I am in the process of troubleshooting a misfire in my car right now. I am wondering if it is possible to put my 30# injectors in my car without the chip that I had burned for them. I was going to put the injectors in because I had a service verify the injectors as well as clean them and put new filters in them. All I want to see is if the idle will be correct. Probably not but I have to ask. I am starting to believe I have some sort of problem with my ecu. The car had 3 dead cylinders with the 30's and the S.F. chip. with the 19's it has 1 misfiring cylinder and thats on the Vortec burned chip. It didn't have these problems before but then again its been sitting for 4 months and the ECU went on a trip to Arizona and back. So will it be ok to run the 30's with the stock ECU for idle only?

no it won't, it will feed approx 50% more fuel than the engine should get.

Isn't there an issue with the coil-pack on our cars? I know the wires caused me one hell of a problem some months back. Just a question...

I have a brand new coil pack now. I'm thinking I'm just going to put the 30's in it and fire it up with the tuned chip for them. Then if I still have a miss fire I am going to pull the chip with the 30's in and see if it idles without a misfire. Unless all that fuel is going to make 6 misfires So basically I am going to go thru the same procedure my mechanic did yesterday. But, they say If you want something done right do it yourself.

The car won't idle with the 30's...at least not for long and it will run rich and misfire.
Chances are you need to check/change the plugs for fuel fouling and check/change the wires.

Even though the chip is tuned for 30's, that isn't the end of the story. Is the MAF stock? You will have to install the chip and injectors, then use an obd scanner to verify long-term and short-term fuel trims to see if it is running too rich or too lean at idle. Not all MAF's from the same year are actually calibrated the same so that could be an issue right there.

This is a perfect example of why I run an emanage piggyback with my chip just to make small fine-tuning adjustments for the air-fuel and improve idle quality. The datalogging is a big help too.

war...

Long Story Short:

I fixed the car mysef, It was the injector. I don't know why the mechanic didn't find this when he swapped the injectors. I'll never go to a mechanic again, Shadetree from here on out. My 30's were good the whole time with the Street Flight chip. Happy as hell I hopped in the car to go for a cruise to test it out. Got 1/4 mile down the street and the tranny broke. Wouldn't get out of third gear. Secondaries didn't even open, I babied the clutch too. I drive around the block stuck in third gear. Get home and diagnose that most likely a internal problem has occured in my brand new beefcake HMS Trans. Car won't shift. I'm down for another couple months.

OUCH! Maybe its a shift cable? or the shift tower perhaps.
If you turn the steering wheel fully right and look through the left front wheel well at the trans you can see where the cables connect to the shift tower. Have someone move the stick around and you should see the cables moving the shift tower levers. If both aren't moving then its probably a broken cable. if both are moving then you can pull the shift tower and easily look inside the transmission to see whats up. Sounds like a cable or a tower to me though it is possible that it could be further in the transmission.

Good luck.

I did what you had said as soon as I got home. I figured mabey one of the plastic clips broke. Which the small one came off but I would assume thats the reverse linkage. If I shift the tower by hand (focus shift tower) the stick moves too. The stick won't stay in the gear you put it in but you can hear the tranny clicking and see the tower miving back and forth, it doesn't move left or right. So now it seems I can get it in first and nuetral only. So If It is first gear and I have to pull the trans I am going to fix the secondarie linkage and rip down the street in first like no other before I pull the trans. But We'll see what the real deal is. Terry is going to call me soon, so he should know right off the bat what happend. After all this though i decided if the trans comes out I am going to do it myself most likely. I have a honda that gets me around so there really is no need to pay someone to fix my hotrod/new hobby. I have learned quite abit in the last few months watching the mechanic work and I am by no means not a mechanic my self. I build precision machines for a living as well as calibrating and verifying the accuricy of sub micron-machines. The svt will be a piece of cake.

I talked to Terry. Its not shifting because of the small cable end. I thought it was a reverse deal but its not so I learned something good today. He walked me through the procedure to put it back on and adjust it. Once again I will not go to a mechanic. Even the best mechanics stumble sometimes. usually with me. Anyways, I have to go to north carolina until tommorow night and then I will do the procedure and test it out. The only other thing that is of concern is whether or not the tranny was damaged in the short amount of drive time. I doubt it but my luck is not great so far. I'll let you all know. Thanks
Brandon

Cool. Glad to hear you have a plan. I was going to say that there are two cables, one that selects the different shift fork, and one that pushes the shift fork back and forth. In the neutral position it moves the 3-4 shift fork between 3-4 and only utilizes the "shifting cable" The other cable, sort of a "shift fork selection cable" just moves the lever into position for either 1-2, 3-4, and 5-R
The shift tower is spring loaded so it should have defaulted to the 3-4 shifting if the "shift fork selector cable" were broken. If you can get it into 1st, then your shifting cable is also not likely to be broken.
This means that its probably the plastic retaining clips that are used to lock the shift cables when you adjust the shifter position. On my car the plastic couplers are white with a black bushing and pop onto the the shift tower levers via a ball joint. The white plastic coupler has an Orange friction clip that allows the end of the cable to slide inside it just a little bit for adjustment, if/when it is popped loose. Once the clip is pressed in it locks the cable from moving.

If one or both of these clips popped out then it would explain your problem. Otherwise its in the trans.

warmonger

Well, I got underneath and adjusted the side to side cable while my friend held the gear selector in nuetral. I adjusted it and put the end on the ball. After a few shifts the connector pops off the ball. I have to turn the cable and connector 45 degrees or so in the up position so mabey that is pulling the end off. But being a ball joint i wouldn't figure that mattered. I just cant get the end to stay on. I mean this isn't rocket science or anything. I push it on and it falls off after a few shifts. I did this many times and I know I have the cable set at the right length. War, the way you described your ends is the same type that I have. Did you have to bend the whole cable and end to get it to snap on the ball? Or was the end facing the ball perfectly?

There is a mounting bracket that bolts to the diff case and holds the cables in it.
If the cables are in the bracket then they should be lined up reasonably close to the shift tower levers. The cable shouldn't have to be bent, but the connector may have to be rotated to line it up. They do take quite a bit of force to push on and there is a black bushing in the connector that is somewhat flexible but still holds the connector onto the ball joint.
I would say that if you have to bend the cable 45 degrees then it probably isn't in its mounting bracket. Is the bracket present or missing?

well, the cable doesn't bend. I just have to rotate the connector to get it on. I just took it out for a spin and I can tell that it is still mis-aligned because in first gear it looks like it is in between first and second gears. It's the same for all the other gears also. It pops off everytime I put it in reverse also. That right there tells me its mis-aligned because thats the furthest that the gear sellector has to move to the right.

Now, when the shifter is in neutral between third and fourth gears it looks straight. Thats how I checked the length of the connector when I adjusted it. It maight still be a little off. It's not as easy as I thought it was going to be to do the adjustment.

Now the misfire is gone in the engine as far as I can tell. I took off the FMU because the S.F. chip wasn't made to use the fmu I believe. So I figured the car might run pretty good. I was wrong. Last night with the fmu on the car ran out of balls at 90 mph, just wouldn't go faster. Thats when I figured that the chip probably wasn't meant to be used witht he fmu. So this morning I took the fmu off and the car didn't just stop like it did last night but it has no balls.

When ever I get to about 3-4k rpm with half-throttle or so I get nasty backfire also. The car should be quicker than it used to but honestly I think I probably have only 100 HP or so at the wheels. Thats how slow it feels. I know the Zetec final drive is going to lose me some low end balls as well as my wide open exhaust (no cats). But even up high it is just a slug. I am pretty much lost. My brother said the back fire could be caused by a exhaust leak (we filled them at the shop), running lean (its possible, except it did it with the fmu set at 7:1 and S.F. chip, or the timing may not be right). I wonder if the timing chain skipped? Its really bad though and I have exhausted my limited knowledge on the subject. I really don't want to take it back to a shop. Its just to expensive to do and I do have a honda to get me around. How can I tell if the timing is right? Would it trow a cel? Right now the only light on the ddash is the ABS light. I have had it running for a while and no CELs since I put in the S.F. chip and the 30# injectors. Thanks alot for the help.

Its possible that you hurt something in the engine, but sounds to me like you may be running overly rich.

Is the SF chip tuned to use the FMU, or is it tuned to use a set of larger injectors?
If you used the SF chip and it was tuned for use with an FMU BUT you did not use the FMU then you could have hurt something.
I think vortech runs too rich anyway for protection, so I'd guess that you may have fouled plugs. Check out your oil and make sure it doesn't smell like gas. If all these things come out negative, then unhook the intake for the supercharger and put your normal intake back on, pull all the chips and reset the pcm.
The supercharger will still turn but it won't be hooked up and you can test to see if the engine goes back to normal during your drive. If it operates normally then you have a tuning/fuel/spark issue when the vortech is hooked up.

As for the transmission, make sure you are pushing the connectors all the way on. You should see the ball joint pop through the connector once it is all the way on. Then you can take and adjust the linkage by popping out the orange retainers, center the stick with the trans in neutral, then pushing the clips back in. The only way the connectors wont stay on is if they are damaged or not pushed on all the way. Remember, they are a [censored] to push all the way in.

Tom

Tom,
I just took a plug out and it looks good. Then I smelled the oil and it does seem to smell like gas a little. It doesn't smell like straight up oil I don't think. I had my lady smell it and she said it smelled like oil. Then I told her to get closer and she said it smelled like gas. So what kind of damage is this? Anyone interested in buying a SVT?

edit: I did have a 19# injector that was stuck open for about 20 miles. Could this cause gas in the oil? The engine isn't blowing smoke either, it sounds real good at idle too. The last thing I know is the cars clock is all goofy, is this a sign of faulty chip or ecu? Sometimes the clock reads military time, sometimes it reads normal time. and the pats light flashes like crazy and then just stops. mostly it flashes all the time though. I am just getting ready to do a compresion check on all six right now so hopefully this reads out right.

An injector stuck open or leaking will put gas in the oil. The oil will then be too thin and not lubricate as well, plus it has harmful vapors. Doesn't seem so bad if you only smell a little gas, I'd just change it soon to be safe.

If all six plugs come out looking good and the compression test is fine then you have nothing to worry about as far as the engine.
The pats light flashing randomly is a sign that something is up with the chip or the way the chip is put in, i.e. not seated correctly.
Again, try running the car in a normal fashion without the SC hooked up so you can see whether or not that improves it or not.

War,
Ok, I did change the oil, i put in mobil 1 5-w30. I am nearly positive its a chip issue. I just took it out and the thing pulls all the way to 7600 rpm, I don't hear pinging or backfiring. When I let off the gas it pops a little but thats probably the unused fuel that is stuck in the combustion chamber. It used to rip the tires all the way through 1st even when I babied the clutch. now I really don't know how the car is supposed to feel. It has a lsd and zetec final drive so mabey it won't rip the tires. but it is still not nearly as quick as it used to be. Tommorow I will have the 19# injectors fixed at the fuel injection shop and put them + the vortec chip back in. If that doesn't make it run good than something else is wrong. Thanks alot for all your help warmonger.

No problem.
Remember, you have the tires and the lsd, AND its been how many months since you last ran it? Isn't it the dead of summer now??? That may be an indication. Were you boosting when you ran it to 7600 and how did you manage that without a chip?
Either way you have an A/F problem and you might as well put it back to stock vortech settings and start from there again.

tom

Yeah, I was boosting when I went above 7000 rpm. I did have the 30# injectors as well as the S.F. chip that was tuned for them. I just think its runnig extremely rich right now. Even when it idles there is a real rich smell coming out the exaust and the brandnew muffler tips are coated black. I might have to wait a couple days for 1 19# injector because the shop doesn't have one on hand. They are testing all the injectors now so I should have 5 good ones and then I'll get the other one. In the meantime I'll fix the shift linkage. I'll keep you posted. Thank you.

Brandon Stone

Whoa. Good luck with that man. Sounds like you have a serious A/F issue. Hope all works out with the 19# injectors! I'm new to this, so please don't laugh if I'm wrong, but aren't 30# injectors a bit extreme? I've been looking in the 3L forums, and seems like people there think the 24#s are excessive. I am sure you have all the proper documentation, but if you want a copy of the Ford service manuals regarding gearshift linkage, let me know! I have the entire Ford line from 1997-2003 on DVD, and I think I can pull off a copy in PDF format for you! Again, good luck!

Hell, I'd like the entire line on DVD too??

(hopefull looking)

You don't happen to have a dvd burner do you?

Thanks for the support, this is in S.F.'s hands now. I fixed the tranny linkages, I just needed to back the small linkage off about a 1/4 turn on the threads to make it straight with the ball it goes on. Street Flights doing up a new chip with two programs on it for me now so I should have it tommorow. I hope it works good man, otherwise I'll be putting the 19# injectors back in and running the Vortech chip.
Edit: I would definately like to get that manual on cd or DVD if possible.

Well fellas, as I hang my head in disgust I will relay to you what I believe the problem is after all this. The bypass valve was installed backwards . Now, I don't know much about engines, but I've learned alot lately, one being the correct operation of a simple valve. Now I feel stupid for not knowing this, but hey, there is no reason I should have known this, I paid a mechanic so I didn't have to think about that stuff. Now with my chip at S.F. I can't check the car out to see if it runs well with the bypass valve installed properly(it will). I called S.F. to talk to Keith about the chip and at the end of the call I asked him one last question about the bypass valve. 5 minutes later after my schooling and swearing we were both laughing. He is updating my chip and sending it back. I will know soon how the car runs. By the way, check her out in the pics and videos section . Thank you Warmonger for all the help, I know that alot of my questions were stupid but now you won't have to answer some of the stupid questions and I can. I guess thats one way this site works. So I will hope that this is the fix, I don't see any other issues as I have gone through everything else. So we'll see on friday. Once again, THANKS ALOT!!!!!!

Doh...


Hope everything works great when you get the chip back.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

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Doh...


Hope everything works great when you get the chip back.

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Sounds like something I'd do!!! Though I don't think I'd be that honest.
No,I probably would