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dmase Offline OP
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I am painting the calipers on my 00csvt and cannot seperate the caliper from teh ebrake cable to fully remove the caliper to prep and paint. I need some advice as to removing the ebrake cable form the rear of the rear caliper.

thanks
dan


I agree. You're an idiot because: 1) you went so fast on an open road, and 2) you came here and posted about it. And like Horse said, who cares about maxing through 5th. It's meant as an overdrive gear, not a race gear.
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http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=798242&Forum=trouble&Words=parking%20brake&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=1month&Main=797858&Search=true#Post798242

check that thread, has a picture..
see that arrow that has "new rubber boot"
to the right, first off you have to depress the spring with a screwdriver on that U shaped thing. you need to do that to take off the top part of ebrake cable.

to the left of the rubber boot, that metal piece by the caliper that's shaped like teeth... you need to use needle nose pliers or something to press the teeth in the hole as you twist and pull on the cable... PITA but will come out eventually..

that ought to get your cables free
post pics of your paint job later..


00 CSVT #390
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dmase Offline OP
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if you are still looking irda, I got the teeth off and the cable loose but cannot get past the rubber grommit that protects the tip of the cable through the whole after the teeth. If you dont get what I am saying, look back at the picture and see the rubber grommit after the teeth, i cannot get that through the hole to completely remove the caliper completly in my hand.

kind of frustrated, fronts were easy as hell.

thanks
dan


I agree. You're an idiot because: 1) you went so fast on an open road, and 2) you came here and posted about it. And like Horse said, who cares about maxing through 5th. It's meant as an overdrive gear, not a race gear.
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ahh..

i don't really recommend this, but after doing the following, i still haven't had frozen calipers..


the rubber boot, close to the hole before it starts folding... i had to cut that piece off because there was no way for me to install the cable with that rubber piece on. absolutely NO room.... so that 5cm or so, i had to cut off as much as i didn't want to. the rubber boot still covers the cable area, but isn't sealed like it should be..

the folded parts were not easy but if you have room to move the cable around (might have to pull off some more parts of the cable from the body of car, they're secured with round plastic) you could try twisting and twisting to slowly get 1 layer at a time.. while pulling on the rubber..
i agree it's a PITA..

anyone do something else??


00 CSVT #390
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dmase Offline OP
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in phoenix arizona I really dont have to worry about freezing or too much moisture and especially both at the same time, so that may be my best choice right now. But I have to believe that the factory or brake shops have a way to remove without cutting that rubber?

damn ford

dan


I agree. You're an idiot because: 1) you went so fast on an open road, and 2) you came here and posted about it. And like Horse said, who cares about maxing through 5th. It's meant as an overdrive gear, not a race gear.
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but don't cut away all the rubber, just the small portion at bottom is what i couldnt' fit through.. not sure about yours going out. you should be able to stretch most of the rubber part to barely fit through

you should prob wait if other people have done something about this, i hated to cut that thing since it must have been there for a reason..


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I painted mine without removing them. Remove the wheel for access, clean the caliper with degreaser (works better than brake clean for this), mask as needed with newspaper and masking tape, and paint away.

I did not bother to paint the surfaces that could not be seen with the wheel on. I did paint the visable part of the caliper bracket as well. I really am not concerned about how it looks to someone that is changing the oil when the car is on a hoist. If you do care about the back side, there is adequate room to paint them back there on the car too.

I chose to paint them silver, which most nearly matches the factory dacromat finish that came on the calipers, brackets, and rotors on the SVT. It is also a match for the factory wheels.

Others colors would also look great depending on the color of the car and your taste preferences. Black is universally great looking and in my mind red looks great on some cars.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
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dmase Offline OP
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well i ended up having to touch up after putting them back on and did mask and cover parts which seemed to work well, but for me I really wanted to paint the entire thing. I went with red and so far it looks good, I think I need to find a better way to do the passenger side rear, but so far teh driver side looks nice. The front looks the best because I was able to take it apart completely and soak in paint thinner and wire brush the [censored] out of it to get a good paint surface.

I decided to go with red and it looks nice better than I thought it would with the green color they painted the svt. I was a little worried but turned out nice. I will add pictures when I am done.

thanks and if there are anyone out there that have figured out how to take the rears off completely then I would be very grateful to learn how you acomplished that.

dan


I agree. You're an idiot because: 1) you went so fast on an open road, and 2) you came here and posted about it. And like Horse said, who cares about maxing through 5th. It's meant as an overdrive gear, not a race gear.

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