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Joined: Feb 2004
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Ok so I was driving to work this morning on I75 and @ about 75mph i noticed that my coolant light went on for about 5 seconds and then immediately went off. i got a call from my boss looked down about 1 minute later and the temp guage was off the scale, at that time i heard a large belt squeel and immediately clutched in shut the car off and coasted to a halt on the side of the road.
i got my car to the place where i always go (i used to work there) and they told me that the obvious waterpump was gone and i needed to replace it. my question is should i replace the clutch and trans while the waterpump is getting replaced or does the motor stay in the car for the water pump?
the symptoms of my clutch and trans are that the trans makes a large swishing noise when first engaged and the car surges while under heavy acceleration when accelerating from second through fourth.
sorry for the novel and rushed tone... i'm at work posting this and don't have much time... thanks...


98 E0 CSVT mostly stock...
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I assume you have a V6, anyways to remove the waterpump all that comes out is the battery basically. You can do it yourself, I helped someone do it took about 1 hour or so.

There is a How- To on the main page.

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replace the wp with one from napa with a metal impellar, as for your tranny issues, i got no clue


98.5 Black SE ATX S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Yeah the car is an E0 CSVT.
the waterpump and thermostat were jacked so they both got replaced. hopefully the car will be fine... the trans issues are really the ones that have got me confused.
the best way i can describe the trans or driveline problems is this;
if i'm driving and i punch it in second at 4krpm the car feels like it's dragging a trailer that's constantly yanking on the car. it doesn't feel slower it just feels like i get surges and pauses in the acceleration curve. the car does this in every gear except for first. first sometimes doesn't even feel like it's accelerating correctly, it feels like the motor just rips straight to redline faster than it should but the speedo is at the right mph.


98 E0 CSVT mostly stock...
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The most important thing when changing a pump with a broken impeller is to thoroughly flush the cooling system. You must get out all of the fine pieces of plastic.

The other problems you describe are not transmission related. Do some searches on IMRC, intake cleaning, fuel pump and fuel injectors.

jeff



have you fixed your ford lately?
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60 minute job with the battery in the stock location.

Get either the metal impellared pump (GMB) or the revised white impellared pump. (FORD)

Most opt for the metal one because of the bad history of the black impellared pumps and their random failure times.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.

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