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Just trying to figure out how to diagnose the source of failure and fix it finally...

Hot weather - Secondaries open after startup, fail everytime afterward.

Cold weather - Secondaries open numerous times but flutter/pulse. Or secondaries act the same way as in hot weather. Varies randomly between the two.

Background info : Never had complete failure until after spark plug replacement, in which I moved the IMRC box downward slightly for access and removed its cover (out of curiosity). Previous to this point I was still experiencing slight fluttering/pulsing but never complete failure.


Chris G. ~ 98 Mystique LS ATX
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Just burn it in a fire.

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Try cutting out a square hole above the IMRC to allow hot air to escape. Heat is what is kiiling your IMRC. On rkneeshaw's car we drilled out 15 3/8" above it in a 5x3 formation, to alleviate the same issue on his car.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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hmmm, don't mind me, I'm going to whore a bit here....




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Ryan clean up your bettery tie down you corroded bastid.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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The symptoms I mentioned are with the IMRC cover removed. No need to cut holes...

My main concern is trying to figure out why this became a "heat related issue" after I moved the IMRC box during spark plug install. Before that time I never had a problem, aside from the slight pulsing (and that was with the plastic cover still on too).


Chris G. ~ 98 Mystique LS ATX
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Maybe a grounding problem. Check for corrosion and/or loose connection, since it was moved this is possible.

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my imrc was acting up so bad i removed the whole cover and it didnt work i i relocated it to the rear of the battery rack. i had all the same problems. it would get so hot that i couldnt even touch it. now that i put it to the rear of the battery rack it never turns off on me and the power delivery feels way smoother liek the car was new. all it took was one .25 inch screw and i didnt even have to drill, plus 2 washers and a nut and thats it. it wont take but a few minutes and its well worth it. my imrc became to unpredictable and sucked when i was on the highway, or just trying to accelerate period. the heat from the valve cover is just too much. the hole i used on the battery rack is for the battry tie down rod on the rear side. you also have to move the battery cables so it will fit there. i have a pic on my car domain link below its all the way at the bottom of the page. i think this is the best solution to the problem. and it wont even cost a dollar. its just one screw holding it in place but it is held on real tigth due to the bronze looking piece. and when you do it unplug the eletrical wire plug than route and than bolt it down tigth with the nut. the wiriing harness will have to be on when you mount the imrc or you wont be able to put it on.


98 contour s.e. sport mtx http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/503352 all mods shown on page

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