive and frustating.
Get the code, and them i will give you the procedure to find your problem and possibles problems.

Nic.


Contour 99 MTX V6 fully loaded, stock with 110000km. Illuminated sunroof switch. About to do the mystique rear dome light conversion with eyeball dome light.
#1157717 01/16/05 06:06 PM
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i concur


2002 Cougar 2.5 duratec/ mtx-75 85,0000 Mondeo ST-200 wheels/BFG KDW NT black/black Spec Stage 1 Torsen T-2 Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust apexi s-afc II K&N FIPK
#1157718 01/16/05 07:50 PM
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Thanks for all the replies so far. I forgot to mention that I did check the coilpack and its reading good, the car also drinks gas like its going out of style but the plugs look good.
Would there be any codes stored if I had disconnected the battery and no longer have a CEL of any kind? Thats where I'm at now, I do not have any type of CEL but the miss or sputter is still there. I'm very familiar with working on OBD1 systems but this OBD2 is over my head and I do not have the equipment needed to pull the codes myself. I can get Autozone to pull the codes for me for free but I'm kinda affraid to drive the car the 20 miles needed to get there. I have an extended service contract on the car but since the original warranty has expired and I'm now on the extended plan the dealership does'nt work with me any longer and we usualy end up in a big fight over things.
I have the $50 deductable but then they always charge me an additional $60 just to pull the codes, because they claim the service contract does'nt pay for code pulling. I do not know what to do. I need this car badly by 3:00 AM Wendsday morning because I have a 180 mile trip to make to get my wife to the Dr because she's seriously ill and I have to get her there if I have to walk and pack her on my back.
I've been working on this thing for 3 days until the wee hours of the morning and I'm very tired and not thinking too clearly right now. With my relationship with the dealership now theres no way they'll get it in and out in time for the trip to the Dr.
Would codes still be in the comp since I have disconnected the battery and I no longer have anytype of CEL?.....if so I'll chance it and drive it to Autozone to pull the codes.
Thanks to everyone for the replies, I appreciate it but I'm getting very desperate as time is running out for me.

#1157719 01/16/05 10:06 PM
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i would check the fuel filter,pump and try cleaning the mass air flow meter, could be something that easy.


"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes. --93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
#1157720 01/17/05 07:25 PM
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a light stutter could be the injectors as well.


do the simple things as mentioned: clean the air filter, TB and MAF. Run some injector cleaner through the car and see what happenes.

BTW: flashing CEL means the car has encountered a misfire condition in one or more cylinders, meaning that the car may have been running lean (lack of fuel), another pointer to an injector or fuel pressure/pump.


Ray


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


#1157721 01/17/05 08:55 PM
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Thank you Ray the injectors have been my next suspect.
I've been looking at the old plugs condition and have discovered that the front bank of the engine is running alittle leaner than the rear bank. All 3 plugs from the front bank are whiteish looking which seems pretty normal compaired to plugs from other late model engines. However the rear banks plugs are brownish in color which indicates to me that the front bank is running leaner than the rear.
None of the plugs are caked up with deposites which would indicate a serious problem, but instead look very normal for plugs with 40,000 miles on them other than there color.
I have concluded that this is not a dead miss but instead a sputter that seems to randomly happening with several cylinders as I cannot pinpoint it to 1 cylinder by testing.
I've given up on having the car by wed. morning and have made other arrangements. However I would like to pursue this further in an attempt to arm myself with as much info as I can gather before I head to the stealership.
My problem with the stealership began when I took the car in because it would stall out and not restart unless you cranked it several times and sometimes for long periods of time. I searched this forum and found a TSB for recalibrating the ECU to solve the stalling and hard start problem. The stealership informed me that I would have to pay for having the TSB performed because as they claimed it was not covered by warranty, no amount of talking with them would change there minds. I went home and called Fords customer service and told them about my experiance. Ford agreed with me on the issue and called up the stealership and told them to recalibrate the ECU and replace my melted battery cables at no cost to me under the warranty.(my cables had melted the insulation abit at the battery conn. because of the excess cranking) Well since that took place all I have to do is walk in the service dept. door and all the service people leave the desk and go hide leaving me standing there for sometimes up to 20 minutes in hopes that I will leave. I never did get upset and have any heated words with any of these people at anytime, but this is how I'm treated now. I really need all the info I can muster before I go there because I know I'm gonna get 0 assistance from any of them.
Thanks for your help.

#1157722 01/18/05 04:30 AM
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Wow, thats messed up. I would try getting in touch with the owner of the dealership and complaining about their service personell.


98 Contour SVT (soon to be reborn) 2000 GMC Envoy... Screw you guys, I like it. 89' Mustang 5.0 (Just bolt on's... for now)
#1157723 01/18/05 05:43 PM
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Get those codes read. It also looks like you'll need to rent/borrow a car for a day to get the wife to the Dr.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.

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