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OK guys, I'm picking your brains again for help with my starter issue. Here's what I've found out this week:

1. Cooling system is fine, coolant is in fine shape

2. Heat may not be as big of an issue as I had thought, since it again wouldn't start yesterday (Thursday) after only running for about 20 mins and sitting in the parking lot for an hour during class. As you Utah folks know, yesterday wasn't real hot (low 70's I think)

3. Also, the A/C isn't anything to do with it, I don't think. I haven't run it in a couple of weeks, and the problem has happened a couple of times that it wasn't on.


So I'm starting to get really frustrated with this. I'm almost ready to go out and buy a new starter as some have suggested and see if that fixes it.

My dad being the electrical engineer that he is thinks that it's just GOT to be some electrical componant. He thinks that something is preventing the flow from getting to the starter. Problem is that he doesn't know squat about the Duratec's and thus can't offer any idea as to where the problem might be. Also, every time I specifically drive up to my parents house or the auto shop to have them test things, of course it starts right up. Seems to only not start when I'm alone and far away from any electrical analysis.

So, before I go get a new starter, anyone have any other ideas?

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Soloniod (sp?) getting hot
Bad keyswitch
Bad connection somewhere. Start at 1 point and work your way around, checking everything. If you can, crank it over and have someone check to see if there is power at the starter when you turn the key.

Is the battery dead when you try to start it?

I have no idea, Im just throwing things out to see what has been looked at and what hasnt. Diagnosing electrical problems can be a real PITA


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Bendix getting stuck? Next time it doesn't start get a piece of wood or a socket extention or something and give it a good tap. It may knock it loose.


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Thanks for the tips CRZY. As far as I can tell, nothing is wrong with the battery, but I'm going to give the electrical system a close look as soon as things act up again. Of course it wouldn't act up when I had to go to Autozone the other day, even on a hot day and a long drive.

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Bendix getting stuck?




Pardon me if I'm daft, but what is the bendix? Not familiar with that.

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I believe that is the name for the piece that jumps out and spins inside the starter.


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Originally posted by CRZYDRVR:
Bad connection somewhere. Start at 1 point and work your way around, checking everything. If you can, crank it over and have someone check to see if there is power at the starter when you turn the key.






Sucks - but sometimes you just have to go part by part and look for some sort of annomoly


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Here's the latest installment of the drama...

So I go to checker to look for a Haynes Repair manual and I mention my starter problems. I mentioned a clutch switch to them. They said my car doesn't HAVE a clutch switch, just a "neutral safety switch".

I'm wondering, then, what switches are down by my pedals. I see a red switch next to the clutch pedal, and a green one. What do those do? And what other switches or items of interest might be down there?

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I would say one is for start up, call it what you will "clutch safety switch"
and I think the other would be possibly a Cruise Control Interrupt switch... the only two things I can think of.

Either should be easy to test.. test for continuity.


99 Cougar V6 Tourmaline Green: MTX, KKM, Borla Dual...
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I'm planning on testing those first chance I get. I'm assuming the red one is the "safety" switch or whatever a person prefers to call it, and the green one is the one related to cruise control. Am I right? I'm a knucklehead with this kinda stuff.

But as soon as this problem is resolved it's time to go shopping for a new exhaust, hooray

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Well here is the Technical term for the two...
Clutch Pedal Position Switch CPP.
And that is related to the Cruise control
so my book says...



99 Cougar V6 Tourmaline Green: MTX, KKM, Borla Dual...

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