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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2004
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94,000 miles on stock rotors, and the second set of pads. If it ain't broke why spend a lot trying to improve on an excellent stock rotor and pad ? The only problem was that the rotor rusted itself onto the spindle that I ordered new spindles. Fortunately the rotors came off before I needed the spindles, but it was a brutal job to remove them. I looked at putting stainless steel rotors on but the Stainless steel Brake Corp. said they don't make any rotors for these cars (260MM). I'd like suggestions how to prevent this from happening on my new set of stock rotors ?
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223
"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223 |
a very thin and even coating of anti-sieze on the hub face or back of the rotor will do it. Keep it thin and even to avoid DTV issues later on.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,045
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2003
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00 black/tan svt, #2052 of 2150, born 2/1/00
formerly known as my csvt
"Nothing in the world is more dangerous than a sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity." -Martin Luther King, Jr.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
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Thanks, I did that but I am wondering if it will endure 5 or 6 years of rain, heat and salted winter roads. That was why I would've gone for the Stainless Rorors if I could have gotten them. A simple brake job was anything but.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223
"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223 |
Originally posted by acrdklr:
what are dtv issues?
DTV = Disc thickness variation.
If the rotor doesn't sit flat against the hub, it creates a small but measurable "wobble" in the rotor as it spins. over time, as the rotor wears, it wears unevenly creating thickness difference around the rotor. This can result in a pulsing feeling in the pedal, and is one of the things people like to call "warped" rotors.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223
"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,223 |
Originally posted by 98MystiquED:
Thanks, I did that but I am wondering if it will endure 5 or 6 years of rain, heat and salted winter roads. That was why I would've gone for the Stainless Rorors if I could have gotten them. A simple brake job was anything but.
The anti-sieze should work fine. it doesn't like to come off even under adverse conditions. Your only other options are to have the rotor and/or hub coated professionally with some permanent rust preventative (not cost effective in the slightest)
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397
b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397 |
Originally posted by Rara:
a very thin and even coating of anti-sieze on the hub face or back of the rotor will do it. Keep it thin and even to avoid DTV issues later on.
Molly Lube is a little bit better if you have it. It's made to prevent rusting and binding. I've noticed Anit Sieze burns off when exposed to air.
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 42
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 42 |
I had the same problem. I waited to late to change my brakes and it ground into my drivers side rotor. I pulled everything apart and the rotor would not come off. I busted the part of the rotor, that is used with the brakes, off and the rest i had to get a wheel puller to get it off and it busted the rest of the rotor up. It took me an hour to get one rotor off and it was busted in 3 different spots.
1999 Contour SE Sport 39,xxx Miles
20% tint, Yokohama AVS tires 205/60/15
Aiwa cd player
1988 Ford F-150 4x4
31/10.50/15 mudders
2 10" Subs, Clarion Cd
Roll pan, bed cover, black outs all 4 corners
5% tint,Dual flowmaster's, K&N filter
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
Originally posted by Andy W.:
Originally posted by Rara:
a very thin and even coating of anti-sieze on the hub face or back of the rotor will do it. Keep it thin and even to avoid DTV issues later on.
Molly Lube is a little bit better if you have it. It's made to prevent rusting and binding. I've noticed Anit Sieze burns off when exposed to air.
-Andy
That's strange seeing as Anti-Seize is rated to 1000�°F.  The only way to get it off anything is with brake cleaner.
On a side note we used to smear it on our apprentices tools at the mine I used to work at  and then they'd unknowingly touch their faces or other tools and the sh!t would spread like baby-sh!t on a blanket.  A drop would go a mile.
Very funny to watch!
Conclusion: Anti-Seize is the way to go if you want to prevent the rotors rusting on. A thin layer on the inside of the rotor hat is all you need. I took off a set of rotors with 45,000 miles on them and they came off like new and the anti-seize was still there.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 230
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 230 |
So am i getting this straight? this anti-seize stuff will prevent the roters from getting that damn rust film on them? I just posted this question in another forum and everyone said it is just a "natural problem"..nothing can really fix it. Zinc coated will prevent rust for a little while but it eventually wears off. So where do you buy this stuff and how do you go about applying it to the rotor? Im assuming you will need to remove the rotors and put it just on the face facing the wheel (this side you see when looking through the wheel spokes). Is it a thin fluid type of material so it does not fill the slotted and ported rotors?
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