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i just got my contour a few months ago and went ahead and changed the oil as soon as i got it. The previous owner used regular oil in it. Well I put in Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30. It is almost time for another oil change and lately as the weather has gotten colder, i've noticed in the morning when i first start it, the engine sounds louder on startup, not a good sound either, sounds almost like a scraping sound. It only last a second or two on startup and then its normal, but I was wondering if it would be better to just use regular oil to maybe help the cold starts. Any recommendations on running synth versus regular on cold starts?? Or is it normal on these duratecs in the cold? Any help apreciated.
1999 Contour SE Sport 24V V-6, MTX-75,Spruce Green,loaded,4 wheel disc,STOCK(4 now).
1990 Ford Mustang GT-Supercharged, H/C/I, 450RWHP/443RWTQ. My Mustang Site
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A lot of people had already talk about that in previous thread. Syntec oil will be better in cold condition cuz it resist more to temperature effect. The sound you hear is very common on the duratec(you didn't mention your engine), i do have the duratec and it's normal to hear that sound at startup. It's the time it takes to the oil to reach pressure for the motor heads.
Nic.
Contour 99 MTX V6 fully loaded, stock with 110000km. Illuminated sunroof switch. About to do the mystique rear dome light conversion with eyeball dome light.
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In colder weather people use 0w 20 or 5w 30 weights...you shoudl be fine.
Lupe
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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I use mobil 1 0-20. No problems so far.
95 SES Sold
99 SE Sport Sold
99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.
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so it would be alright to use 0-20w full synthetic for the winter than. I will get some of that then for my next oil change. Thanks everyone for your replies!
1999 Contour SE Sport 24V V-6, MTX-75,Spruce Green,loaded,4 wheel disc,STOCK(4 now).
1990 Ford Mustang GT-Supercharged, H/C/I, 450RWHP/443RWTQ. My Mustang Site
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Originally posted by KC99SE: so it would be alright to use 0-20w full synthetic for the winter than. I will get some of that then for my next oil change. Thanks everyone for your replies!
Kevin, not only is it alright to use fully synthetic oil, it is preferable and better for your engine in cold weather. The primary benefit of fully synthetic oils in winter is that they don't thicken as much at low temperatures as dino oil and therefore provide better flow/lubrication at initial startup.
I'd suggest you stick with the 5-30W though as it will be more than slippery enough for anything Detroit will throw at it. That way you don't need to concern yourself with winter versus summer oils and just change at your regular schedules.
I lived in northern British Columbia for awhile, approx. 25 years ago before they had 0-20W or even 5-30W and I ran 10-30W Mobil 1 in my 78 International Scout 4X4 and 69 302 Ford Falcon with good results and that was at minus 50 degrees 
Regards, Alan
03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD
98 Mystique 2.5 MTX
99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts
98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp
Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch
AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore
GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/
KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly
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Originally posted by Alan Coles: Kevin, not only is it alright to use fully synthetic oil, it is preferable and better for your engine in cold weather. The primary benefit of fully synthetic oils in winter is that they don't thicken as much at low temperatures as dino oil and therefore provide better flow/lubrication at initial startup.
That is a common misconception.....Oil weights are all EQUAL....a 5w 30 synthetic will be equal to a 5w 30 dyno oil.
Main issue is that synthetic takes longer to degrade, hence the reason it seems like synthetic does not get thick.
But your, theory is incorrect.
But synthetics in general do offer better pertection than dyno oils.
Lupe
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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Originally posted by Roz 1999 SVT-C: Originally posted by Alan Coles:
Kevin, not only is it alright to use fully synthetic oil, it is preferable and better for your engine in cold weather. The primary benefit of fully synthetic oils in winter is that they don't thicken as much at low temperatures as dino oil and therefore provide better flow/lubrication at initial startup.
That is a common misconception.....Oil weights are all EQUAL....a 5w 30 synthetic will be equal to a 5w 30 dyno oil. Main issue is that synthetic takes longer to degrade, hence the reason it seems like synthetic does not get thick.
But your, theory is incorrect.
But synthetics in general do offer better pertection than dyno oils. Lupe
Hi Lupe, I do believe I'm correct in my thinking. Although if I'm wrong it certainly wouldn't be the first time. If I am, please explain where I've erred as I do like to learn.
I was not refering to the oil's weight (viscosity) specifically, but rather its ability to maintain it's specified vicosity under extreme conditions. In this case, the pour point (the temperature at which ASTM D-97 testing determines an oils ability to remain fluid).
I just came across this link below which, I think, illustrates my point quite well.
http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.html
See the section: Pour Point (ASTM D-97) about halfway down the page.
After looking at it quickly, I can see that I'll need to read it a little more as it looks like Amsoil outperforms Mobil 1 in every test area. I may have to rethink my fixation on only using Mobil 1 in my cars.
I've never thought the main issue with synthetic oils was their extended life capabilities although that has now come more to the fore-front when people are looking for economy. Several manufacturers are now using 7,500 mile oil change intervals for conventional dino oil, and it's my understanding that lab testing has backed up their claims. That doesn't mean I'll follow suit, it's hard to teach an "old dog" new tricks. Racers aren't concerned about something lasting much longer than the race at hand, they need products that standup under the pressure of extreme loads and temperatures.
I used Mobil 1 up when I lived up north for it's superior flowing characteristics at low temperatures. I use it now in my turbocharged cars and any that see track time for synthetic's increased ability to retain it's viscosity under extreme shear loads and temperatures. It's not hard for turbos to run at 1,300+ degrees F .
Regards, Alan
PS - I just picked up the twin to your car (in looks) - 99 Black/Tan SVT to transplant my demolished 98's motor/trans/etc., into
03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD
98 Mystique 2.5 MTX
99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts
98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp
Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch
AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore
GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/
KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly
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Originally posted by Alan Coles:
I was not refering to the oil's weight (viscosity) specifically, but rather its ability to maintain it's specified vicosity under extreme conditions. In this case, the pour point (the temperature at which ASTM D-97 testing determines an oils ability to remain fluid).
This is what i was refering to...in your orginal post is sounded like you were stating that it had diffrent viscosits....you cleared up the misconception with this post.
this is true, synthetic oils, do maintain there viscosity better becasue of there properties and dino oils degrade faster.
All is right now
Lupe
Last edited by Roz 1999 SVT-C; 11/18/04 06:48 PM.
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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so where can you get amsoil? i have yet to find it at autozone,napa,advance auto,pep boys,...so where can you get it?
aaron
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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