Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Engine died under acceleration won't start. HELP

I search first before asking this and could not find any posts that would not help . Well I just changed engines out a 2.0 for a 2.5 and I drove it to work last night and home again this morning (100Km distance). When I got home I put in into reverse then forward to get into my driveway and when I hit the gas it went for a second then died then started right back up after . Then this evening I went into the city (distance 50Km) and stoped at a store no problems up to then and when I came back about 5 min (Engine still warm) started up and drove through the parking lot (2 min) then went to accelerate hard it went for 10-15 feet and died now I cannot get it to start it sounds like it has no compression .......and I don't think that it is possable to brake both timing chains or jump them at the same time and there was no noise or clunk to suggest any brakeage ...... Any help would be apreciated.

I dont think you will get any replies because everyone knows 2.0 to 2.5 isnt realistic.
In other words most people including me think your BSing.

You need to take pictures of this 2.0 to 2.5 because even I'm having a hard time with this one.

Check spark plug wires with ohmmeter set on highest scale. Any wire above 30K ohms should be discarded. Check your sparkplugs and replace them if they are worn, where the electrode is burnt or rounded off. Check and replace the rotor and distributor cap if the electrodes are burnt and/or corroded. Check fuel pressure and correct any problems. Check all vacuum lines. check the air ducting to your throttle body, all gaskets on the intake that may introduce false air into the intake. Check map or maf sensor. With maf system, engine warmed and idling, gently tap on sensor, if the rpm's drop or the engine dies, replace the sensor. The map sensor can be checked by hooking up a analog (needle) voltmeter between ground and the map sensor wire. Set the scale to no higher than 12 or 15 volts. If you can get a scale to a maximum of 6 volts the better. With the engine off, the reading will be around 4.5V, depending on your altitude above sea level, with the engine warmed up and idling the reading should be around 1.5-2.0V. Rev the motor up, if the needle pegs the scale one way or the other, replace the sensor. If wiggling the wires peg the needle, inspect and repair the wiring to MAP sensor.

i hope you have the 2.5 liter ECU...Zetec ECU will not function properly...if at all. If you have not doen this, you may want to look into that.

Lupe

Yep It was changed when I did the whole front end. From the car that I bought that was wrecked in the rear for all of you sceptics that might be saying that I am full of BS. ********(HITMANinMI)*********

Odds are that it's flooding at high loads and lower RPM.

Crank the gas out and get it running.

Then figure out why. Fuel pressure problem maybe.

Well more of an update I am now finding that there is no spark and it seams that the fuel pump is not running It works under hardwire but I don't think that it is running in the tank... it runs quiet but there is no presure at the release by the engine. ????????????

Maybe the inertia switch in the drivers footwell is acting up.

Just a question, are the fuel pumps the same for both engines?
From Signature's site:
for a 1997 Tour
In-Line4, 2.0L Eng, ... F8RZ-9H307-AC
V6, 2.5L Eng, Thru 12-08-1997 F8RZ-9H307-BD
All applications F8RZ-9H307-BC

Just a thought.