If you haven't, add a few bucks for stainless lines. It's a nice extra bit of oomph in the system.

If you haven't, add a few bucks for stainless lines. It's a nice extra bit of oomph in the system.

Thanks. I'll look into it just as soon as I decide on which pads to use. Now I'm leaning towards the KVR pads. I hear that they're not too great in wet weather, but with slotted/drilled rotors, I figure they'll do okay. Anybody prefer the KVR's over Greenstuff?

*listening for crickets*

I have drilled and slotted rotors from EBC. Front and rear. Ordered from BAT. Both sets are from EBC.

See, you're kinda losing me over the drilled rotors bit. I don't think they look cool enough to make up for the downsides. I put the BAT Big Brake C package on my '95 with the stainless lines and a really good system bleed with ATE Super Blue fluid, and even though there's no drilled cosmetics in the rotors, I think the bigger discs look great behind the E1 wheels I have and more importantly, the stopping power has ALWAYS been strong and consistent (IIRC, it took probably a year and a half before I felt like maybe I was having to push through more brake pedal travel for the same stopping oomph). And my rotors can be turned...drilled ones can't.

For my money, brake function always trumps form, and if there's something else you can spend dollars on than the drilled rotors, I'd stay with solids and pick up that something else.

Big brakes are good for the extra sweep area, but like I said, I'm not interested in that; don't have enough HP to the wheels, as it is. The SVT already stops better than most in its class, and I'd be really surprised if the changes I make result in a poorer performing brake system. I understand the point you're trying to make though. Thanks.

I would highly recomment Powerslot rotors. I have them on all four corners and love them. I would also recommend Satisfied Pro Performance pads. Tire Rack gave me negative feedback in regards to the EBC pads that they have tested, which is the only reason I didn't buy them.

drilled rotors can be turned it is just difficult to do as well as harder to find someone to do it. i know because i just had mine done. generally, you are right about there being little advantage when compared to a properly made "normal" rotor save for the quicker water evacuation which is what convinced me to try them. also, a buddy of mine has ebc pads on his bike and says that they are only ok. he is not terribly pleased nor really displeased.

drilled rotors can be turned it is just difficult to do as well as harder to find someone to do it. i know because i just had mine done. generally, you are right about there being little advantage when compared to a properly made "normal" rotor save for the quicker water evacuation which is what convinced me to try them. also, a buddy of mine has ebc pads on his bike and says that they are only ok. he is not terribly pleased nor really displeased.


On today's cars, by the time you go through one set of pads you're lucky if you're not below discard thickness, after refinishing a rotor, so turning or not turning them was never really an issue for me. And thanks for the EBC feedback.
Classvt, thanks for the Powerslot and SPP pad advice.

SonofaNun, I advise you do a little searching on this subject in the archives. The whole drilled, slotted issue has been tackled so many times it's crazy. And these are guys who specialize in brakes, engineers, and the likes. It's really impressive the group of guys we have on this site.

If you want cheap, I'm trying to unload the leftovers from my GP. $225 + shipping will get you 4 slotted rotors and Axxis Metal Master pads all the way around. Let me know if you are interested.

Thanks. Before I actually buy anything, I'll be sure to take a look at the archives. Right now I'm thinking that I want a G-Stop 4 Line Stainless Steel kit, with black cadmium plated drilled and grooved KVR rotors, with KVR pads, or maybe Greenstuff pads front and rear. Guess I'll find out how right or how wrong I am.