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I have one compvr 12 in the back of my contour and it works pretty well. I made my box out of 3/4" mdf and sealed it with white latex caulk and it seems to be airtight to me. If you want boomy base then i would go with ported but for me a 2 cube sealed box worked out well. It hits really low and has a rather tight sound to it. As for glueing I used standard wood glue and angle clamps then used 1 3/4" coarse drywall screws spaced about every 5 inches. Make sure you drill pilot holes or the wood can split. Also countersink them for a cleaner look. To finish it I used carpet from auto zone made for covering boxes.
Mike
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Originally posted by lowridincontour:
And another thing... after i wood glue the box together should i use some nails to keep it in place also?.... and what material should i use to seal the inside of the box to make it airtight.... like the name of some good material along with what it is...
Well uh, yea, you need to nail the box together, wood glue helps seal. If you havent decided yet, I would go with a sealed box. Sealed boxes generally have tighter response than a ported one. Ported will get louder, but its going to be right behind you, so its going to right there anyway.
So anyway yea, pre drill your holes and use screws to hold the box together, and then use woodglue at all the seams and corners to insure a good seal, inside and outside.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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i got the measure in cubic inches because I divided the shape into a triangle and a square, those areas are easy to find and you multiply by the height to get the volume
I used liquid nail when I built my box to seal the seams
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Originally posted by MrGiggles:
then use woodglue at all the seams and corners to insure a good seal, inside and outside.
actually, a proper box will use the wood glue to secure the pieces together, not the screws. the screws are just used to keep the pieces together while the adhesive sets up, and should only be used when you don't have access to a good set of clamps (like i don't at the moment...  )
once the adhesive sets up, it will be much stronger than the screws.
oh, and please don't use nails. 
02 Mustang GT... Tuned by Nelsons. Low 12's, anyone? 
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how do you go about building a ported box... The sub says it requires a 1.75 cubic foot ported box for one sub. The site says that the minimum is including the port... what does that mean...
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that means the port, the plastic tube that makes the port has a volume that needs to be acounted for. they are saying that their measurment has taken this into acount, kinda like the volume of the sub that is inside of the box
I second what someone else said use a sealed box. yes you need more power to drive it but it is much cleaner sounding then a ported box and it will respond better, a ported box will just be loud
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Originally posted by brapple:
I second what someone else said use a sealed box. yes you need more power to drive it but it is much cleaner sounding then a ported box and it will respond better, a ported box will just be loud
i have to slightly disagree. a ported box can sound just as good as a sealed if designed correctly. but it is MUCH easier to design a sealed box to have it sound good as compared to a ported.
02 Mustang GT... Tuned by Nelsons. Low 12's, anyone?
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Alot of sub manufacturers (the good ones like lambda, Adire, JL, ED, etc...) will always be willing to help you in the design of your enclosure when they aren't rediculously busy. I'm sure there are a number of people here also willing to lend a hand.
It's true ported boxes are more difficult to construct, they are also hard to perfect. If you get the tuning worng for your subwoofer, it can adversely affect it. That said, a sealed box built properly for a specific sub will not sound better, tighter, faster, (or any of those rediculous dexcriptive words) than a properly built ported enclosure.
The biggest drawback with a ported box is the increase in volume required. For instance, my Lambda PB15 required a fairly massive 3 cubic feet minimum SEALED. The box designs I came up for the sub ported were between 6.7 cubic feet and 5.3 cubic feet. That increase in volume used prohibited me from attempting a ported enclosure for the sub (that and I'm damn lazy)
My new sub, an ED 16Kv.2 which should ship someday (hopefully) Was optimised for smaller enclosures, so despite being a 15" driver, it will only require a 1.7 cubic foot sealed or 2.5 cubic foot vented box. I have no reason to stick with the sealed box anymore, and ED provided me a blueprint to construct my box tuned the way it needs to be tuned.
For most people looking for sound quality and lacking the ability to design the box properly, a sealed box is the way to go, less to go wrong. That said, too small of a sealed enclosure with have the same adverse affects and you'll hear it as your low frequencies will become boomy.
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Some new stuff has come into play here... My amp does not have the ability to power both subs with enough to make it sound good. So now i am only going to use 1 sub, that solves the powering issue... so now i have the ability to make a ported or sealed box with enough room for either... I am kind of thinking that i would like to try a ported box.... but i looked at some crap about building one, and none of it made any sense. - http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=21- http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=17thoes are some of the site i was looking at, but none of the stuff is qute clear to me. heres some of the basic stuff i have figured out. minimum ported box requirements - 1.75 cubic ft sub displacement - .6 cubic ft the dimensions of the box itself the whole thing i dont understand would be to figure out the dimensions of the tube for the ported box, where to put it, how to mount it, and what material to use. Also this whole tuning the sub thing. can someone help me figure out what i need to be doing in order to construct this box... and how to do it...
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Originally posted by Honkeytonk Monkey:
Alot of sub manufacturers (the good ones like lambda, Adire, JL, ED, etc...) will always be willing to help you in the design of your enclosure when they aren't rediculously busy. I'm sure there are a number of people here also willing to lend a hand.
It's true ported boxes are more difficult to construct, they are also hard to perfect. If you get the tuning worng for your subwoofer, it can adversely affect it. That said, a sealed box built properly for a specific sub will not sound better, tighter, faster, (or any of those rediculous dexcriptive words) than a properly built ported enclosure.
The biggest drawback with a ported box is the increase in volume required. For instance, my Lambda PB15 required a fairly massive 3 cubic feet minimum SEALED. The box designs I came up for the sub ported were between 6.7 cubic feet and 5.3 cubic feet. That increase in volume used prohibited me from attempting a ported enclosure for the sub (that and I'm damn lazy)
My new sub, an ED 16Kv.2 which should ship someday (hopefully) Was optimised for smaller enclosures, so despite being a 15" driver, it will only require a 1.7 cubic foot sealed or 2.5 cubic foot vented box. I have no reason to stick with the sealed box anymore, and ED provided me a blueprint to construct my box tuned the way it needs to be tuned.
For most people looking for sound quality and lacking the ability to design the box properly, a sealed box is the way to go, less to go wrong. That said, too small of a sealed enclosure with have the same adverse affects and you'll hear it as your low frequencies will become boomy.
Yay!!!! An Internet brand junkie like me!!!!!
1998 Contour GL
2.0L Zetec
Stock as hell for the moment....
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