What material are you using for an oil drain?

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I am still thinking of the finishing touches on my 2nd turbo set-up. What are you guys using? Anyone with copper pipe? Did you heat it to bend it? Anyone using just hose? and if so what kind are you using that doesn;t start to crimp and bend with the heat?

I was thinking of using some high-temp silicone line. Check out JGS Precision's Basic Turbo Drain Line Kit. Why risk destroying your engine with something that could crack or break?

HTH,
BP

Originally posted by stilov:
I am still thinking of the finishing touches on my 2nd turbo set-up. What are you guys using? Anyone with copper pipe? Did you heat it to bend it? Anyone using just hose? and if so what kind are you using that doesn;t start to crimp and bend with the heat?

I've had pictures up years ago and even recently of my drain.

The whole piece is copper pipe, 1/2" diameter with a compression fitting in the pan. You can unbolt it easily from the turbo and the pan and remove it. You have to use the pipe and buy the 45 degree and one 90 degree elbows. THen you use plumbing solder and a torch to put it all together. THe beauty of it is that the 1/2" compression fitting fit right into the turbo drain piece that came with my turbo and I just bought one with a 1/2" tubing exit, then I routed the pieces and pre assembled them since they are all slip-fit joints. I took about a half hour with a hacksaw and the elbows to make a nice sloping drain down to the pan, bypassing the exhaust, etc. Then once it is in place you just mark all the joints with a black sharpie with a line perpendicular to the joint seam. then pull it off and solder it all together. If it isn't right, or you need adjustment you just melt the solder and adjust till it fits.
Once complete it will last the life of the engine I'm sure.

so I made my copper return line for the turbo...honestly it took more than 30min... and I could barely get it around the headers...but barely works for me!!!! Then on with the down pipe!!!!

I just finished mine last night ... I will post up pictures later. I used a 45 desgree elbow, 1/2 NTP on one side, -10AN on the other. I tapped the block instead of the pan, just right of the oil filter/cooler assembly. I then ran a SS braided 1/2" tubing with -10AN ends. Took quite awhile because I had to use the fitting to thread the hole since I was unable to find a tap that large. When done, I plan on using some more QuickSteel to cold weld it to the outside of the block to elimnate the chance of oil seep through ... pictures will tell the story better than my descirption.

Originally posted by stilov:
so I made my copper return line for the turbo...honestly it took more than 30min... and I could barely get it around the headers...but barely works for me!!!! Then on with the down pipe!!!!

Well, if you were as good as I am, 30 min would be enough to do it twice.

J/k
It should work great.

Here you go: 3/4" hole in the block drilled

1/2" NPT on the block end, -10AN on the hose end. Hose is -10AN ... roughly 5/8".

I got the hose too short, so I will be returning this one and ordering one the proper length, but can't do so until I get the headers/up-pipe installed. Headers are on their way

I was gonna say...seems like a gutsy install to do before headers are on.

Plenty of room

Originally posted by fastcougar:
Plenty of room

I don't know, unless that is your manifold you are using. The clearances change a bit.
and as for the height, you many not have left a lot of room for drainage.
I also just hate cutting the block unless I had a really good plan for it, like welding on an aluminum nipple maybe.

Yikes on drilling the block.

That's the best spot, better than the pan. Why?
1) you are always higher than the oil level, so it will drain without allowing a backfill of the oil line.
2) the pan can be dropped without having to mess with lines.
3) The block is thicker than the pan, so it is tapped easier with less chance of cracking, AND there are more threads (less chance of leakage).

This is for you Todd

This is about the only spot on the block that I would attach to because it's the only galley that protrudes from the rest of the block on that side of the engine. I decided against tapping the pan for the reasons that Stazi noted. Also, I could always go with a 90 degree end and route the line just like the oil cooler lines. However, since my headers are based on the stock manifolds, I have no doubts about the clearance. Even if there was a clearance issue between the headers/drain tube, I have that covered as well. The headers are going to be JetHot 2000 coated, along with the up-pipe/down-pipe and turbine housing ... this engine bay is going to remain as cool as possible while having a turbo under there ... so, even if the SS braided line did touch the headers, it wouldn't melt the tubing behind the brading because the headers will be much cooler than normal.

Originally posted by Stazi:
That's the best spot, better than the pan. Why?
1) you are always higher than the oil level, so it will drain without allowing a backfill of the oil line.
2) the pan can be dropped without having to mess with lines.
3) The block is thicker than the pan, so it is tapped easier with less chance of cracking, AND there are more threads (less chance of leakage).

This is for you Todd

The block skirt is part of the strength of the engine rotating assembly, the pan has very little. Holes are stress risers and although it is likely that it is low there, I just wondered what would happen with regard to cracks and such.
I tapped the pan because the top edge of the pan always remains above oil level except under momentary circumstances and even then there is plenty of room in the tube to accept continued oil drainage. The car levels out and no issues.
There hasn't been a problem with drainage into the top of the pan. The only problems I've seen is not restricting high pressure oil going into the turbo.
Also, if there is a leak or if servicing is required, it is easier to unbolt the tube from the pan. If something happens, a pan is pretty cheap.
After two and a half years with it, I found no problems. Also, even with six full quarts of oil the drain is still high enough.

Originally posted by warmonger:

Originally posted by Stazi:
That's the best spot, better than the pan. Why?
1) you are always higher than the oil level, so it will drain without allowing a backfill of the oil line.
2) the pan can be dropped without having to mess with lines.
3) The block is thicker than the pan, so it is tapped easier with less chance of cracking, AND there are more threads (less chance of leakage).

This is for you Todd

The block skirt is part of the strength of the engine rotating assembly, the pan has very little. Holes are stress risers and although it is likely that it is low there, I just wondered what would happen with regard to cracks and such.
I tapped the pan because the top edge of the pan always remains above oil level except under momentary circumstances and even then there is plenty of room in the tube to accept continued oil drainage. The car levels out and no issues.
There hasn't been a problem with drainage into the top of the pan. The only problems I've seen is not restricting high pressure oil going into the turbo.
Also, if there is a leak or if servicing is required, it is easier to unbolt the tube from the pan. If something happens, a pan is pretty cheap.
After two and a half years with it, I found no problems. Also, even with six full quarts of oil the drain is still high enough.

I dig it...

those are my reasons for the pan as well.

and fast coug...I forgot you were building your own headers...I am using the MSDS ones that are modified and I think it would be tough to get it there on mine.

i used the top of the pan as well, pretty much in the same spot as tom, but i had my drain pipe welded onto my pan.

is there a universal fitting i can install into my pan with a plug blocking it while the motor is out. im gonna put a thousand miles on my motor N/A before fabbing the turbo kit, and id like to attempt it without removing the engine. doing it now would be easier than trying to add it later

Originally posted by Russell-3L:
is there a universal fitting i can install into my pan with a plug blocking it while the motor is out. im gonna put a thousand miles on my motor N/A before fabbing the turbo kit, and id like to attempt it without removing the engine. doing it now would be easier than trying to add it later

ick...would take more time putting a turbo kit on with the motor in than to just pull the motor again and bolt it on.

i plan on using an untouched MSDS rear header, modifying the front, and making a custom y-pipe and up-pipe not to mention all the intake and down pipe intercooler etc

It's a 1/4" walled oil return channel ... give me areak on the structural integrity lecture

Originally posted by fastcougar:
It's a 1/4" walled oil return channel ... give me areak on the structural integrity lecture

areak = a break

Originally posted by fastcougar:
It's a 1/4" walled oil return channel ... give me areak on the structural integrity lecture

Agreed. The black is webbed. No stress risers to worry about.

Originally posted by fastcougar:

Originally posted by fastcougar:
It's a 1/4" walled oil return channel ... give me areak on the structural integrity lecture

areak = a break

What kind of break...engine block break??

I wasn't saying that with any force behind it, I just said "I wonder..."
Then I gave the reasons I was "wondering".
I aint gonna give ya any slack!