UIM/LIM/headers gone bad...

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

So anyway, lemme remind whoever hasn't done it that headers are a total PITA!!!

However, those are the least of my problems since I was able to get everything tight, with the custom dual exhaust setup instead of a Y pipe lining up with the W-R headers (yeah yeah, the rear one comes down at a different angle...) being the biggest PITA of that job. Getting the EGR tube to go where I wanted it was a pain also, but I got it done.

Anyway... I lost/broke a couple bolts... Lost one of the EGR bolts, but the pressure from the tube holds it in place for now. Broke 2 of the throttle body bolts (guess they can't stand up to being in/out a few times, even with the correct torque).

Found 1 bolt on the UIM holding the throttle bracket on that will hold the TB in place until I get 4 new bolts.

However, I ran into a weird problem. The TB gasket I got from Bill Jenkins has a square hole on one end. If I put it to where the square hole was up, the little passageways at the top could suck unmetered air past the TB. Putting it down helped, but I still think my TB is missing something at the top.

I'll take pictures of that tonight and see what you guys think.

Now for the other issue. My car won't idle at all! Upon starting, it will rev to 2500RPM and hold for a while, then drop to 750 (really rough I might add), but as soon as you touch the gas, it's back up to 2500 for a while.

Last night I was driving home from work, and was checking it out some more. Between shifting gears if I blipped the gas, it would rev to 3200 RPM and hold until I let the clutch back out.

Other thing I noticed is that sometimes it will rev between 750 and 2500 continuously.

Unplugging the IAC causes a super rough 750RPM idle (no 2500, 3200, or wavering idle).

So do you guys thing that me cleaning the IAC made it worse than it was before? (500RPM idle, stall sometimes, etc)

Oh, and CEL turned back on after the drive cycle, so now I guess I better buy a scanner and see what it says (since the shop on base charges $35 to read your codes).

Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
...However, I ran into a weird problem. The TB gasket I got from Bill Jenkins has a square hole on one end. If I put it to where the square hole was up, the little passageways at the top could suck unmetered air past the TB. Putting it down helped, but I still think my TB is missing something at the top.
....

Check the part number.

regular Duratec(non SVT)
F5RZ-9E936-A

SVT
F5DZ-9E936-AE

Hmm...you've got an SVT, so if you've got the SVT throttle body gasket (sounds like what you described), then maybe you just need to flip it around a time or two to get it lined up right with the UIM. When I did my intake manifolds, I got the SVT TB gasket by mistake (I have a '97SE), but even after I got the proper one, I installed it upside down at first.

I know when I did my cleaning, it freed up a lot of airflow and it idled high as hell for a while. I adjusted the throttle cable (it has a little clip along a ribbed section, just give it some more slack) and it was all better.

I should add that at the top of the TB/UIM interface, the gasket should not protrude at all. It's contoured to match the curvature there. If you've got some sticking up, you definitely have it in the wrong way.

Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:
I should add that at the top of the TB/UIM interface, the gasket should not protrude at all. It's contoured to match the curvature there. If you've got some sticking up, you definitely have it in the wrong way.

I flipped it so that the square hole was down... if it was up, car would just race to the redline since air could bypass the TB.

After doing a bit of digging today during lunch, I noticed a small vacuum leak coming from the area of the EGR (probly the missing bolt). I also unplugged the IAC valve, and now it just dies while driving (so I have to 3 foot it

), but it's better than sitting at a light doing 2500RPM.

So I'm going to assume that I fubared the IAC valve when I cleaned it... Guess I'll order a new one along with the missing/broken bolts to complete the job.

I really wish I had a 2nd car to drive so I can park the SVT and work on it...

Do you have an EGR gasket? Don't ask why I'm questioning that.

Mark

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Do you have an EGR gasket? Don't ask why I'm questioning that.

Mark

Yeah, there's a gasket... I did a full gasket change... some of them were literally gone with just traces left.

Ok, driving it some more now, has weird symptoms.

So I'll drive it to work and have no problems (well, other than it not wanting to idle). The A/F ratio guage reads normally during this time.

While driving home from work, the car will seriously misfire under 2500RPM... while in gear doing less than 2500, the car will have no power and chug, but as soon as it gets over that, car will pick up. The A/F ratio guage reads off the scale on the lean side during this time...

Guess I'll pick me up an IAC and those bolts for the TB/EGR from Bill.

Well I can tell you why its running lean, you have post MAF leaks like crazy with all those missing bolts. That may be causing the other problems as well, but Im not sure. I would bet that the leaks are the cause of at least some of your problems, however. Once everything gets put back together properly then let us know how it runs.

Ok, figured out the random misfire problem!

This little sensor with the part number F6AF-18801-AA that has 1 wire going to it (that's covered in a loom) with a little metal bracket with a hole in it was dangling near the coil pack...

Appears that the bracket is secured with the passeneger-side front bolt of the coil pack (and also gets it's ground signal that way).

So now the car runs nice and smooth, but I still need an IAC valve since mine is shot from the B12 cleaning.

After that, car should run perfect!

Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
..This little sensor with the part number F6AF-18801-AA that has 1 wire going to it (that's covered in a loom) with a little metal bracket with a hole in it was dangling near the coil pack...

Appears that the bracket is secured with the passeneger-side front bolt of the coil pack (and also gets it's ground signal that way).
..

Radio capacitor.

"TAKE NOTE that there are two seperate items that were also secure by two of those four bolts.. the radio noise suppressor is on one side (small grey-ish plastic clip with a metal braket on it) and a ground strap on the other... REMEMBER THIS.." Ray (from Alternator R and R)

What does this capacitor do?

Is it blocking the ignition system from creating harmful radio waves, or is it blocking harmful radio waves from interfering with the radio system?

The high idle is due to the TPS sensor going bad. You might have to pick a new one up.

most of the time if between shifts it holds rvs for more than 3 seconds it is the tps. On my svt it would hold a rev for like 6 secs i was like wtf.

Also on idle it would idle high and sit at a high idle for ever. pretty much

Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
What does this capacitor do?

Is it blocking the ignition system from creating harmful radio waves, or is it blocking harmful radio waves from interfering with the radio system?

It is supposed to block interference to the radio caused by "waves" from the ignition coil. In your case, the ground was attached to the same bolt and leaving the Radio Ignition Interference Capacitor (RIIC) out meant no ground for the ignition coil.

If you look at this diagram from Autozone and the description from Ray's Alternator how-to, the ground and RIIC are supposed to be in two different bolts. So technically, if the ground is on and the RIIC is not on, the car should start. You will just have the radio interference which sounds like a "thud, thud, thud,....".
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/c4/02/0900823d801bc402.jsp

Originally posted by Rickson:
The high idle is due to the TPS sensor going bad. You might have to pick a new one up.

most of the time if between shifts it holds rvs for more than 3 seconds it is the tps. On my svt it would hold a rev for like 6 secs i was like wtf.

Also on idle it would idle high and sit at a high idle for ever. pretty much

Symptoms are identical to mine with the IAC plugged in. Note I've been having to do this for a while now with a vacuum leak and I was assuming the IAC being gummed up. Now the B12 ate my IAC because it's worse than before (but at least I got rid of my vacuum leak!)

However, If I unplug the IAC, no more high revs, but I have to 2 foot it at a stop (or if I'm in gear, have to tilt my foot a bit on the brake pedal).

Car runs perfect except the idle issue, which I will make an educated guess is the IAC.

Originally posted by Tony2005:
If you look at this diagram from Autozone and the description from Ray's Alternator how-to, the ground and RIIC are supposed to be in two different bolts. So technically, if the ground is on and the RIIC is not on, the car should start.

I remembered to put the ground strap on, but not the RIIC since it had fallen behind where I couldn't see it.

They're on different bolts, the ground strap is on the driver side front bolt, the RIIC on the passenger side front bolt.

Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
...
Originally posted by Tony2005:
If you look at this diagram from Autozone and the description from Ray's Alternator how-to, the ground and RIIC are supposed to be in two different bolts. So technically, if the ground is on and the RIIC is not on, the car should start.

I remembered to put the ground strap on, but not the RIIC since it had fallen behind where I couldn't see it.

They're on different bolts, the ground strap is on the driver side front bolt, the RIIC on the passenger side front bolt.

Hmmm....then maybe I was wrong about the "waves" from the ignition causing problems with the radio. Maybe it it the magnetic "waves" from the alternator causing interference to the ignition (and radio)? I have always remembered since young that if you had issues with the radio reception in the car (if it is not a problem with the antenna), to first change the "filter capacitor" for the radio. Maybe some expert RF CEGer can chime in with their thoughts.

All I know is that noise in a stereo is ignition noise...

I didn't notice any noise in the radio while it was like that, so I think you may be right about it blocking harmful interference TO the ignition system...

I need new wires (the Magnecores are getting pretty dirty, and have at least 30,000 miles on them)... but I'm waiting for that Accel coil to come out on SP and change it all at once.

Oh, and my spark plugs... they looked very normal when I pulled them out.