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Hi,
1995 Contour 4 cylinder with auto trans.
Had it about 2 years. Car has never idled good but ran perfect at highway speeds where I usually drive so that was okay. Don't use Contour often. Maybe twice a month and do 20-40 mile highway trips with it.
Noticed last month on highway an "apparant" loss of power. It was subtle, but when I pushed on the gas pedal engine did not seem to respond in its normal peppy way. Car still ran smooth and sounded normal. If the power loss problem existed at all, it seemed to go away.
Maybe I would have ignored it totally or not really think much of it, but during the same trip the Check Engine LIght (CEL) came on for maybe 5-8 seconds, but then went off again.
Last night on the highway coming home it happened again. That same "apparent" loss of power even when it downshifted, but then it seemed to kick back in. Like I say, it is subtle. Car does not slow down or miss or stall. Engine light came on and went off about 3 times. Then when I pulled into my driveway the Check Engine Light came on and stayed on.
Does this ring a bell for you experts? Any thoughts or advice? I don't take my cars into the dealer and do my own work. But this "modern" car is new to me. I know there are codes to check, but I have never done that before. It is winter here now and not fun to work outside. Should I park the car and not use it until the problem is resolved?
Thanks much!
1995 Contour GL "GEX"
2.0 Liter 4-banger
ATX
162,500 miles
Stock except for two '89 Tempo wheel covers & two VERY COOL cosmic looking '76 Toyota Corona wheel cover
Full size spare
No rust
Green
Purchase price: $500
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,910
Hard-core CEG'er
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Joined: Dec 2001
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not sure if I can cross this info of to ta zetec from a duratec but when my father had the cel turning on and off in his 95 on the highway it turned out to be a O2 sensor you can read your owns code by using this information and with the lsit of codes here get the code and let us know what it is and someone should be able to tell you what is going on and what to do to fix it
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 82
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 82 |
Thanks.
Yes, it looks like I have to become a code-reader. It doesn't look too hard if you get all the pauses and various details right. Hopefully we will get a little warmer weather.
But I wonder if I should still use the car or park it?
Last edited by JohnHoward; 12/05/04 04:42 PM.
1995 Contour GL "GEX"
2.0 Liter 4-banger
ATX
162,500 miles
Stock except for two '89 Tempo wheel covers & two VERY COOL cosmic looking '76 Toyota Corona wheel cover
Full size spare
No rust
Green
Purchase price: $500
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 392
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 392 |
JohnHoward:
Thanks.
Yes, it looks like I have to become a code-reader. It doesn't look too hard if you get all the pauses and various details right. Hopefully we will get a little warmer weather.
But I wonder if I should still use the car or park it?
You can't have the code for a CEL by checking the blinks the CEL do. It's like an airbag light or ABS, too many possibilities. You have to buy a code-reader or have someone read your code and tell us.
Nic.
Contour 99 MTX V6 fully loaded, stock with 110000km. Illuminated sunroof switch. About to do the mystique rear dome light conversion with eyeball dome light.
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Posts: 82
CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Nic_ContourSE99:
Quote:
Thanks.
Yes, it looks like I have to become a code-reader. It doesn't look too hard if you get all the pauses and various details right. Hopefully we will get a little warmer weather.
But I wonder if I should still use the car or park it?
You can't have the code for a CEL by checking the blinks the CEL do. It's like an airbag light or ABS, too many possibilities. You have to buy a code-reader or have someone read your code and tell us.
Nic.
Thanks. Yes, I get that part of it. On the 95 model it seems that you can retrieve the codes with an analog voltmeter. But I want to read up on the process and familiarize myself with all it involves first. This website is a great help plus I have a couple books and the Haynes manual.
Still don't know whether or not a CEL that stays on is serious enough to stop driving the car. That loss of power did seem like a real thing (altho subtle) and I'd hate to be stranded with a dead car on the highway.
Or don't the CEL problems mean imminent found-on-road-dead trouble?
1995 Contour GL "GEX"
2.0 Liter 4-banger
ATX
162,500 miles
Stock except for two '89 Tempo wheel covers & two VERY COOL cosmic looking '76 Toyota Corona wheel cover
Full size spare
No rust
Green
Purchase price: $500
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408 |
Originally posted by Nic_ContourSE99:
You can't have the code for a CEL by checking the blinks the CEL do. It's like an airbag light or ABS, too many possibilities. You have to buy a code-reader or have someone read your code and tell us.
Nic.
The paperclip method works just fine, in fact I had so many issues when I got my 95 that I rigged a dash switch to the connector so I could check the codes from the pilot seat at any time (comes in handy during a storm).
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,910
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,910 |
Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Originally posted by Nic_ContourSE99:
You can't have the code for a CEL by checking the blinks the CEL do. It's like an airbag light or ABS, too many possibilities. You have to buy a code-reader or have someone read your code and tell us.
Nic.
The paperclip method works just fine, in fact I had so many issues when I got my 95 that I rigged a dash switch to the connector so I could check the codes from the pilot seat at any time (comes in handy during a storm).
for a 95 you can read the codes from the cel light, as the instructions say use a jumper and a test light is best, you can read the codes from the test light or the cel itself
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 82
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Posts: 82 |
Originally posted by brapple:
Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Originally posted by Nic_ContourSE99:
You can't have the code for a CEL by checking the blinks the CEL do. It's like an airbag light or ABS, too many possibilities. You have to buy a code-reader or have someone read your code and tell us.
Nic.
The paperclip method works just fine, in fact I had so many issues when I got my 95 that I rigged a dash switch to the connector so I could check the codes from the pilot seat at any time (comes in handy during a storm).
for a 95 you can read the codes from the cel light, as the instructions say use a jumper and a test light is best, you can read the codes from the test light or the cel itself
I'm not sure what you mean by reading the codes from the CEL itself. Could you please explain that?
I take it that the "paperclip" method means you stick the paperclip into the under-the-hood Test Hookup #4 terminal, correct?
If I don't have test-light, I can use an analog voltmeter on a '95, correct?
Like I say, I want to understand all this stuff first and it is sort of confusing to me.
1995 Contour GL "GEX"
2.0 Liter 4-banger
ATX
162,500 miles
Stock except for two '89 Tempo wheel covers & two VERY COOL cosmic looking '76 Toyota Corona wheel cover
Full size spare
No rust
Green
Purchase price: $500
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,910
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,910 |
Originally posted by JohnHoward:
Originally posted by brapple:
Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Originally posted by Nic_ContourSE99:
You can't have the code for a CEL by checking the blinks the CEL do. It's like an airbag light or ABS, too many possibilities. You have to buy a code-reader or have someone read your code and tell us.
Nic.
The paperclip method works just fine, in fact I had so many issues when I got my 95 that I rigged a dash switch to the connector so I could check the codes from the pilot seat at any time (comes in handy during a storm).
for a 95 you can read the codes from the cel light, as the instructions say use a jumper and a test light is best, you can read the codes from the test light or the cel itself
I'm not sure what you mean by reading the codes from the CEL itself. Could you please explain that?
I take it that the "paperclip" method means you stick the paperclip into the under-the-hood Test Hookup #4 terminal, correct?
If I don't have test-light, I can use an analog voltmeter on a '95, correct?
Like I say, I want to understand all this stuff first and it is sort of confusing to me.
yes you can use a volt meter or the test light, as talked about in the link I posted before which is a link from the faq, you use the jumper to put the computer into a test mod and the meter/test light will output the code by blinking the light, if you notice at the some time the meter or test light is moving or blinking the cel light in the dash will flash, you count the flashes like the link discribes and that is your code, once you have the code you look it up with the second link
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,910
Hard-core CEG'er
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CODE TYPES AND FORMATS
TYPES OF CODES
NOTE: Some people have problems distinguishing the different codes. READ THIS SECTION CAREFULLY.
There are drawings of the code formats at the end of this section.
FAST CODES
Fast codes contain the fault information output in the normal slow codes but are output about 100 times faster.
These are the first things output on a Key On Engine Off test.
HARD FAULTS
Hard faults are problems that the computer has located RIGHT NOW. Examples are a sensor out of range or a broken wire (open circuit).
Hard faults are the FIRST set of slow codes output in a Key On Engine Off test. BEFORE the SEPARATOR pulse.
In a Key On Engine Running test, there are ONLY HARD FAULT codes. These are output right after the fast codes.
SEPARATOR PULSE
The separator pulse is a single pulse that indicates the END of hard fault codes and the BEGINNING of memory codes.
It will show up as a code 10 on most digital testers.
MEMORY CODES
Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.
NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.
ENGINE ID
The engine ID in a running test is a series of pulses equal to one half the number of engine cylinders. A 4 cylinder engine ID is 2 pulses, a 6 cylinder ID is 3 pulses and an 8 cylinder ID is 4 pulses. A diesel ID is 5.
GOOSE CODE
A "GOOSE" code (also called a dynamic response test) is output during an engine running test. This is a single pulse to signal you to quickly move the throttle approximately 1/2 way down and release.
NOTE: Not all engines give a "GOOSE" code.
CODE FORMATS
Codes are output as a series of pulses. The following charts show the (approximate) timing of the various code pulses.
NOTE: Two digit codes are shown. Three digit codes have similar timing. It just takes a little practice to distinguish between two and three digit types.
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TESTS
[Top of Page]
NOTE: Vehicle should be fully warmed for all tests.
HOOKUP
See figure below. EEC IV vehicles have two connectors for self testing the system. They are located on the firewall or the left or right front fender. The large connector contains the self test output (STO) and ground (SIG RTN). The small pigtail is the self test input (STI).
KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST
NOTE: On 4.9L trucks with a manual transmission hold the clutch pedal in during this test.
On Diesel engine trucks hold the throttle to the floor during this test.
1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).
4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).
NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.
5. Read hard faults.
6. Separator Pulse.
7. Read memory codes.
8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.
[2 digit codes] [3 digit codes]
KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) TEST
1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or tester if you have one).
4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.
5. Engine I.D. should be output.
6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn.
If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.
7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.
8. Fast Codes are output (ignore).
9. Read codes.
10. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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