Good Oil & Filter - CEG Archives

No, you want the highest flow (usually means biggest) filter you can stick on your engine.

Originally posted by Tisby:

Originally posted by WestCoastAjax:
Purilator PH-8A
BIG honkin V8 filter - twice the size for the same $$$$
Mobile UNO

Am I going to have flow or pressure issues using a larger filter?

Where do we get purolator Filters Ajax? I can't find 'em.

I'm just gonna stick with the Motorcraft oil/filters for every Ford I buy.

advance has em. Ima stick with motorcraft as well.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
advance has em. Ima stick with motorcraft as well.

In Canada eh...

The 2.0 Zetec uses the Motorcraft FL-2005 right ?

Yessir

Well then, you can get the FL-2005 at Walmart for $3.49
Can't get any better than that for OEM.

FL-2005? mine takes the FL-200, maybe the post98s take the FL-2005?

I killed my first car changing my own oil. I didn't really think there was anything hard about it. But for some reason the next day while driving around there was no oil and the light didn't come on. As you can guess something snapped inside and the car was dead.

Much as I'd like to change my own oil there is this level of fear that I'm going to kill the car.

I have a Mercury Mystique 1998 2.0 4-banger. Do I use that same filter listed above and what oil should I get? Does anyone have a How-To change oil and filter with pictures for these Zetec engines? I need help to be free of this.

I've been taking my car to superlube and they only seem to use the Pennzoil oil filters and oil. And to make matters worse they like to put in other grades than 5w30 that might only be killing my VCT?

Bring your own oil and filter in. They should charge less, or find a place that'll let you bring your own stuff. Just use 5w-30 (mobil1 if you want) and a motorcraft filter.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Bring your own oil and filter in. They should charge less, or find a place that'll let you bring your own stuff. Just use 5w-30 (mobil1 if you want) and a motorcraft filter.

I'll just pickup some oil and a filter at Walmart.

Hey, what do I do with the old oil?

The place you take it to usually gets rid of it, or if you do it yourself walmart usually takes in used oil for free, also advance auto parts (well the one here does).

Seen a law from a certain state if you have receipt that the place has to take atleast a certain amount back from you (the amount was more than what you use on our cars) per day. Don't know if that's every state or what.... anyways autozone and some other part stores take it. Otherwise maybe pay a buck or something to legally get rid of it at a shop. They make money off of it, so leaving it on their doorstep during the night wouldnt be beyond me .... that's me though.

I just didn't want to dump it in the trash.

anyone have any recommendations as to where to buy a Mobil 1 oil filter?

This should do it for ya...

http://clients.mapquest.com/mobil1/mqlocator?link=find

Originally posted by svt4stv:
anyone have any recommendations as to where to buy a Mobil 1 oil filter?

I haven't seen them anywhere, even in WA that I can recall.

If you want a high quality oil filter that's usually available at most locations, look for a K&N or Purolator PureOne oil filter.

As far as oil disposal, most auto parts store will recycle it for you for free. Just call around and ask. Just buy a 5-10 quart oil container for transporting it to the store.

Originally posted by mystique97:
FL-2005? mine takes the FL-200, maybe the post98s take the FL-2005?

You are correct, sir!

pre-98 take FL-200

post-98 take FL-2005

They are even located in slightly different positions on the engine.

Originally posted by svt4stv:
anyone have any recommendations as to where to buy a Mobil 1 oil filter?

Some Autozones carry them.

I swear they could not have put my 98 oil filter in a worse spot. Why is everything under, behind and in tight spaces on this car?

Going to change the oil this weekend..

^^^ It's in the same spot on my 03 Focus Zetec.

I always put an oil rag under the filter as I remove it so it doesn't leak all over the exhaust and other parts, which will cause you to smell oil burn for about the next 500 miles.

Another method a guy told me to about was to poke a hole in the oil filter to drain it then take it off.
This cuts down on oil seepage when removing the filter.

Originally posted by microtonal:
Well then, you can get the FL-2005 at Walmart for $3.49
Can't get any better than that for OEM.

Most places here want around 4.85 ~ 5.00$. I'll check Walmart first and save some money.

How often should I change the oil filter?

Change the filter every time you change the oil

Originally posted by TronX:
I swear they could not have put my 98 oil filter in a worse spot. Why is everything under, behind and in tight spaces on this car?

Going to change the oil this weekend..

I totally agree, my 97 is like that. Right behind all the suspension stuff, I'd be nicer if they made it a vertical filter instead.

^^^ Well, in the new Focus 2.0/2.3 Duratecs, they did.

Makes changing the filter a breeze compared to the Zetec on my 03 Focus.

Originally posted by microtonal:
^^^ Well, in the new Focus 2.0/2.3 Duratecs, they did.
Makes changing the filter a breeze compared to the Zetec on my 03 Focus.

And this is why the Focus guys think they have a better engine. As much as I'd hate to admit it, they might be right?

Well, the 03 Zetec is mine and the 05 Duratec is my GF's.
The Contour is my latest edition to the Ford family of cars...

I still like my Zetec though.
No COP (Coil On Plug) on my Zetec like Ford is doing to all the new engines and people are still working on the flasher for the Duratec's since they don't have the service port any more on the EEC. They also started to use the CANBUS protocol and that's all new to the chip tuners out there.

It does look like Ford is done with the Zetec though and now working on improving the Duratec 2.0/2.3L for future cars.

Yeah I don't like coil on plug. They're like $50+ each, atleast on mustangs. I guess they're more effective and what not though.

Originally posted by TronX:
And this is why the Focus guys think they have a better engine. As much as I'd hate to admit it, they might be right?

Unfortunatly I agree with you...

The pre98 Contour Zete is practicly the same as the Focus engine.
They differ slightly, but each has some positives over the other.
Both are better than the post 98 Contour Zetec with its VCT.

Will, I've picked up an Oil Filter Tool, Oil Pan, FL2005 and Mobile1. Dam that oil was like 23$ for 5Qt! But it said lasts 15K..Hmmmm?

It's way too hot to change anything on that car today. Guess I'll try later at work once the bigwigs go home and the sun is down.

Now let me get this right..

1. Remove oil cap
2. Remove oil Filter
3. Remove oil plug
(Wait)
4. Put plug back on
5. Wipe filter sealing ring with oil
6. Put new filter back on
7. Fill up oil (About 4 Qts)
8. Look for leaks
9. Run engine for few minutes.
10. Turn off car.. wait 1 minute.
10. Look for leaks, check oil level.

So not counting tools, that's about 27$ in oil/parts. This oil should last around 15K? 4 to 5 Oil changes.

Originally posted by TronX:

7. Fill up oil (About 4 Qts)
8. Look for leaks
9. Run engine for few minutes.
10. Turn off car.. wait 1 minute.
10. Look for leaks, check oil level.

So not counting tools, that's about 27$ in oil/parts. This oil should last around 15K? 4 to 5 Oil changes.

*Buzzer noise* nope, you check for the leaks while the car is running.

Originally posted by mystique97:

Originally posted by TronX:

7. Fill up oil (About 4 Qts)
8. Look for leaks
9. Run engine for few minutes.
10. Turn off car.. wait 1 minute.
10. Look for leaks, check oil level.

So not counting tools, that's about 27$ in oil/parts. This oil should last around 15K? 4 to 5 Oil changes.

*Buzzer noise* nope, you check for the leaks while the car is running.

Doh! I really should study for this test.

Why would I do the filter before the pan plug?
What if I did the plug before the filter?

Oh yeah, you actually want to do the pan plug before the filter (also put plug back in before you remove the filter(?)). Then after you wipe off the seal for the filter (on the car), make sure you spread oil on the seal on the filter, the seal will dry up and break, if not done, and you will pay dearly for it. Make sure the filter and plug is TIGHT, but not too tight on them, if you get the filter to tight, you can break the seal. Good luck.

Originally posted by mystique97:
Oh yeah, you actually want to do the pan plug before the filter (also put plug back in before you remove the filter(?)). Then after you wipe off the seal for the filter (on the car), make sure you spread oil on the seal on the filter, the seal will dry up and break, if not done, and you will pay dearly for it. Make sure the filter and plug is TIGHT, but not too tight on them, if you get the filter to tight, you can break the seal. Good luck.

Gah... someone told me to do the filter first. Now I must beat them with a fat stick until they stop laughing.

Okay.. so do I unplug first, makes more since.

Why would I put the plug back in before the filter?
Wait! I should know this... because I'll need to move the oil pan?

This feels like poping a girls cherry for the first time. I just hope nothing to goes wrong and monkeys start flying out of my butt like the first time.. That does happen right? Hmmm....

J/K

Originally posted by TronX:

Why would I put the plug back in before the filter?
Wait! I should know this... because I'll need to move the oil pan?

no ... I see no reason that the plug has to be back in before putting a new filter on... and what do you mean move the oil pan?

This is what I found over at FocusHacks.com

Procedure:

1) Pull the car up to where you'll be doing the change at, then shut it off. If the car's engine is hot, let it cool down for at least 30 minutes.
2) While cooling, place ramps ahead of the front wheels of the car, or chock the rear wheels and jack the front passenger corner of the car off the ground. See owners manual for lifting point locations.
3) If using ramps, pull the car up onto the ramps and shut the car off. Chock the rear wheels and use your emergency brake.
4) Prop the hood open, and open the oil filler cap on the valve cover.
5) Locate the oil drain plug and oil filter. Remove the oil filter with the oil drain pan located beneath it. Make sure the rubber gasket came off the engine.
6) Loosen and remove the oil drain plug, on the back of the engine's oil pan.
7) Allow all oil to drain from engine.
8) While oil is draining, open the new oil filter box, and open a bottle of oil. Dip your finger into the oil, and rub oil liberally on the rubber gasket of the oil filter. Make sure there is a good coat of oil on it.
9) When oil is finished draining, install the new oil filter per the directions on the box and/or filter itself. It doesn't need to be installed "He-Man" tight, nor should it be!
10) Replace oil drain plug
11) Add about 4 Quarts of oil. Install oil filler cap.
12) Back down off the ramps or lower the jack.
13) Start the engine up, let it run for about a minute. While it's running, get out and check for dripping oil or leaks under the car.
14) Stop the engine, let it sit for a minute, then check your oil level. It should be about 1/2 Quart low. add oil until dipstick reads "Full".
15) Close hood, and enjoy!

"Remove the oil filter with the oil drain pan located beneath it." Huh?

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:

Originally posted by TronX:

Why would I put the plug back in before the filter?
Wait! I should know this... because I'll need to move the oil pan?

no ... I see no reason that the plug has to be back in before putting a new filter on... and what do you mean move the oil pan?

Ahh.. not the oil pan on the car. The ummmm.. thing that you use to collect the oil.

So I should pull the plug first and then the filter?

98 Mercury Mystique 2.0L 4Cyl

Thought you meant oil pan ,,, not a pan bought from wal mart to hold used oil. ...... It doesnt matter where it is when removing the filter, that oil is gonna hit the suspension stuff before making it to the ground. Put some rags or something there to catch the oil.

I think my oil change sequence is about normal.

Optional:
Jack up car on passenger side or use ramps.
This makes it easy to work under the car. Otherwise, it's pretty cramped under there.

1.
Remove oil cap on valve cover.

2.
Put oil pan(one to capture the old oil) under oil plug.

3.
Remove oil plug and let oil drain.

4.
Install oil plug after drain.

5.
Get some shop paper towels or some oil rags and put them around the oil filter seal.
Don't be stingy either. You want to soak up as much oil as you can.
This will help capture most if not all the oil that will seep out when you loosen the
oil filter.

6
Move oil pan so it's under the filter to catch any oil that
might not get absorbed by the towels/rags.

*************************************************************************
Optional step: Poke hole in oil filter with phillips screwdriver and let it drain to oil pan.
*************************************************************************

7.
Remove oil filter slowly. Don't let it drop and try to hold it with the hole toward the top when it's fully unscewed
so no oil leaks out. Yes, some oil is still in there.

8.
Put old oil filter in oil pan or in the oil filter box that came with the new oil filter.

9.
Wipe down the oil filter/pump ring on the engine with a clean rag.
Also, make sure the old oil filter gasket didn't get stuck on there. It's happened to me once.

10.
Take some fresh oil and put it in the oil container cap and then using your finger, take some oil from the cap and oil up the new oil filter gasket.
Circle the gasket a few times to assure there is sufficient oil on the gasket. It doesn't need to be soaked but make sure it's got oil on the entire gasket seal.

11.
Install new oil filter. Hand tighten then about a 1/4 turn with the oil filter wrench. Don't over tighten the oil filter.
Usually, the directions on the oil filter or oil filter box will tell you the same thing.

12.
Remove oil pan with old oil from under the car.

13.
Wipe off any oil that may have leaked on to ANYTHING or else you'll be smelling burning oil later...

14.
Pour in the new oil.

I've got the oil out, but ran into a problem when my adjustable oil filter tool would not go around the filter because of the alt in the way. Having someone run up to the store now to get a normal oil filter tool. This car us such a pain to get up in those tight spots. Now I know why Superlube would always remove my surp belt to get more room.

Oil filter wrenches aren't really required unless you take it to oil change places. They reef on them, while it should only take about 1/4 turn after it touches. Snug as a bug in rug.

It's just on there too tight to remove by hand. She got back with the right one, but it was too big for these small filters. So she is running backup to the store before they close. I'm really thinking hard about stabing this sucker with something and spining it around.

This car makes me want to buy a small truck. Still waiting.. her cell phone is off. God it's killing me having to wait and now it's dark outside.

Yeah just stab it. I've never needed to do it, but recall someone mentioning it.

EDIT: Here is one reference....

Clicky

LOL.. She came back with the right tool this time. Next time I should just go up there and do it myself..hah!

She said the guy was laughing when he asked "what kind of car is was"? And she said it was a "Mercury Mercury, hell I don't know?" Then she drove off and got half way to find out that part was still at the store. They were closing the doors and she had to talk her way back in to get it off the counter.

The filter came off fine with a few pulls. Did all the smearing of the seals and put the new one on back on. Plugged everything up good a tight. Filled the oil to the mark. Then drove around for a while. Checked and checked and don't see any leaks.

This is the funny part. I checked the oil when the car was runnings and I was like, "WTF how can there be so much oil in there!" I then turned off the car and came back 5 minutes later the check for leaks and then checked the oil level and it was right on the full marker line... WOOT!

I've popped my first car oil filter cherry!

NEVER check your oil while the car is running.

Originally posted by mystique97:
NEVER check your oil while the car is running.

Now you tell me.

I've taken the car out on the highway a few times and it runs good.

Do they sell a testing strip that checks oil?

Originally posted by TronX:

Originally posted by mystique97:
NEVER check your oil while the car is running.

Now you tell me.

There is a story that this reminds me of, one cold morning my sister goes out (this is when she had the 89 dodge aries) she started up the dodge to warm it up comes back in and 15 minutes later, going to school, well we notice this puddle of oil under the car we tell my dad and she runs to shut the car off. Well my dad had her pop the hood and the dip stick was hanging out of the hole and oil was dripping off in places, so apartly some how it shot the dip stick off and spewed out oil. Kinda weird.

Originally posted by mystique97:

Originally posted by TronX:

Originally posted by mystique97:
NEVER check your oil while the car is running.

Now you tell me.

There is a story that this reminds me of, one cold morning my sister goes out (this is when she had the 89 dodge aries) she started up the dodge to warm it up comes back in and 15 minutes later, going to school, well we notice this puddle of oil under the car we tell my dad and she runs to shut the car off. Well my dad had her pop the hood and the dip stick was hanging out of the hole and oil was dripping off in places, so apartly some how it shot the dip stick off and spewed out oil. Kinda weird.

There must have been a lot of pressure or someone didn't put it back on right?

I wanna know too. The only time an engine has ever spewed oil at me is when I tried to add it when the car was running. I don't know what the heck I was thinking...

Originally posted by TronX:
I'm really thinking hard about stabing this sucker with something and spining it around.

I just did this last week for my sister-in-law. That !@#$ filter was on there TIGHT! Also, one other thing I forgot to mention in the post above... Are people just jacking up their car and getting under them?!? Isn't that kinda dumb? Or am I misunderstanding what they're saying?

I use a hydrolic jack and then place a 2-ton jackstand under there to for added safety. You should never rely on a floor jack/hydrolic jack to hold the car for you.
It's main purpose is jacking, not holding up the car.

I've changed the oil on my 03 Focus/Zetec and it's pain but at least you can get an oil filter wrench in there.

All I can say is... Wow....WTF was Ford thinking with the Contour Zetec ???

There's probably no way an oil filter wrench is getting on there, more less your hand getting enough room to move the oil filter.

Well, with some persistance, I got the filter off by hand.

What a PITA !!!!!

Getting it back on wasn't that bad but man, I must say that's the worst spot for an oil filter on any car I've ever worked on.

Anyway, I used a Motorcraft Fl-2005 and that new Mobil 5000/6 month oil, which isn't synthetic but only $1.50 a quart a Walmart.

Also, my local Walmart is phasing out Motorcraft parts...
Now, I need to find my Fl-2005 somewhere else.

Anyway, anyone attempting to do this for the first time, be prepared for some anguish and torement from the mighty Contour Zetec. If you're lucky, you'll be spared some cuts, nicks and rashes from getting your hand inside the oil filter area...

Make sure to have a wide oil pan to catch all the oil that's going to drip/come forth when you turn the oil filter. I used some oil rages(4 to be exact) and it still didn't absorb all the oil that came out of the filter...

Good luck and be patient.

Originally posted by Tisby:

Originally posted by TronX:
I'm really thinking hard about stabing this sucker with something and spining it around.

I just did this last week for my sister-in-law. That !@#$ filter was on there TIGHT! Also, one other thing I forgot to mention in the post above... Are people just jacking up their car and getting under them?!? Isn't that kinda dumb? Or am I misunderstanding what they're saying?

I use large ramps and wheel locks so long as the tires are not coming off the car.

Originally posted by TronX:

I use large ramps and wheel locks so long as the tires are not coming off the car.

In addition, I can remove the oil filter from up top.

And don't do what I did, and leave the old gasket on the car.... once

Originally posted by Cris'pus:

Originally posted by TronX:

I use large ramps and wheel locks so long as the tires are not coming off the car.

In addition, I can remove the oil filter from up top.

And don't do what I did, and leave the old gasket on the car.... once

Are you talking about the old gasket around the oil filter?
Why would that stay on he car?

I've had Zero problems after my oil change. If anything the car feels better and idles better. Then again that could just be my over focus on the car?

I got the mobile1 that says will last 15K. I'm just not sure I should trust it that long. Is there an oil tester kit I can buy with strips to keep on hand every 5K miles?

That oil sure did cost alot of money, but my feeling is that the car seems to be running better and it's still cheaper than superlube.

Originally posted by TronX:

Are you talking about the old gasket around the oil filter?
Why would that stay on he car?

I got the mobile 1 that says will last 15K. I'm just not sure I should trust it that long. Is there an oil tester kit I can buy with strips to keep on hand every 5K miles?

Yeah, well the old one instead of coming off with the old filter, stayed on the engine and I didn't notice it. SO the new filter obviously wouldn't be able to have a good seal and oil spewed.
And that's not good after you think you've just replaced the timing belt, I thought I broke the engine, phew.

What the synthetic oil actually does is not break down at the common 5K interval. Changing it at 5K helps reduce wear because the oil hasn't broken down to allow such wear. So it lasts 15K but by then it is breaking down and isn't lubricating as it needs to and allows engine wear.