Koni and Ground Controls

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

hey i just got the koni and ground controls and i already have the camber kit on my car with h&r lowing springs on stock shocks now do i still need the camber kit for the ground controls and konis and if so how to i adjust the konis with the camber kit on the top plat covers that

Take a breath.

do not use the camber plates with the konis - I have heard that it puts too much stress on the shaft of the strut and they might break.... I have the konis and GC, just took it out today - oh my oh my..... you will be HAPPY with that set up.

Originally posted by blu_fuz:
do not use the camber plates with the konis - I have heard that it puts too much stress on the shaft of the strut and they might break.... I have the konis and GC, just took it out today - oh my oh my..... you will be HAPPY with that set up.

How do you figure? The mounting with the camber kits are no different than stock, with the exception of the ecentric plates which change the caster/camber. I've had mine on for over 2 years with no problems

To be honest I still don't even understand all the fuss about the top plates and why people think it is necessay to get "upgraded ones". These things are not a performance thing and are only really there to hold the struts to teh tower if the car is airborne and the struts are fully extended.

Originally posted by blu_fuz:
do not use the camber plates with the konis - I have heard that it puts too much stress on the shaft of the strut and they might break.... I have the konis and GC, just took it out today - oh my oh my..... you will be HAPPY with that set up.

Did you have to cut your Koni shocks to work with the Ground Controls and is the highest setting on the Ground Controls on the back tires still tuking the tire.Seems kinda low to me to be on the hightest setting.

My konis were cut by koni - you can order them that way. You do not have to cut the konis but you would at least have to grind out parts of the perch - I would reccomend cutting them off though... Ummmmm about the tucking of the wheels, it depends on rim size and so on.... start with the coller half way and go from there.... JOE

Originally posted by timeless420:

Originally posted by blu_fuz:
do not use the camber plates with the konis - I have heard that it puts too much stress on the shaft of the strut and they might break.... I have the konis and GC, just took it out today - oh my oh my..... you will be HAPPY with that set up.

How do you figure? The mounting with the camber kits are no different than stock, with the exception of the ecentric plates which change the caster/camber. I've had mine on for over 2 years with no problems

To be honest I still don't even understand all the fuss about the top plates and why people think it is necessay to get "upgraded ones". These things are not a performance thing and are only really there to hold the struts to teh tower if the car is airborne and the struts are fully extended.

I guess your top hats have never bent after torquing them to spec then? Mine spun around and where totally useless. Many have experienced this.

Okay...I accept the fact that they spin, but that is the nature of the offset mounts and not fitting into the stock recesses.

What I am questioning is how is this a problem? They still do the same job right? They are no less safe than the stock setup and if they become one, well let's say that if you have your car airbone in such a manner you will have other problems.

Personally I still see no true justification for these other caps and I will stand by that until someone provides a reason other than them spining. And btw....taking the car to the track 4 or more times a season since I've had these and probably driving the car harder than 90% of the people on here with no adverse affects counts for more than anything in my books.

Mine didn't warp from driving they warped from being torqued to spec! Then after driving they got even worse.

I don't know how they can't get bent when you tighten them. They are about as strong as a wet noodle. Tony's plates are a must IMO.

Originally posted by todras:
I don't know how they can't get bent when you tighten them. They are about as strong as a wet noodle. Tony's plates are a must IMO.

I see what you are talking about but they are mainly an asthetic issue rather than a functionality issue. Until somone gives me another vaild concern that these stock caps affect the actual functionality of the camber kit/strut mounts I will still not accept this as a true upgrade except unless you consider it weight reduction since your wallet will be lighter after

I agree. I've never used the cheapo plates - I got a pre-bent set and an upgraded set when I bought the kit used. But, I can tell you that I would not want to torque ANY plates to spec. Factory spec torque is for the centered plates. They are designed to let the strut shaft move in the tower, sliding the plate with it. When you offset things, you change the geometry of the motion, and the bending forces on the shaft skyrocket. I am glad the plates bend - they're giving way instead of the strut! After the hat is settled into the tower, it will take a lot of force to dislodge and rotate it, so having the cap just finger-pressure snug against the top of the tower seems like good prevention of it actually coming out far enough to do damage, but nothing else.

I find that the nut holding the top plate on sits against the nut on the strut hat, so I can't snug the plate down anyway, FWIW.