Tip #1 Electric Powered Leaf Blower & Spot Free Dry.
I was cleaning the roof of my house with an Electric Powered Leaf Blower. After getting junk all over my car the idea came to me. So I washed the car as normal and at the very end I turned on the leaf blower for a spot free dry!
The guy next door was looking at me funny like I'd lost my mind. But how many times have you washed your car only to have water spots? How many times have you used the wrong soap in a Mr.Clean Spot free spayer only to end up with a sticky mess on your hands? Well, then what you need is a handy-dandy Electric Powered Leaf Blower!
-Jared (TronX)
I own a Toro 215 Mph Electric Blower 51591 from Lowes. The same could be had for around 59$ at Sears. It really does not matter what you get so long as it has power and is light enough to pickup.
Yup; one of my brother's neighbors details cars at his home and that's what he uses for a spot-free wash and dry. (They live in Arizona.) If you go to the commercial car washes down there, they use pressurized air to blow off the excess water as a final detail.
Maybe the leaf blower isn't as elegant, but it does the job!
A gas one would work best, more power.
More powerful than most gas blowers. 51591 and 51598 both under $100.00 I use my 51591 every time I wash one of our cars, but just to get the water out of the nooks and crannys.
i've used a leaf blower to blow out the interior of my car before, never to dry the outside though.
NEver thought about the "leaf blower" dryer. However, thats basically what a no touch dryer is...
I use my compressor with a blow out nozzle to get the water off.. works awesome, especailly on the interior.
I used an electric leaf blower in the snow to clean off my tour
no really I did. it was stupid idea because the cord was sitting in the snow and water + electric = cripsy CEGer. but it did work! hahaah
What happened to a good old fasion hand dry? I don't use any automatic washes, nor would I use a leaf blower. Too much sand and dirt particles that can be blown off the ground and onto the paint. Unless you like fine scratches that you get to buff out every month.
Mark
I always hand dry using terry clothes. I use the air to spray the water out of the wipe rcowl, the wheel wells, creveces, etc. It's rewarding to hand dry the car.
Y2KSVT is right. After you wash your car, blot it dry with an all-cotton towel (don't drag the towel across the paint) and then gently dry off the remaining water with a microfiber towel.
No matter how careful you are with the blower, it's gonna stir up dust and grit from the ground.
Well said Caltour. I wasn't going to go down that road of "detailers do this and that", but now that you mention it
. And that's not to say ALL detailers have the same practices. I'm not a professional detailer by trade, but I'm pretty anal when it comes to the paint on my car. Just because detailing cars is someone's occupation, doesn't make them an expert.
Mark
Lord C'mon Guys..
Don't knock it until you try it first. There was ZERO grit or dirt on my car before or after. There is only so much you can do with a blower, the rest is done with towels.
Let us think this out first.
I am almost sure the single best way to kill a paint finish is to never wash your car period.
You can put swirl mark into the finish if you don't change wash rags and use the wrong soaps.
When I used the blower it was at a down angle from the top. I then moved my way around the car doing the windows. And finished with the hood and trunk. The bottom was done with towels to avoid kicking dirt. Not that this was a problem after having just used it to clean the yard and roof hours before.
For those willing to try, give me your feed back. For everone else, we heard your side already, get over it.
ONCE AGAIN.. I don't care if it was onlt $50 to buy the freakin' car.. its still a car, and people with the mentality like the one posted above is a good portion of why we have "beaters" and nobody parks next to them, etc.
TAKE CARE OF ANY car.. who cares what it "is" or how old..
My car is pushing 7.. does that mean I am not a "true car guy"?
I wax my car once a week, regardless.. rain or shine.
wash it at least three times a week, and EVERY DAY I use detailers spray, and go over the entire car.. (including ALL door edges (open the door, and look at the painted locations on the inside edge).. EVERYWHERE there is paint, I wax... and detail once a day.
I don't get some peoples philosophy of "it's only money" or "its old, who cares..."
HOW do you think your beater GOT to be crappy looking? by not taking care of it when it was NEW...
Ray
Either that is Ghetto or redneck!!! sounds like something we would do up here, where we all rednecks and do stipid tings like this but i like this one. that is sweet!!! just gotta get me a leaf blower now.
I use my leaf blower to clean off my truck but its almost 15 years old and goes off-road so who cares, however, it still leaves no scratches In the end it all comes down to its your car so do what YOU want as for me i'll continue to use my leaf blower to blow grass of clients sidewalks to dry my car and to fan bonfires with extra air.
I'd like to be the first to say WTF is your problem? Your mentality is the one in question here tonight. We are talking about drying a car with a leaf blower and you are going off the deep end. My 98 car looks nice for its age, almost brand new after a wax. If I didn't think this was a fun and cool thing worth trying I would not post this information. If you have nothing else to add then please step down from the soap box.
Originally posted by Ray:
ONCE AGAIN.. I don't care if it was onlt $50 to buy the freakin' car.. its still a car, and people with the mentality like the one posted above is a good portion of why we have "beaters" and nobody parks next to them, etc.
TAKE CARE OF ANY car.. who cares what it "is" or how old..
My car is pushing 7.. does that mean I am not a "true car guy"?
I wax my car once a week, regardless.. rain or shine.
wash it at least three times a week, and EVERY DAY I use detailers spray, and go over the entire car.. (including ALL door edges (open the door, and look at the painted locations on the inside edge).. EVERYWHERE there is paint, I wax... and detail once a day.
I don't get some peoples philosophy of "it's only money" or "its old, who cares..."
HOW do you think your beater GOT to be crappy looking? by not taking care of it when it was NEW...
Ray
Thanks, SAV..
(I give you yer dollar tomorrow..)
I am glad that SOMEONE notices, though...The wife says I wax my car more than her A$$... We won't go in to detail on what happens next.. LOL
We can, unfortunately, agree to disagree(I guess). I like to take care of my car, much more thoroughly and more often than you like to do on your car. Each of us for different reasons, and that is understandable. Whatever works for you, my friend.
Ray
*sheen.. sparkle sparkle*
Little off topic but I think this thread has gone downhill in a rocketship fast enough so I will ask.
Originally posted by SAV:
You don't know brand new until you see Ray's comprehensive list of car care practice.
I for one would really like to know what rays routine for waxing is i.e what products, in which order, how many coats etc.
When I wax I use aprox 3-4 diffent kinds of waxes, glaze,polish, color brightener etc. and while it looks amazing when Im done Im not sure if I'm doing the order right. I have read somethings will remove all the wax/polish etc. that you have put on. Which is why I dont want to do the wrong order and be waisting my time and effort.
So Ray, please enlighten me on which products you use and what order etc.
Thanks
Okay... a write up.
By today's standards, the multi-layered finish on your car is only .004 to .006 inches thick (primer all the way to clearcoat) This finish will deteriorate and dull over time.
Choosing a wax:
Carnauba based waxes add an element of depth and warmth.
Synthetic polymer sealants containing silicon add brilliance and sparkle.
CARNAUBA PROS:
Carnuba waxes tend to produce a deeper, darker, richer shine that is often described as "three-dimensional" Many show-car owners prefer the shine of carnauba waxes, especially on black, red, or other dark colors. They bead water nicely, absorb acid from rain, and hid minor swirls in the paint.
CARNAUBA CONS:
Not as durable as synthetic waxes(actually a sealant) Depending on climate, they can last up to 2 months. Some carnauba waxes can be much more difficult to apply or remove than polymers. They can also streak under certain temperature or humidity conditions... haha.. a temperamental liquid!
CARNAUBA SELECTION
Meguiars No.26 Pure Wax
One Grand Blitz Wax
P21S Paste Car Wax
and Pinnacle Paste Glaz
Pinnacle Souveran is a true show-car wax.
SYNTHETIC SEALENTS:
PROS: Made from acrylic resins, sealents offer excellent durability and ease of application. Quality sealants can last six to nine months or longer and typically wipe on and off very easily. Sealants create a very bright shine and are resistant to clouding and streaking.
SYNTHETIC CONS:
Many enthusiasts feel that sealants lack depth and richness. Black cars can look a little sterile or silvery in the direct sunlight. And, mirror-like polymers can collect minor swirls and highlight paint flaws.
Synthetic Selection:
Blackfire*
Klasse*
Autoglym*
Meguiars No.20 Poly Sealant and Zaino.
* A multi-part product. 1st being cleaner/polish and base sealant. 2nd being a top coat sealant that is layerable to produce more depth and shine. Meguiars is unique in that it combines polymers and waxes. Zaino and Blackfire compete head-to-head as the best "car-show polish" systems. Zaino is different from its competitors in that it doesn't make an abrasive polish or cleaner to prepare the paint for sealant. This must be done with another detergent concentrate, or paint cleaning clay. (clay bar)
Now.. on to Applying the wax.
1. Work in shaded area out of direct sunlight.
2. Use a foam applicator pad to apply your wax. When the pad becomes caked with wax, switch to a fresh pad
3. Work on one area at a time covering two to four square feet. Some products may allow you to coat the entire car before buffing off, but most do not.
4. Follow the wax manufacturer's instructions whether or not to allow the wax to dry (haze) before buffing.
5. Use a small amount of wax at a time and rub it in well. If you use too much wax, you're wasting the product and your time.
6. If wax residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean wipe towel (100% terry cloth, or microfiber)
7. Apply your wax in a back and forth motion, not in circles. IF you are creating swirls, you need to replace your applicator, or buffing towels.
The car should feel slick and smooth; free of streaks and smudges.
If you work tirelessly and you still have streaks and areas that don't want to buff out perfectly: park your car in the sun for 10-15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, then take it back in the garage(shade). Next, use a good spray bottle and DISTILLED WATER (not tap/hose water), spritz the area and buff with a clean terry towel. The warmth of the sun softens the wax and allows it buff out to a clear, high gloss. If you don't have distilled water, use a detailing spray, such as Meguiars Final Inspection, or Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl. If you are using a more "enthusiast" product such as Zaino, or Blackfire, use the detailing spray that was formulated for that product.
SHOW CAR TRICKS:
When preparing a SHOW CAR shine, I often layer a Carnauba wax on top of synthetic wax. The synthetic acts as a gloss layer, and the carnauba adds depth and a wet looking appearance. One combination that works well is an initial coating of Klasse All-in-one followed by one or more coats of Pinnacle Paste Glaz or Souveran wax. The latter two waxes are super-rich and can be layered (like a polymer) without yellowing effects.
Start with a cream wax. Most are designed to go on and buff off easily.
Apply and buff the first coat of wax, as normal, and allow it to cure for 12-48 hours. Follow with a second coat. Note that the first coat of wax must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure(harden), the second coat will not improve your car's appearance OR protection. Properly applied, you will see a noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color, and gloss with the second coat. Additional layers are subjective to most people, though concours winners use many layers to produce the desired depth.
Most people think that polishing and waxing are synonymous. The fact is, however, that they are totally different. Polishing is what is done to the paint surface BEFORE waxing is performed. If the paint surface is dirty, rough, or contaminated, then the wax/sealents will only provide a temporary gloss to a dull paint. IF you would like to make a lasting shine, you have to have something decent to work with. Polishing lotions, and liquids contain cleaners to strip acid, dirt, and oxidation from the surface of the paint. The line is somewhat blurry between "polish" liquids, and "wax" liquids, however, as both have manufacturers who have added SOME key actions from both sides of the fence. (A wax that slightly polishes, or a polish that slighty waxes, etc)
Use a good polishing lotion, or clay bar before waxing, and the clean paint should feel like silk (with NO wax on the car)
Good luck in your future efforts.. and don't hesitate to ask any questions.
Ray
This would be useful in the how-to's.