Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec 3L parts list. Any additions?

Alright, well I'm just about to summon the balls to tear into the SVT and I'm trying to assemble as complete a parts list as I can before I start to at least estimate the cost. My plan is to use the 3L long block with svt cams, timing gears, and upper and lower intake manifolds. Here I go...

2001+ low mileage (30k or less) 3.0L Duratec
Clevite 77 rod bearings
Clevite 77 main bearings
OEM cam bearings (necessary if low mileage?)

Spec stage 2 clutch kit
Upgraded shifter forks

OEM or Fel-Pro Head Bolts
160 Degree thermostat

new fluids all over the place
JB Weld for the heads

Gaskets (I know Fel-Pro sells several kits. Which one(s) should I buy and what gaskets actually need to be changed when doing the swap?)

Two main questions:

First, are there any other torque to yield studs or bolts in the 3L motor besides the head bolts?

Also, I know that having a custom chip burned for the new motor is essential to extract the most performance out of it, but I am unclear of exactly how this works. Is an APEXi SAFC necessary to dyno tune the motor or can you just have a custom, but non adjustable chip burned while on the dyno? I'm also curious as to how much the entire "chipping" process usually costs. I figured it would be $300-$400, please let me know how close I am.

Thanks in advance
ANdy

Why do you need JBweld?
Also go with the stage 1 spec clutch
The rod bolts are TTY along with 16 windage tray bolts which are

12 x F3LY-6214-A [Connecting Rod Bolts]
4 x F5RZ-6345-C [small bolts]
4 x F5RZ-6345-D [big bolts]
4 x YL8Z-6345-AA [big studs]
4 x YL8Z-6345-BA [little studs]

DMD bolt is TTY too.

You only need JBweld if you're using your SVT heads, but you said your getting a longblock which implies your using the 3L heads.

Get new timing chains. Worth the assurance.

Custom chip will cost you about $400, and you don't NEED a Apexi, but it will help complement the chip is what I've gathered from other's posts.

Consider headers or gutting your precats at the same time since it will be easy to do with them off the car.

JB weld is to close up the extra block drains. There is another product, "QuickSteel" or similar that is faster. I had troubles with JB weld oozing during the curing process. Luckily it was on the engine stand, so I taped the deck surface, then rotated it 180 deg (deck side down).

Cam bearing replacement? Ummm.... the steel cams run directly on the aluminum head, like most other engines of this type too. No bearings to replace.

I don't think Clevite 77 bearings are much benefit or necessary, but I will probably get flamed for that. However, I guess that putting new bearings (OEM or Clevite) in a used short block makes sense because most sand in the oil passages would probably be gone by now, so set #2 could expect nice clean oil.

And once again, if he's using the full 3.0L LONGBLOCK, he's not using the 2.5L Heads. There's no reason to JB Weld, Quick Steel, Epoxy, Glue, bubble gum any oil passage ways.

Mark

Quote:

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JB weld is to close up the extra block drains.

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thats a big , i think what you think you are needing the JB weld for is when you match the heads to fit the SVT LIM because the 3L is an oval port and your SVT is split, goto DemonSVT's website he has some really good pics of the process of porting it to match, also you should ask him about filling in the injector spots, because that is the only thing you need the JB weld for, well that and welding your friends doors shut

People DO use JB Weld/Quiksteel to plug the coolant holes in the 3.0L short block (hybrid). Personally, I lined the walls with JB Weld, and then put the quicksteel in.

And IIRC, the injectors go into the LIM....

Originally posted by gearhead98:

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Quote:

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JB weld is to close up the extra block drains.

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thats a big , i think what you think you are needing the JB weld for is when you match the heads to fit the SVT LIM because the 3L is an oval port and your SVT is split, goto DemonSVT's website he has some really good pics of the process of porting it to match, also you should ask him about filling in the injector spots, because that is the only thing you need the JB weld for, well that and welding your friends doors shut

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not if you got a 99 3L long block you would get split port heads instead of oval port, dont know about the oil drains and all that(if they have the extra like the oval ports do) and dont know if they will give as good of performance as a set of oval ports(have to talk to demon on that one) but it would save you having to port the heads to match them to your LIM

Thanks for the TTY part numbers and advice. I probably would have figured it out, but you made my life a lot easier by just giving 'em to me.

The JB Weld was a provision for the work I'm going to need to do on the 3L heads. I know that there is some substantial port matching that needs to be done in order for the 3L head to SVT LIM to work and I know that the JB Weld comes in somewhere. I think it has to do with injector positioning as well, but I'm still kind of lost even after looking at both demonsvt's and a cougar site chronicalling the same process. Can somebody explain just waht exactly needs to be JB Welded and what it is actually doing? I am very curious.

Warmly,
Andy