Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives
My problem here is, and I want your guys opinion on it is, I looked to see if I could remove the Y-pipe safely from the car. There are two obstacles in the way, first the car is above another car, secondly the yard forbids using jacks to lift cars up. What do I do to get the exhaust from that car? And will the exhaust most likely be damaged because it's stacked pretty much flush with another car below it, and knowing the yards they probably just dropped it hard on top? What do you think? Cut a hole in the car belows roof and go from there? Or scrap the idea because it's probably got leaks or cracks in it? I mean I wish I had taken a picture, but for those 'yard dogs' out there, I want to ask what would you guys do?
If it looks damaged, it is damaged, is the way I see it. I installed my exhaust without jacking up the car- so if you're a skinny guy like I am then that should be your plan.
I wouldn't say I'm skinny necessarily but I'm not Napolean Dynamite either. But ya, sure I'll keep a look out for one. Does anyone have a picture of where on the exhaust I shoud start removing and what tools I would need?
You unbolt it from the rear of the cat and then take it loose from the hangers. No tools are needed to remove it from the hangers unless you need to cut the rubber "donut". I don't remember the bolt size for the cat flange.
really it's that easy? I mean so installation of it would be that easy as well? Well I mean I'd have to fabricate my own hook (pfft>.) but reallly is that all it is? Man if I had know n it was anything like that easy I would've done it yesterday when I was out to change the ATF.
If the exhaust is in good shape from the rear split to the tips, then just cut that part off & have it welded to your current exhaust. The resonator is the same on the regular vs SVT exhaust systems, IIRC...
oh speaking of resonator, i'm going to order the magnaflow one (4in round) so I mean there's that, and if I do pull this exhaust than I'm going to have to optimize the Y-pipe, put in the RU-3530, and build a heatshield for it, so this would actually be the catalyst to start all those upgrades . Anyways, i'll just unbolt it to be safe, I think they offer a refund policy at the yard so I'll go take a look see.
Sometimes big channel-lock pliers help to squeeze the hangers out of the rubber things if you cant get your body into a good postion.
is there anything left on the SVT?

Grab the UIM and LIM, throttle body, sideskirts, bumpers, seats, trim pieces etc.

ill grab the skirts and sneak small parts in my bag D: i don't want them making 100% profit on stuff they shouldn't be charging for.
whenever i hit up the junkyard i leave with a pocketfull of fuses...
sounds a little risky to go for the y-pipe , i would concentrate on the duals ! get a cherrybomb at CanadianTire for the centre-pipe , it's 20%off now & has a niiice deep sound & do-not believe the talk about it blowing out ... mine is still the same sound !

is this the SAME car that was gutted ?

does that mean it has NO engine & NO dipstick cuz i really would like that part !
Originally posted by m4gician:
ill grab the skirts and sneak small parts in my bag D: i don't want them making 100% profit on stuff they shouldn't be charging for.




seriously, if you can. Grab the SVT body kit as a whole it would be REALLY worth it.

And the UIM and LIM will sell for like 350 bucks at least.
do you really need a dipstick? LOL any duratec engine can get you that D: especially from the yard.
Make sure you grab the main cat, don't worry about the y-pipe, SVT y-pipe and non-svt are identical, unless you see that its been optimized...

The SVT main cat is 2.25" and non-SVT is 2"... If you're grabbing it, might as well get that.
Oh and grab it quickly b/c If i go insane and just not give a damn i'll go and get the parts for myself b/c i know where this car is located, so hurry hurry hurry lol.
Originally posted by m4gician:
really it's that easy? I mean so installation of it would be that easy as well? Well I mean I'd have to fabricate my own hook (pfft>.) but reallly is that all it is? Man if I had know n it was anything like that easy I would've done it yesterday when I was out to change the ATF.




NO!!!!! The bolts will be rusty beyond belief and fused on there from constant heating and cooling. You will most likley strip the nut. I had to get these things that have some funky pattern to the inside of the socket that pulls it onto the nut the tighter you turn it and that combined with a at least 2ft long torque wrench (I was at the local tech school, they got everything there!) and my leg pushing the thing got it off, amazingly I didn't break off the nut!! Others might have have better luck with this and I will admit this is a little biased as I am still bitter from my fights with these bolts.
Originally posted by Big Jim:
I don't remember the bolt size for the cat flange.




15mm. Just installed one tonight, broke the other one.
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