Ok I need some opinions on this. I went to the track last night and as I launched I heard a small noise and then the car wouldnt go anywhere. I can get it into gear but when i step on the accelerator it simply wont move. I have a quaife lsd, centerforce clutch and autozone brand axles. What do you guys think has bit the dust. The clutch may have around 25kmiles on it. Axles around 5k miles. No liquid leaking, Axles still feel strong and in place. Thanks in advance. Not sure how long before I can get it into a shop. I would do it myself but working 7 days a week doesnt help. launched at 2k it jumped to redline and then i heard the pop. Motor still idles and runes fine. All gears go in smooth.
Do you have to push in the clutch for it to go into gear or does it grind if the clutch is out and you try to put it in gear? <--- if you don't have to push in pedal then clutch / pressure plate is bad and the clutch isnt engaging with flywheel.
Can you start the car in gear with the clutch pedal up and does it jerk while trying to start? <--- if it doesn't jerk then clutch disk / pressure plate it bad and the clutch is not disengaging from flywheel, but doesnt seem to be your problem
If it jerks and starts then try and push in clutch and shift. <--- if you can't shift then clutch / pressure plate is bad. Again flywheel isn't disengaging from clutch disk.
Is there any clutch pedal? <--- if you can't feel any resistance then clutch / pressure plate problems
Can you put the car in gear and then try to push it with engine off? <---- if it moves then clutch isn't engaging
Try those in every gear to make sure the gears in tranny aren't stripped out.
It sounds to me like you did something with the clutch or pressure plate and the disc isn't engaging the flywheel for some reason. If no liquid is pouring out then you shouldn't have a problem with internal transmission work.
If you pull the tranny and the clutch / pressure plate are OK then you may have busted the tranny internals and might want to crack it open and check it out.
Almost forgot ... if it's the car in your sig, you might want to lower the asking price right about now
I'd lay my money on the clutch if the axles feel strong and in place.
I'd think you'd feel lots of grinding and stuff with the diff bad if you broke it.
#1 guess - clutch sheared at the hub
#2 guess - sheared axle shaft
I wouldn't be too happy FastCougar, if it were the LSD. Yeah, Quaife will replace it, but damn that is a [censored] install.
My bet is (an no offense, but I am gonna rant) that your piece of crap CenterForce clutch took a [censored] on you. Mine had 3k miles on it and I glazed it good and it never was the same. I upgraded to a SpecIII and had no drivability issues (I was ~295FWHP / ~270TQ). You do have to put up with some clutch chatter, but that wasn't too bad.
The CenterForce clutch for the Contour/Cougar is not much more than stock. It is not worth the price. Go stock or SPEC or whatever, just not CF.
I was more so referring to the fact that Quiafe prices just went up and it has a lifetime warranty ... install is another bag of worms and will cost you nicely if you don't/can't install yourself. Now imagine adding $700+ on-top of your install costs
Thanks for the replies guys. I will look into all the issues tommorow morning and post some results.
No its not the car in my sig either. That is a whole seperate vehicle.
I know that quaife has a lifetime warranty but do they still endorse the warranty if you bought it from a person instead of a store. For instance classifieds or something in that sort. Just incase it may be the diff.
When the flat bed pulled the car off of the track i did hear some noises but I thought it was liquid gushing out of a gashed transmission. When i got out of the car there were no cracks or leaks. I will look in the little viewing area where the atf tube comes out of the tranny and see if I see and clutch pieces lying around.
Will post something tommorow afternoon with results.
Thanks Rev. but if its the diff I will most likely buy a new quiafe or a torsen.
I started the car last night and put it into gear and let go of the clutch. I heard soem grinding of some sort. maybe a spining clutch plate that has been ripped to pieces. It did this in all gears. I was able to put the car into gear without using the clutch aswell. Other than that I dont have anymore news. RPMs do work.
If it is the clutch I will be going with a spec clutch. I currently have a fidanza flywheel. I dont even mind the clutch chatter. The centerforce clutch did it all the time. Should I go stage 2 or 3.? Im currently N/A but I do want to go FI when the new ADC kit comes out.
If your looking to push lots of power and torque with the turbo, definately go with a Stage 3 or 3+. If your just looking for a moderate increase, go with the Stage 2.
I have a stage 3+ myself, and love it, it is no stiffer than the old Centerforce that was in my car.
Good luck with everything, Sam.
Robert
Based on what you just said, I think Tom was dead right ... sheared clutch disk.
ok thaks so much. So where are the links for the best deals on stage 3 spec clutches. Does svtcuervo still sell them?
Thanks Rob my car will be fine I know it I love it too much.
I just bought a clutch from him. Shipping was fast and the prices were the cheapest I could find.
I think(hope) he means the rubber boot covering the port where the clutch hydraulic fluid lines come out.
you could take the starter off and take a peek.
Ok guys the car has been fixed. Problem was the axle. Broke clean off into 2 pieces. I will post pics as soon as I get them. Thanks to Terry Haines for emailing me on the subject and pinpointing the problem. And thanks for everyone who posted.
