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Joined: Oct 2004
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Hi all.
My rad fan is dead, yet the temp never goes above the N-O on the gauge, despite the engine feeling hot. So, time to open a vein and spend some more cash on my money pit. (At the rate I'm going, it might be cheaper to have bought a new Ford 500- I think I've spent about that much! )

All the indications seem to be (from searching a LOT in many forums) that my WP is fading. So I need a new one. Even if its not failing, its not bad preventive maintenance. I'll also replace the t-stat and flush the system if its open anyway. Oh, and fix the fan.

But, where do I get a pump with the right impeller in this region relatively cheaply? I believe its just the impeller part I need to replace, but Ford will only sell the full pump, for about $160+ tax.

Also, anything else I should swap out while I'm in there?

Cheers,
T


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Don't be suprised by the Temp guage only reading @ N or O. This is pretty normal on the Duratec. The Zetec on the other hand is known for reading much higher. Rob and I tested mine with the OBDII and found that the fan came on around 215f. As for the fan being dead. I thought for sure there was a recall pertaining to this. May be worth a little investigative work. Sorry to hear your having problems still. Hope you can get them resolved.


Green 96 mystique gs 4cyl mtx 16.9 in the 1/4 mile @102500 miles 95SE in Midnight Red MTX MSDS headers and y-pipe SVT exhaust SVT UIM Optimized se TB. Full pre 98 SVT body kit 15.741 @ 87.73mph :)
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Thanks, Mark.
Not my finest week. That mysterious stalling came back last weekend. I WD40'd everything and after a while, it started. Well, it did it again on Tuesday morning, but the WD40 didn't work. So, Helen and I had a fun time at 7am pushing it out ogf the drive to get her car out so I could go to work. (I had to frisk her for a lighter, in case she made good on her promise to set fire to it! It is now back in its 'spot' in front of the carport.

I think the stalling might very well be the crankshaft sensor, and at 40 bucks, its an easy fix, and if not, well, its only 40 bucks. I'm even gonna do it myself (gulp).

Anyhoo, the rad fan is a problem (who's the electrical expert again?), and without that, I would imagine it should be running a little hotter than normal, even in the cool weather. The hoses all get hot though, so I think there is a reasonable circulation, but I'm not sure if its enough. Hence the concern. Its not an urgent thing, but I would feel happier if it was done. So, where do I get a good pump cheap? (fnaar fnarr oo...err sounds a bit rude!)

BTW, whats the 411 on your emissions issue?

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I think Mark is correct about a recall and if I remember correctly it was for the wiring and stuff. You should look into that and maybe save yourself some money. As for the WP I think you can get them at UAP but it was my understanding that WP's don't slowly go bad, they either work or they don't. I would look into the wiring thing before doing anything else. Why fix something that isn't broke but thats just me and what do I know.


1998 BLK SVT CONTOUR #2980 of 6535 395,000(ish) km (and counting) SVTOA-TORONTO Chapter Director www.svtoa-toronto.ca
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Originally posted by lauraq:
I would look into the wiring thing before doing anything else. Why fix something that isn't broke but thats just me and what do I know.



Quite a bit, judging from your other posts!! Okay, sucking up to CEG members session is over

Originally posted by lauraq:
I think Mark is correct about a recall and if I remember correctly it was for the wiring and stuff. You should look into that and maybe save yourself some money. As for the WP I think you can get them at UAP but it was my understanding that WP's don't slowly go bad, they either work or they don't.




I found out about the recall. Firstly, its not outstanding on my car, according to Ford. (Got all the outstanding recalls done when I bought the car, including that stoopid clunking spring fix for the front suspension, so I have now a lot of faith in Ford! )

In any event, I think it's been done already, since there is a blue resistor (?) block at the bottom drivers side of the radiator, which I believe was the fix.

I haven't the know-how or facilities to do a proper test so far, but I think I know what I'm supposed to do to check it, according to the searches.
If I ask some questions in other forums, the search/tech nazis would be all over me! I'm not dumb with house wiring, or wiring in general, but car wiring diagnostics is something else entirely, and new to me. 'Testing voltages' is fine advice (I know that), but I need more along the noob lines of 'where to put the probes' kind of advice, and some of those guys (not the Eastern Canucks of course) get shirty with that level of inexperience, like 'take it to a dealer' or 'you're too dumb to own a car' kinda thing.

So, to test I think I need to do the following:
First, I need to see if the fans still spin easily, with a finger or a screwdriver. They do.
Second, I need to check the fuses and relays. Well, the big 60A fuse is still fine, but I don't know how to check the relays electrically. Are they all the same, and interchangeable? If so, I could swap them over to test them.
Next, I need to hook up the fan direct to the battery, to confirm it still turns right?
Then it becomes a test of continuity for each wire in the harness. Given that the cable casing is tissue paper, I really dont wanna futz with it too much.
Finally, if all that is right, I think there's a temp sender for the fan under the UIM, is there not? And that scares me. In any event, though the AC is empty, it should still spin the passenger side fan when its on, right? (It doesn't now)

I was gonna wimp out, and get someone else to do it/help me, either professionally for cash, or for the challenge (anyone up for it - beer/pizza is on me?) or a combination.

Either way, cool weather helps the rad cool the coolant at the moment, but I want to address this before it gets warmer in spring. Just don't wanna do any damage if it masking a weak pump.

BTW, on some forums, I heard that a pump can 'sort of' fail, and still circulate, such as a badly cracked and therefore partially spinning impellar. Does that make sense?

Cheers,
T

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You are right the pump can "sort of fail". A fin or 2 or more can break down and not move the normal volume of coolant. This is more uncommon though compared to the usual catastrophic failure most of us have had. As for your list it sounds like you are well on your way to solving the problem yourself. Rob aka SVTCANUK is the wiring expert. He may be able to assist you better with your questions.

As for the Emmisions. My vehicle is plated and that is all that counts right now despite the whole curb incident outlined in my "I pulled a Keioth post." I am still running rich and have some work ahead to solving that problem. Asap.


Green 96 mystique gs 4cyl mtx 16.9 in the 1/4 mile @102500 miles 95SE in Midnight Red MTX MSDS headers and y-pipe SVT exhaust SVT UIM Optimized se TB. Full pre 98 SVT body kit 15.741 @ 87.73mph :)
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Originally posted by lauraq:
it was my understanding that WP's don't slowly go bad, they either work or they don't. I would look into the wiring thing before doing anything else. Why fix something that isn't broke




Well, when the WP does fail you're likely to warp a head and/or pop a gasket at which point, for the 2.5l motors anyway, the car's pretty much toasted.

I also suspect that they do indeed slowly go bad, loosing fins over time 'till the whole, now unbalanced, lump comes apart.

I'd say getting the thing replaced as soon as you've got any doubts about it is money well spent!

Cheers,
--
Terry McG

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Yeah, that was my thought. It may be fine, but its Russian Roulette, and for a hundred or so bucks, good insurance against a blown engine. I just spent 4000 on a busted tranny (dont ask!), so I cant afford another big ticket.

Lets call it 'aggressive preventative maintenance', eh?

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Good luck in solving all thees problems. Sometimes they just endless. There are a lot of good knowledgeable people here that are always willing to lend a hand.


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Originally posted by timstour:
Yeah, that was my thought. It may be fine, but its Russian Roulette, and for a hundred or so bucks, good insurance against a blown engine. I just spent 4000 on a busted tranny (dont ask!), so I cant afford another big ticket.

Lets call it 'aggressive preventative maintenance', eh?


4 grand on a tranny wholy crap....everytime i changed my tranny (3 times )it cost 3 grand....

wesley


1999 SVT black And a Blond Haired Blue eyes girlfriend. How can it get any better?
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