So I'm curious if anyone else has had this problem? Last weekend I finally got my 3L Hybrid dropped into my 95 SE. Got everything hooked up and at this point, I'm so excited, words can't explain. I hit the key and she cranks, BUT.....no start!! She'll crank for a couple seconds and then locks up as if someone jammed something in the chains or something. It's a solid stop. In talking with one of the guys at work, he suggested that it's getting too much gas. It think it's possible since I went from stock 17's to 24's. It cranks and sputters like she wants to start but she doesn't quite catch. Also, maybe caused by the higher compression, but my starter sounds like it's got a lot less a$$ when she's cranking. I had 178k miles on the 2.5 when I pulled it out. Maybe the starter's weak??

I'm curious if anyone else has had this problem with their 3L Hybrid not wanting to start or if anyone has any suggestions I might be able to go on.

Kinda sounds like its not timmed correctly. Check your timming chain sensors while your at it. When I did my swap I was extremly suprised how fast it started. Like it was never out of the car. So If i was you I would check to make sure gas is getting in there, and also to make sure you have spark.

Please tell me you didn't reuase the timing chains and heads from your old engine on this swap? With that kind of mileage the heads and timing assemblies were due for repair/replacement. If it's a solid stop, you'd never get enough fuel to do that. I went from 19's to 42's my first time around and it started and ran until it fouled the plugs out. I'd say check timing.

Rick

He used our P&P heads with 3L valves but your 100% right it sounds like a timing issue.

What year 3L and what parts from your 2.5 did you use?

The engine cranking and not starting is very typical of the pulsewheel being put on incorrectly. The two keyways on the pulsewheel are almost 180° apart and using the wrong one will result in a no start.

See some old posts about this here.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=3L&Number=261901&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1

I used brand new chains and like Jesse said, a set of heads that he had and were reworked. As far as timing, all my marks were lined up dead nuts. The crank pulse wheel I bought a new one and used the 2.5 mark on the keyway (I've got a picture of it but havn't put it on a server yet so can't post it here). Made sure of that putting it all together. I've got good spark and I know it's getting gas cause I can smell it.

As far as it locking up during cranking. I don't think it's hitting valves or anything because as soon as I let off the key, she'll crank again like it never stopped. I will admit, when I was putting it together, I didn't realize the ACTUAL timing mark on the crank chain gears and was first timing off the keyway. But the valves were hitting when I turned it over by hand. As soon as I realized that the actual timing mark was like 160 degrees from the keyway, I corrected and everything rotated fine before I put the front cover on. I'm confused.

I'm going up today to try and maybe pinch off the fuel feed and cut some of the flow to the injectors off. If that doesn't work, I'm changing back to the old fuel rails and the 17's and see if I can get her to start that way.

The keyway should be right at the dead spot (open tooth) on the pulse wheel, right? I just took a look a the picture and that's what I've got.......please tell me that's right cause I REALLY don't feel like pulling this thing apart again.

1.) You are probably ok with your timing if you can crank for a few seconds...at least insofar as the valves not hitting the pistons because if they were you would have locked up on the 1st revolution and it wouldn't 'crank' over.

2.) It is possible that you are getting so much fuel that it fills the cylinders and locks up the motor, but unlikely. You need to pull your spark plugs and look for fuel. You also will have to dump the oil since all that raw gas is leaking down past the rings. It will strip oil of the cylinders and reduce compression. It will build up harmful vapors and probably cause a small explosion if you do get it to run.
Pull the plugs, check/change the oil.

3.) Unplug the fuse for the fuel pump, crank it and check for spark. If you have spark and you have no fuel dumping in and flooding it then you should be able to start. Check fuel pressure too. You could go back to the 17# injectors just to see if it will run as you already suggested.

4.) Why would the engine lock up after cranking, but then when you let off the key and try again it cranks? Could be a problem with the starter? Could be something mechanically wrong inside the engine? Be carefull and check out the proper areas.

Fuel, Air, Spark If you have these and you engine is timed ok then it should start.

Ok, well, I just got to my dad's house and sprinkled her with holy water before giving her another shot . Still no go. BUT, she did crank a bit longer before locking up during cranking. I pinched off the supply fuel line and she cranked a lot longer but no fire. She did sound a lot more like she wanted to start this time though.

I pulled #5 plug and checked and she's soaked in gas and black as hell. So I'm guessing that's what it is is just too much gas. I'm on my way into town now to get new plugs and am letting the battery charge while I'm gone. When I get back I think I'm gonna put the old 17's back in her and see what happens with those and new plugs. Even if I just have to take it REAL easy on her for break-in with the 17's then put the 24's back in before dyno tuning.

I'll let ya all know what happens!!

Originally posted by SETour95:

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The keyway should be right at the dead spot (open tooth) on the pulse wheel, right? I just took a look a the picture and that's what I've got.......please tell me that's right cause I REALLY don't feel like pulling this thing apart again.

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You need to use the keyway furthest away from the missing tooth. See the picture for help. I would recommend that someone put this picture in their how-to or maybe Lance could put it on the site.