Energy Suspension Bushings

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

For the ES bushings, which goes where? The set has 2 large and 2 smaller, both are same width. I tried matching them, but I want to make sure before I start putting parts together.

And what are you talking about? Endlink bushings or sway bar bushings?

My bad. Neither. The sway bar and end link set is pretty obvious.

The Tie and Knuckle Set (back row)

small ones go in the trailing arm and the large ones go in the hub...

Thanks. That is what I through from looking at the tie rod and knuckle, but I wanted to confirm that through another member before I made a mistake.

While we're talking about the ES bushings:

I didn't put alot of though into actually installing the bushing into the knuckle. I knew the arm was easy because it just unbolts. I have never bleed brakes before and I am hesitating on taking the knunkles off to burn out the bushing. Or I am unsure how safe it would be to burn out the bushing while its on the car...

How good/bad would it be if I only put in the trailing arm bushing?

Looking for thoughts and opinions. Also the bushing on the knuckle is worn, but not nearly like the one in the trailing arm. I could turn the one originally in the arm, but the one on the knuckle resists movement alot better. But I am here doing the suspension and I'm just looking for another point of view. TIA

Originally posted by ZeroHour:
Thanks. That is what I through from looking at the tie rod and knuckle, but I wanted to confirm that through another member before I made a mistake.

While we're talking about the ES bushings:

I didn't put alot of though into actually installing the bushing into the knuckle. I knew the arm was easy because it just unbolts. I have never bleed brakes before and I am hesitating on taking the knunkles off to burn out the bushing. Or I am unsure how safe it would be to burn out the bushing while its on the car...

How good/bad would it be if I only put in the trailing arm bushing?

Looking for thoughts and opinions. Also the bushing on the knuckle is worn, but not nearly like the one in the trailing arm. I could turn the one originally in the arm, but the one on the knuckle resists movement alot better. But I am here doing the suspension and I'm just looking for another point of view. TIA

In the how-to that we showed you from your earlier posts on this topic, the author (Pole120) used a hole-saw to remove the rubber bushing from the knuckle. Then he used an air-chisel to cut out the metal sleeve. He removed the knuckle assembly from the car, but I was thinking of trying it in situ.

Other people have done just the trailing arm, at least temporarily, but the fact is that both are probably worn.

So far i have only got around to the trailing arm bushings. No problems. I am going to do the install with the knuckle still on the car. Use a hole-saw to cut the rubber out and get the sleeve out with a air chisel then push in the new bushing.

Well all I have right now is a saws all, a dremel, a very angry drill that is probably 1/4hp, a propane touch, a cooping saw, lots of sand paper, some razor blades, and 5/8 of a pack of gatorade.

Oh and one end link

My box arrived with only one end link, someone forgot to count to two in texas.

But they are second daying the other one and it will be here monday.

I have another question, why is it required to cut out the metal sleeve? It seems to be that the bushign would fit with the sleeve there. Not to mention if the original bushing had a sleeve, why not keep it for the replacement?

I am pretty sure it will not fit with the sleeve in...You could try, but i think it would be a PITA to get it with the sleeve still in the knuckle.
I did my trailing arm bushing with a torch,flat head screwdriver,and a dremel. I heated the center sleeve until it melted out then took a screw driver and took the rest of the rubber out(comes out pretty easy when hot). Then took a sanding wheel on the dremel and got the rest of the rubber out.

Originally posted by ZeroHour:
Well all I have right now is a saws all, a dremel, a very angry drill that is probably 1/4hp, a propane touch, a cooping saw, lots of sand paper, some razor blades, and 5/8 of a pack of gatorade.

Welp, time for a trip to Lowe's and the Liquor store.

Originally posted by ZeroHour:
I have another question, why is it required to cut out the metal sleeve? It seems to be that the bushign would fit with the sleeve there. Not to mention if the original bushing had a sleeve, why not keep it for the replacement?

The ES instructions say to retain any metal sleeves you find and re-use them, but Pole said there was no way it was going to fit, and it works fine without it.

Although Pole120 has a lot of knowledge,he is not completely accurate on this subject.You can install the bushing with the sleeve,and while on the car.Get a bushing removal tool.It is a set of "cups" used with a c-clamp, that support the bushing as it is pressed into the hub.I have done this on my car.The best way to get them into the hub is to bevel the edge of the bushing that is going through the hub.Then apply A LOT of lubricant.If you want more info shoot me a PM.

Originally posted by tsSVT:
Although Pole120 has a lot of knowledge,he is not completely accurate on this subject.You can install the bushing with the sleeve, and while on the car.

Did i ever claim to be an expert and did i ever state it couldn't be done on the car?

Install the bushing with the sleeve???

You're talking about using a bushing removal tool...wich should push the stock bushing and the sleve it's molded too out of the knuckle. AFAIK you cannot install the ES bushing with the stock metal sleve sill in the knuckle, it just won't fit correctly, the center standof for the ES bushing will fit so tightly you can't even rotate it. The bushing comes bevled just enough to be pressed in as-is WITOHUT the stock sleve in the knuckle...

I've done this install 3 times...all went flawlessly and needed no modification to any bushings.

Just an update on getting all this suspension work done. I got both struts/springs assemblies in along with the sway bar bushings. Needless to say there is a large difference in the suspension. I can't move it with it up in the air like I use to. Also the sway bar makes the car move when I pull on it! lol I use to be able to move the sway bar fairly easily.

oh but the best part is! I forgot to put on the passenger side top (chamber?) plate on the strut. So now that side has to come completely back off the car.

But I am very happy with the improvements and the car isn't even on the road yet!

Originally posted by ZeroHour:

oh but the best part is! I forgot to put on the passenger side top (chamber?) plate on the strut. So now that side has to come completely back off the car.

How is that even possible?

Werd.

Originally posted by Pole120:

Originally posted by tsSVT:
Although Pole120 has a lot of knowledge,he is not completely accurate on this subject.You can install the bushing with the sleeve, and while on the car.

Did i ever claim to be an expert and did i ever state it couldn't be done on the car?

Install the bushing with the sleeve???

You're talking about using a bushing removal tool...wich should push the stock bushing and the sleve it's molded too out of the knuckle. AFAIK you cannot install the ES bushing with the stock metal sleve sill in the knuckle, it just won't fit correctly, the center standof for the ES bushing will fit so tightly you can't even rotate it. The bushing comes bevled just enough to be pressed in as-is WITOHUT the stock sleve in the knuckle...

I've done this install 3 times...all went flawlessly and needed no modification to any bushings.

Wow,wait a minute,I wasn't bashing you.I'm sorry if it came off that way.I have done this on my car.The center portion of my bushings just tore out of the knuckle and left the sleeve when I ran the tool threw.I just wanted to point out that it can be done.The bushing fits perfectly in the sleeve.I don't know if the bushing needs to be beveled to get it in this way,but I tore one of the ES bushings the first time I tried to do this.I didn't want to take any chances.Maybe i'm reading this wrong but what part are you talking about rotating?I assume you talking about the sleeve in the bushing?I don't know If mine can rotate or not.All I know is that there doesn't seem to be any binding or noise from the bushings.

Again,I'm sorry if I offended you,I just want to point out that it is possible to do this another way.

Originally posted by RogerB:

Originally posted by ZeroHour:

oh but the best part is! I forgot to put on the passenger side top (chamber?) plate on the strut. So now that side has to come completely back off the car.

How is that even possible?

Not the strut mount. the two inch disk that goes on top of the strut mount. And its really easy when you set the part off to the side and are working on 5 and half hours of sleep after working an 9 hour day with a 3 hour meeting and a lunch immediately when you get back.

needless to say I'm glad that was my last day of my summer job! Last night I got plently of sleep and correct all the problems. I took the car out for a little drive tonight with the completed rear. I noticed slight improvement but did not try to drive above the posted speed limits because one it was the test run, two dusk sunlight = zero visibility, three I passed the same cop twice.

I was thinking of turning around just to wave as I drove past him again, but that might be rude.

Tomorrow will be the start of the fronts.