Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Electrical Problem. Drivin 300 miles tomorrow.

Alright, so here is the deal. One morning I wake up and the battery is dead. I jump start the car and go about my business. I go christmas shopping and make a number of stops with no problems. The next morning, however, the battery is dead again.

That is kinda where I stand now. The car starts fine if it sits for a short period, but the moment you let it sit for a couple hours or more the battery dies. To the best of my knowledge, everything is turned off in the car.

Furthermore, it no seems that I am having additional electrical problems. The radio doesn't respond, neither do the dome lights or heater. The only thing that works is the power windows and locks. (not sure about the headlights).

Anyway, does anyone have thoughts or suggestions? I'm suppose to drive 300 miles away for Christmas so I need to figure something out. Unfortunately it is 0 degrees outside today. I can bring my jumpstart unit but that only works a couple times per charge and a radio would be nice anyway.

The car is a 1995 contour with the 4cyl engine and is stock.

Could be two things:

1) Your battery is so old that its cells can no longer hold charge when the temperature gets that cold (what is CCA and CA rating?) You could have also bought a battery that is not rated for that cold of a temperature though I think that is impossible now a days.

2) You ARE having a voltage drain from somewhere. Check your trunk and glove box lights as they are very problematic and the sensors can go bad leaving it on all the time.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? Hell, even a stock system can drain an old battery. I used to drive a Civic Si (Laugh all you want, I got 33 mpg) and after I went on a weekend trip (3 days later) I got home and the car wouldnt budge from me arming the Honda alarm system.

Take it to Oreilly's and have them do a charge system test also to make sure your alternator is working fine.

Thanks for the comments. I was planning on going to Checker to do the battery tests etc after work. I'm kinda confused as to why the radio, dome lights, heater, won't work even when the car is running. Anyway, the battery is a Durlast raited at 610 cold crank amps and 90 reserve capacity.

I'll double check for the voltage drain as well. I havent used the glove box but I have used the truck.

Thanks again

the radio and dome lights work off the same fuse if i recall...

Not according to my manual (One fuse is for "Courtesy" lights.) However, I do plan to check the fuses anyway. Also, I suddenly remembered there is a Napa auto parts store not 100 yards from where I work. I went over there and their guage indicated a new battery was needed. I guess this battery was special because it was $115. They did not check the alternator but I'm optimistic it is just the battery. Thanks a lot guys!

My internal fuse box fried about 3 hours after buying my car. It was a design issue fixed later but it was a "hanging" fuse box where the main power wire would slip out shorting out near everything in the fuse box (including radio, lights, clock, etc.)

I never noticed a smell, it all just stopped working. So make sure your fuse box isnt black and crusty now

did the radio work before you jumpstarted your car. also do your intermintient wipers work properly. because most people often jump start a car from another running car. this is VERY bad to do. the problem is that the alternator is not designed to power a starter. most alternators can only put out about 110-150 amps but the starter uses more like 600-700 amps so it needs a good battery. the problem is that the alternator will kick out on the good car and then start back up at the exact same time as the car that is getting a boast. this causes a voltage problem and can some times take out computer boards. i had this happen to me a few years ago and ended up geting my stereo and a few other computer boards replaced.