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#1120906 12/03/04 08:36 PM
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http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=susp&Number=699331&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=365&fpart=1

I have problems very similiar to those described in the above thread - car seems to jump when going over a bump while taking corners (especially hard rights). It also flexes a lot, but maybe it's always done this... thing is, now it also pops/clunks when the rear passenger side suspension is used. This clunking is my main concern.

So based on extensive searching, it seems like this is most likely the struts on my 2000 svt, and in fact I'm not alone have the RR being the one having issues. First off is there anything else I should be considering as a source for the clunking? Maybe any checks I should do manually (like trying to move the sway bar back and forth with my hands) before buying stuff or having it worked on? I should say it was creaking a lot before (I believe) the strut was completely blown (now it is not creaking), and that the creaking is 99% NOT the ebrake cable, since I used to have squeaking because of the ebrake cable and a local ford dealer did a "permanent" fix for it. My point in mentioning the squeaking is to see if there is anything else I should seriously consider replacing in addition to the struts? (I'm already thinking maybe springs, I'll cover this in a minute)

Assuming the problems IS the struts, I've not seen a general consensus of which strut to buy. Except of course, everyone agrees not to buy KYBs... Some people love the Koni's, some the Bilsteins, recently Spax struts have become available and might be a contender. Here are the struts I'm considering, if I've missed something please let me know. Almost everything is from the BAT catalog, with rounded prices.

(all prices before S&H)
$400 Euro sport struts
--$595 Euro struts + springs, BAT package--
$534 Koni adjustable GB (not from BAT, hopefully will still have open spots!)
--$743 Koni GB ^^ + BAT sport springs, no package discount; different sources--
$360 Sachs Super Gas Struts
$488 Bilstein struts
--$660 Bilstein struts + 25mm sport springs, BAT package--
$380 Spax Sport
$680 Spax Sport Adjustable (I'd just get the Koni's)
--$570 Spax Sport + BAT springs, BAT package--

I am VERY open to suggestions here, especially those including positive/negative experience everyone has had. My default choice out of the list would be the Spax Sport struts, but I'm not tied to these at all. I think adjustable struts would be great, but I'm not sure it'd really be worth the extra cash - how much would I really adjust them anyway? How much do you guys? I don't autocross FYI.
Generally speaking, I am definitely looking for less rocking back and forth and less rolling in the corners. I am okay with a firmer ride but don't want anything bone-jarring and don't really want to lower the car any, though an inch or so downwards wouldn't be the end of the world. I definitely like to drive hard and do not want a setup that will wear out within the next couple years - along these lines I am looking to save future labor costs, so if anything else in the suspension should be replaced in the near future I might as well do it now (bushings, mounts, joints, links, tie rods, control arms, etc). My car has 48k miles (and again, I love driving my car hard, but try to take very good care of it when I can).

I have a quote from a local shop I haven't dealt with before, but came highly recommended from a friend of the owner. I called, spoke to the owner, and got a quote for $170 labor just to replace the struts (I'm happy to pay him for the other work he might be doing). The ford dealer was $400 for labor. My bet is the ford dealer is just trying to rip me off, but is there a chance the local shop doesn't understand what they're getting themselves into? From reading the how-to, it seems like the strut replacement process is quite involved. The shop (which does all kinds of work but specializes in suspension iirc) says they've never worked on an SVT Contour but have done tons and tons of strut jobs.

Sorry to drone on and on, I just want to make sure I'm being complete. In summary, I'm looking for answers to:
- Is it my struts I should look at replacing?
- If so, which type of strut do you prefer?
- Is there anything else I should replace while they're in there?
- Should I trust this shop? Is there anything different on the SVT's strut setup compared to other cars that might lead to problems?

THANK YOU. I really appreciate any thoughts on this!

#1120907 12/04/04 01:29 AM
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no <3 in the suspension forum? I need to order whatever parts I can sooner rather than later... mods, is it acceptable for me to post this in general so as to get more than 15 views in 6 hours (you can message me so I can repost, or you can move it directly)? Do I just need to chill out and accept that maybe no one will bother to read my novel of a post??

I really need advice from my fellow CEG'ers (not that I'm a regular anymore but I had a few hundred posts from before switching to the new database when we lost our usernames and post histories).

thanks guys...

#1120908 12/04/04 05:35 AM
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Koni's (GB) and H&R's ($200 at tire rack)

or

Bilstein's and H&R's (what I have a LOVE!)


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#1120909 12/04/04 06:47 PM
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you should source some of those options outside of bat, i think you will find some better prices. sounds like you really don't need the performance of the konis. sounds like you should just go with the cheapest, most reputable setup. The way i see it, you should be able to buy springs for 200 and struts for 400 hopefully with shipping included or not too much more. As for the shop doing the work, you should ask them the same questions your asking us. $170 is a fair price, but like you said if it suddenly becomes, "oh you have this problem and that problem so it's $300" that would suck. As for replacing other suspension components it depends on how much money your looking to spend and how long y ou think your gonna keep the car and how many miles you will put on it. Even though the car only has 49k it is still 4 years old going on 5 so some of those things may need replacing but it's probably not critical at this point. IF you put 15k miles on it per year and drive it another 3 years you will be at the point where the [censored] resale value wont justify pouring a lot more money in and fixing the nitty gritty wont increase the value enough so you will just sell it as is take what you can get and moveon to the next car.

#1120910 12/06/04 01:56 AM
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I have the BAT struts & springs. They are great for a daily drive, not too rough on the bumpy roads. My wife will disagree as she finds them way too stiff for her liking, but you can't win them all.
For me BAT worked out the best bet, with all the bushings thrown in too. They do the job well, and I can't imagine wanting more for a daily drive.


1998.5 T-Red on Midnight Blue SVT Build Number 5320 of 6535
#1120911 12/06/04 04:24 PM
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i have st200 struts and h&r's on my car. I dunno if you can get the st200's anymore, but for the cost they were a good buy and they perform fine for my needs. Never had a bad comment on my cars handling or ride quality.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
#1120912 12/06/04 11:34 PM
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since the problems I was having in the post you found, I inspected my struts and my LR was shot. Icould just pull up on the wheel well, the LR had no pressure from struts when i pulled the car up and down.. compared to the RR which I could notice the dampening. (my use of words correct here?? sorry if wrong..)
Also, if you feel around the top, you would see leakage of the gas if they're shot.in my case it was really grimey.

your creaking, check the faq, there's one on creaking rear suspension.. it's the bushings for rear stabilizer bar i think. it psses me off, I used waterproof grease and the creaking went away.. but came back 1 month later. only takes about 5 minutes to fix though.. make sure you don't jack the car up much or you'll find it impossible to get the bracket back on..

My rear was really really wobbly with the bad strut. I changed the strut with Factory since I liked how they felt and handled, and haven't had the problem since.
The problem I had skipping, on big turns such as going out / in freeway ramp, is lot better and figured out it's normal for some skipping. I was driving a rental car (05 subaru outback ) and it did the same thing. However before i fixed the strut, it felt like my entire rear flexed out of shape and was going to go out of control...

Changing the rear struts isn't as bad as you would imagine if you never did that before. It was my 1st time, i think I should have my rear alignment done, but all in all, following the FAQ REALLY helps getting it accomplished. You just need a garage or something without nosy neighbors since you need to use a hammer to whack some parts off. just something to keep in mind to save some money.

I stuck with Stock struts even though i considered replacing all 4, because i had KYB struts before on 2 diff cars, and though that's not listed as one of your options, it was an aftermarket strut that made the car ride uncomfortable in some cases. i do a lot of driving, so i rather have something comfortable, yet with pretty good performance.

sorry for long post. hope it helps some people.


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#1120913 12/15/04 02:40 AM
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I have the same problem with the back end of the car jumping around ridiculously over bumps. No squeaking or clunking, though, so I feel blessed for that. I have totally decided to get H&R springs, and I think I want Bilstein struts (can't justify the $ for the Konis), so I've been looking around, and when I went to SP Motorsports, I noticed the "kit price" is no lower than if you add up the individual prices ($709). I then called, talked to Joe @ SP Motorsports. He said something about their supplier raising the prices, and the individual prices didn't get adjusted, but the kit prices did. Yeah right! He then recommended that I get the BAT Euro struts w/ H&R springs for $635. Also, I called a highly recommended shop for pricing on the installation. This is the same shop that put the tires on my mom's Vette. They quoted me a ballpark figure of (sit down if you have heart problems) ~$500!?! That is for install of struts & springs, and a 4- wheel align. Not to mention that I'll be getting some Kumho Ecsta Supra 712's from Tire Rack, and need to have those installed, too. So, ~$1500 for springs , struts, and tires , out the door? I'll need to stop at a convenience store on the way, so I can get some Vaseline...
Demon, where did you get your springs & struts?
I'm sure I can find cheaper labor, the guy @ Performance Alignment said they were charging $70 / hr. It burns me up, though, cause I know they do stellar work.


'99 SVT Contour #535/2760, born 11/30/98. Toreador Red / Prairie Tan Wife's car: '00 Saturn LS2. Dk. Toreador Red (no joke) / Graphite Sunday Bruiser: '67 Camaro rs/SS350 4 spd. Ermine White / Custom Yellow
#1120914 01/23/05 08:31 AM
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thought I'd update this in case someone is searching the forums for info...

found what seems to be a good shop. asked them to do a ride test with me and then put it up to verify the problem. turns out the u-shaped bracket holding the bushing on the passenger side rear sway bar (or some type of bar at least) has broken clean off. This shop will definitely get my business next time I have something for them to take care of...

I've had a urethane bushing on order since late december and since it won't be a HUGE pia to install like struts + springs could be, I've got a good friend I'm willing to lean on that can "just fab up something that'll work." Killer

#1120915 01/23/05 04:11 PM
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You know after reading some of the problems in here it makes me want to go check my rear because as of late I've had this feeling like I am losing control in turns that I didn't have before. But right now there is a lot of "road salt" from crews working with the snow. So I'm not sure if its a lose of traction or the suspension. Never really considered the suspension to be worn out.


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