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I just went through the ATX tranny archive so I think
I have the answers I need but I just wanted to ask a few
specifics:
I have a 99 V6 SE with ~ 100K miles on it.
Bought the car new and have changed the ATF 3 or 4
times. First time at 50K miles, then every 15K to 20K
afterwards. I used regular ATF except for all but
the last change when I used a penzoil high milage ATF.
The last fluid change was about 8k to 9K miles ago.
I use sort of a modified flush technique. I drain 4 quarts,
refill, drive the car around for 20 minutes and then
do it again.
For the last thousand miles or so the car has started
to shift funny. When it's cold the 1st to 2nd gear shift
is abrupt, when it gets hot, it's the 2nd to 3rd gear shift.
I feels like there's just the slightest hesitation and then
an abrupt shift. Once or twice under VERY VERY hard
acceleration, I got an actual slip between 2nd & 3rd gear.
I was thinking of installing a cooler, which seems like
a good idea according to the FAQ. I was also thinking of
going with a synth ATF but that seems like a bad idea so
I'll go back to normal ATF and skip the high mileage
formulas.
I do have a check engine light but I'm pretty sure it's
O2 sensor related, not sure if that will effect tranny
performance. I was told to clean the wires on the mass air
flow sensor as that will effect the tranny. (I haven't tried
this yet, just found a set of tamper proof torx bits this
weekend).
Bottom line, if I do another fluid change and install a
cooler this weekend, any hope for this beast or have I
fried the tranny? The engine is rock solid but I don't know
if I want to invest $2K + on a car with 100K on it.
Thanks in advance,
Vinny
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,145
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,145 |
i did, it was fun  , anyways, try flushing the fluid and, dont add the cooelr yet as it may be a waste if it is fried, i am adding a cooler to help protect y new investment. if the flush does not help, talk to unisys12 about what to do, he is the local CD4E expert
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,603
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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With the mileage you have it could be one of four things.
Cheapest and easiest to replace is the TSS (Turbine Speed Sensor).
If you turn your wheels to the left and look behind the left wheel at the side of the tranny.
You will see this sensor, and the 2 wire harness connected to it.
Second thing to replace is the Range Selector Sensor.
This is on TOP of the tranny and it tells the PCM what gear the transmission is in.
If it is worn or it is LOOSE, it can cause a lot of different problems.
Third, it could be the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor).
This tells the PCM the axle speed (rpm).
If this is worn or failing, it will cause lots of shifting problems.
It can also cause your speedometer to act funny and irratic.
Fourth, because you have high mileage, the tranny could be giving you
warning signs that it could be failing soon.
Try the first two and see if it clears things up.
If not, then a visit to your local transmission shop is in order.
Pete...
2004 Mercury Marauder 300A
Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER
DOB 10/31/2003
DOP 1/2/2004
www.mercurymarauder.net
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
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Update.
I changed the ATF again, 3 drains/refills for a more
thorough flush. Very little difference.
Got some good advice on changing the TSS and RSS,
thanks. I read in another thread that a faulty TSS
can cause the tranny to bang shift, which is basically
what's happening between 2nd and 3rd when hot.
I don't know if the fault mentioned applies to 99s
but for $30 bucks and 30 minutes of work, it may be
worth a shot.
As a general question, does anyone know where to get
test information on the various sensors in the car? I
would like to verify that these sensors are bad before
replacing them. I could burn lots of $$ and time changing
sensors and still wind up with a car in the transmission
shop.
Last 2 questions (promise:
When the CD4E fails, typically how fast does it go
from acting funny to not drivable?
Planning for the worse, can anone recommend a
trans shop close to Momouth or Ocean counties
in New Jersey? Or a franchise like aamco?
Thanks,
Vinny
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 610
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my CD4E in my 2.0 zetec has hardly no second gear. when i accelerate at WOT it will continue revving way beyond the limits ofn the rev limiter and just keep going, it just doesnt shift until i take my foot off the gas and then reapply it and it will then shift like absolute crap. when i turn my O/D off it shifts perfect. kinda funny but soon to be fixed with a wonderful new rebuilt tranny.
2002 Cougar
2.5 duratec/ mtx-75
85,0000
Mondeo ST-200 wheels/BFG KDW NT
black/black
Spec Stage 1
Torsen T-2
Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust
apexi s-afc II
K&N FIPK
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 98
CEG\'er
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Originally posted by ContourGuy9817:
my CD4E in my 2.0 zetec has hardly no second gear. when i accelerate at WOT it will continue revving way beyond the limits ofn the rev limiter and just keep going, it just doesnt shift until i take my foot off the gas and then reapply it and it will then shift like absolute crap. when i turn my O/D off it shifts perfect. kinda funny but soon to be fixed with a wonderful new rebuilt tranny.
I'm assuming you wanted to cook your ATX, why o why would you let it slip so much. When you turn the O/D off the line pressure increases, more holding power for your already burnt clutches. 
As for the Synthetic fluid, where did you get the idea that it was a bad idea. Being that you have a higher mileage tranny shouldn't be it. If it's already cooked then no fluid will help you.
Like RoadRunner said go for the TSS, $30 bucks versus a grand or more for a rebuild. 
Good luck with it chenz
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
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Posts: 463 |
Originally posted by chenz:
Once or twice under VERY VERY hard
acceleration, I got an actual slip between 2nd & 3rd gear.
Before you spend any money changing parts, have the hydraulic pressures tested. You stated you have a slip sometimes between 2 and 3. Any slip at all indicates clutch, valve or accumulator damage. Once you start to slip, it is not reversible and will only get worse.
Sorry for the bad news, but that�s automatics for ya.
Some additional info,
When the range sensor goes bad the tranny usually jumps out of gear and downshifts all by itself.
The TSS (turbine speed sensor) usually gets the blame for hard shifts but it is not the only cause of it. The best way to test it is with an OBDII scanner that can display multiple data streams. While driving, compare engine RPM to TSS RPM, they will change so look for TSS RPM jumps relative to engine RPM.
Engine performance, alternator noise and bad grounds can cause rough and erratic shifting. Check you CEL code.
The VSS can also be checked with a scanner, look for eractic vehicle speed output.
I�m not a believer in cleaning MAFs, The MAF runs at a very high temp and will clean itself. In addition, the PCM converts the MAF output to a digital step for table look up. It is working or it isn�t.
Don�t beat on it and keep our eye on the slip, but let it get too bad or you will do more damage.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 610
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Originally posted by COUGAR99:
Originally posted by ContourGuy9817:
my CD4E in my 2.0 zetec has hardly no second gear. when i accelerate at WOT it will continue revving way beyond the limits ofn the rev limiter and just keep going, it just doesnt shift until i take my foot off the gas and then reapply it and it will then shift like absolute crap. when i turn my O/D off it shifts perfect. kinda funny but soon to be fixed with a wonderful new rebuilt tranny.
I'm assuming you wanted to cook your ATX, why o why would you let it slip so much. When you turn the O/D off the line pressure increases, more holding power for your already burnt clutches.
i never said i let it slip, at the first sight of slippage i immediately let off the gas, i always have my o/d off now. and you may say it raises the clutch pressure, but if thats the price i have to pay to be able to get to school then ima do it.
2002 Cougar
2.5 duratec/ mtx-75
85,0000
Mondeo ST-200 wheels/BFG KDW NT
black/black
Spec Stage 1
Torsen T-2
Trubendz 2.5 flowmaster dual exaust
apexi s-afc II
K&N FIPK
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463 |
Originally posted by COUGAR99:
When you turn the O/D off the line pressure increases, more holding power for your already burnt clutches.
Not at all true. The OD in/out switch has no control over the control or line pressure. What is actually happening is that by locking out 4th (OD) gear he is preventing use of the 2nd/4th band in high gear (now 3rd). It would seem from the descriptions of a slip shifting from 2-3 and a slip in OD that this is his problem (slipping 2-4 band). Since the band actually has to transmit less torque in 2nd then in OD, the slip is less noticeable, but still there. The band is not used for 1st and 3rd.
In any case, this unit needs to be rebuilt.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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I have the same problem with my 95 mystique. Cept my slipping is from 3-4. And my 1-2 gear when cold is the same as him with the abrupt shift. I just had my tranny flushed and that didnt do anything. Also i went to autozone to get my comp scanned and they said they cant do it because they cant find the plug for it. Where is the plug??
1998.5 SVT contour #5979 3L 
1995 Mercury Mystique 2.5L auto, all ghetto fo sho
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