Racing - 02/22/04 06:27 PM
So who here autocrosses, and what kind of cars do contique hold up against? I'm starting SCCA solo II very soon, and would like some contique experience behind me when I start.
Re: Racing - 02/22/04 09:20 PM
This forum is probably what you're looking for. You'll get a better response there.
Re: Racing - 02/23/04 06:07 PM
I autox on occassion, but it's been over a year... 
Last I checked, I wasn't very competitive, but that's just me. There's another guy who just won the season points race locally in his bone-stock SVT, so, yes, it can be a locally competitive car in the right hands.
What class are you considering? What mods do you have, if any?
Last I checked, I wasn't very competitive, but that's just me. There's another guy who just won the season points race locally in his bone-stock SVT, so, yes, it can be a locally competitive car in the right hands.
What class are you considering? What mods do you have, if any?
Re: Racing - 02/23/04 07:32 PM
Just what's in my profile, so the bone-stock class.
Re: Racing - 02/23/04 11:35 PM
Well, that TH fix will knock you straight to Street Mod...
Just kidding.
I don't know what it's like where you are, but GS is kind of boring here (not many entrants). I think that's why that guy I mentioned runs in STS, even though his car is stock. Don't worry about that, though. Try 'em both.
Personally, I think the car can be more competitive in STS, if it has the allowable mods. I mean, think about it, in GS, your LX is classed the same as the SVT, and there's not much you can do to improve your odds.
But the bottom line is just go out and have fun with what you have before you spend a bunch of money on the car.
Just kidding.
I don't know what it's like where you are, but GS is kind of boring here (not many entrants). I think that's why that guy I mentioned runs in STS, even though his car is stock. Don't worry about that, though. Try 'em both.
Personally, I think the car can be more competitive in STS, if it has the allowable mods. I mean, think about it, in GS, your LX is classed the same as the SVT, and there's not much you can do to improve your odds.
But the bottom line is just go out and have fun with what you have before you spend a bunch of money on the car.
Re: Racing - 02/24/04 04:06 AM
Yeah, this is all about having fun, I have very little interest in doing well compared to an SVT... I just want to improve my driving skills and push the limits of this great car legally, and not at the risk of other's safety. Thanks for your input, as soon as I have a reserve in the bank account for replacement parts I'll be hitting the track (or mall parking lot...). About that... what gets messed up doing this? I know it will be hard on the engine, but other than that, just tires and brakes, right?
Re: Racing - 02/24/04 04:21 PM
I don't know where they put SE models, I'm sure it's in a different class than the SVT's participate in....
Re: Racing - 02/24/04 06:11 PM
Originally posted by 95Sleeper:
About that... what gets messed up doing this? I know it will be hard on the engine, but other than that, just tires and brakes, right?
Mostly tires. Definitely tires.
Brakes, somewhat. You might want to do a fluid flush more often, and use some high quality stuff (like Super Blue). You will smell smells from the brakes that you never thought possible. But, the runs are pretty short, so it's not like a track day, even.
Other things might wear more quickly, as well, but not necessarily just because of a few autocrosses. Things like wheel bearings wear out faster for driving enthusiasts. I have no idea why.
Re: Racing - 02/24/04 06:16 PM
Originally posted by PXRacing:
I don't know where they put SE models, I'm sure it's in a different class than the SVT's participate in....
SE V6 Contours and SVT Contours are together in G-Stock. Zetecs drop to H Stock. My early SE has less power and more understeer than an SVT, but at least it's lighter.
But, there is a gray area, here. Other Duratec Contours, like a GL or LX, aren't specifically listed, so I guess you could argue that they belong in the "catchall" H Stock.
Solo II Car Classes: Stock Category
Re: Racing - 02/24/04 06:21 PM
Originally posted by PXRacing:
I don't know where they put SE models, I'm sure it's in a different class than the SVT's participate in....
SE's and SVT's are both GS cars when stock. I would highly recommend learning how to drive your car before doing any modifications at all, and then do a little at a time.
To stay stock, you need to keep the same wheels that came with the car (because you can't find 4x108 wheels in stock widths). The simple suspension upgrades take you to STS; an LSD would mean STX. After that, welcome to Street Prepared.
Most car clubs have Street Tire classes which mean that you're not competing with a Celica GT on Hoosiers straight up (the national winner in GS for the past couple of years).
Good luck, have fun, and *definitely* read The Secrets of Solo Racing by Henry Watts.
Re: Racing - 03/01/04 06:03 AM
Here is what you can and can not do in Stock classes.
TIRES
You must run stock size wheels but they do not have to be STOCK wheels. beleive it or not, the smaller diameter wheels seem to work best with short side wall tires. Hard to beat that lower CG. You can run with DOT approved racing tires. When buying tires, look for the lowest treadware ratings. Around 170 would be good for racing but ware out quick on the street. They can be any size that will fit on the rim correctly. Most people keep their set of racing tires and rims off the car and change them when they get to the track. If you must use street tires, inflate them to 38 to 40 psi. Deflate them to normal pressure before returning to the street. You must remove hub caps. Be sure you have secure wheels and no broken lug studs.
REMOVING THINGS
You can not remove anything that is bolted down. The spare tire is the exception. You may need to try your car with and without the spare to see how your balance works. You may want to try different levels of fuel in the tank. Half a tank of gas may not work as well as 5/8ths, etc... You can not remove your airfilter unit. You may remove the filter. You can not remove seat belts but, you may add a five point harness. You can not add any braces, strut tower or otherwise, unless it came on the car originally. Take out that booming stereo box speaker system before you leave the house. It's just dead weight anyway and if it's loose, they will make you remove it. Where do you keep that loaded box at the track? You don't. They don't have places to keep stuff like that so they get jacked! They will leave your tires alone though. Weird huh?
ADDING OTHER THINGS
You may add any kind of shocks you want as long as they mount in the stock location and require NO mods to install. Install the best brake pads you can afford. They will check to make sure you have good brake pedal pressure before your class runs so do not show up with poor pedal pressure. The tires, brakes, and shocks will be your best investments and will lower your time the most as far as parts go. There are other small things that the rule book will cover which you must buy before you can compete at most events. They usually sell them there at the race. Another thing is a helmet. If you don't have one, they usually have loaners.
The best way to win is seat time. You will find that the fastest car doesn't mean poop at these events. Sure it doesn't hurt to have more power but skill is where it's at and when you go to race, go to learn. Ask questions and go to as many events as you can. It will also make you a safer, smarter street driver.
Good luck and have fun!
TIRES
You must run stock size wheels but they do not have to be STOCK wheels. beleive it or not, the smaller diameter wheels seem to work best with short side wall tires. Hard to beat that lower CG. You can run with DOT approved racing tires. When buying tires, look for the lowest treadware ratings. Around 170 would be good for racing but ware out quick on the street. They can be any size that will fit on the rim correctly. Most people keep their set of racing tires and rims off the car and change them when they get to the track. If you must use street tires, inflate them to 38 to 40 psi. Deflate them to normal pressure before returning to the street. You must remove hub caps. Be sure you have secure wheels and no broken lug studs.
REMOVING THINGS
You can not remove anything that is bolted down. The spare tire is the exception. You may need to try your car with and without the spare to see how your balance works. You may want to try different levels of fuel in the tank. Half a tank of gas may not work as well as 5/8ths, etc... You can not remove your airfilter unit. You may remove the filter. You can not remove seat belts but, you may add a five point harness. You can not add any braces, strut tower or otherwise, unless it came on the car originally. Take out that booming stereo box speaker system before you leave the house. It's just dead weight anyway and if it's loose, they will make you remove it. Where do you keep that loaded box at the track? You don't. They don't have places to keep stuff like that so they get jacked! They will leave your tires alone though. Weird huh?
ADDING OTHER THINGS
You may add any kind of shocks you want as long as they mount in the stock location and require NO mods to install. Install the best brake pads you can afford. They will check to make sure you have good brake pedal pressure before your class runs so do not show up with poor pedal pressure. The tires, brakes, and shocks will be your best investments and will lower your time the most as far as parts go. There are other small things that the rule book will cover which you must buy before you can compete at most events. They usually sell them there at the race. Another thing is a helmet. If you don't have one, they usually have loaners.
The best way to win is seat time. You will find that the fastest car doesn't mean poop at these events. Sure it doesn't hurt to have more power but skill is where it's at and when you go to race, go to learn. Ask questions and go to as many events as you can. It will also make you a safer, smarter street driver.
Good luck and have fun!
Re: Racing - 03/01/04 06:46 PM
Good luck dude. I love AutoX, I did it for a year and a half. You'll have a ball.
Been trying to get people in my region to do this for a while. Then, I remembered, people in my region don't do much of anything.
Here's an old post of mine. Some decent pics.
Been trying to get people in my region to do this for a while. Then, I remembered, people in my region don't do much of anything.
Here's an old post of mine. Some decent pics.
Re: Racing - 03/02/04 12:40 AM
I just went to my first AutoX event yesterday! Oh man, it was a BLAST! I want to run SSB in a couple of years, so I want to AutoX as much as possible cause it's really teaching me a lot. I ran my SVT and my more seasoned friend ran my SVT. He took 1st in GS and I took 3rd. There was a V6 Camaro (with a borla...tsk tsk) and a Civic Si. The guy running the Si was new too, so it's not much saying I beat him, but my friend ran his car too, and was actually a tad faster than the SVT in it. Of course, I had some problems with the car there...surprise, surprise... Just go out there and have fun!
Re: Racing - 03/02/04 04:56 PM
Originally posted by BrittB:
Here is what you can and can not do in Stock classes.
...ADDING OTHER THINGS
You may add any kind of shocks you want as long as they mount in the stock location and require NO mods to install.
Good luck and have fun!
I didn't know that!! I thought you had to run stock suspension setup or something that was available from the factory as an option. So, you're saying I can buy a BAT european handling kit, bolt it in & go racing the Stock class in an otherwise factory car?
If this specifically applies to the SVTs which are one bracket higher than my SE. Does it also apply to the Stock G class of my SE?
Re: Racing - 03/02/04 07:10 PM
I think the Springs in the Euro Handling Kit would put you in another class.
Re: Racing - 03/03/04 03:00 PM
Just the shocks. I think cat back exhaust may be okay too. I will have to dig out the book to be sure.
Re: Racing - 03/03/04 03:28 PM
Cat back is OK, I checked. I was just surprised about the suspension mods. I thought it was factory only stuff for Stock.
Re: Racing - 03/03/04 08:53 PM
I think I was in Street Modified last time I raced my 3L SVT. Sound right anyone?
Re: Racing - 03/04/04 08:15 AM
I'm looking at the 2002 rule book (can't find my 2003).
You can use any shock useing stock mounting points and mounting system. No more than two external damping adjustments. Suspension geometry and range of travel may NOT be altered from stock.
Front sway bar can be removed or replaced. You can NOT do anything to the REAR sway bar. You can use any bushings on the FRONT sway bar that you want.
Everything else in the suspension must remain stock.
Cat back exhaust can be changed but be careful of local noise restrictions.
Wheels must be stock diameter and width and =/- .25" offset from stock.
You can use any brake pads, oil and grease that you want.
That is about all you can do to the car and run stock class.
Good luck and HAVE FUN!!!!!
You can use any shock useing stock mounting points and mounting system. No more than two external damping adjustments. Suspension geometry and range of travel may NOT be altered from stock.
Front sway bar can be removed or replaced. You can NOT do anything to the REAR sway bar. You can use any bushings on the FRONT sway bar that you want.
Everything else in the suspension must remain stock.
Cat back exhaust can be changed but be careful of local noise restrictions.
Wheels must be stock diameter and width and =/- .25" offset from stock.
You can use any brake pads, oil and grease that you want.
That is about all you can do to the car and run stock class.
Good luck and HAVE FUN!!!!!
Re: Racing - 03/04/04 02:46 PM
Originally posted by SVT2000Contour:
I'm looking at the 2002 rule book (can't find my 2003).
You can use any shock useing stock mounting points and mounting system. No more than two external damping adjustments. Suspension geometry and range of travel may NOT be altered from stock.
Front sway bar can be removed or replaced. You can NOT do anything to the REAR sway bar. You can use any bushings on the FRONT sway bar that you want.
Everything else in the suspension must remain stock.
Cat back exhaust can be changed but be careful of local noise restrictions.
Wheels must be stock diameter and width and =/- .25" offset from stock.
You can use any brake pads, oil and grease that you want.
That is about all you can do to the car and run stock class.
Good luck and HAVE FUN!!!!!
Spark plugs (don't bother), and Magnecor plug wires (good for a small boost), and a K&N drop-in filter in the standard intake housing.
Oh, and any DOT approved tire of any size that will fit on your rims and not rub on your fender. So, low-profile, sticky DOT-approved "race" tires like Hoosiers...
Re: Racing - 03/04/04 05:19 PM
Originally posted by RogerB:
Originally posted by SVT2000Contour:
I'm looking at the 2002 rule book (can't find my 2003).
You can use any shock useing stock mounting points and mounting system. No more than two external damping adjustments. Suspension geometry and range of travel may NOT be altered from stock.
Front sway bar can be removed or replaced. You can NOT do anything to the REAR sway bar. You can use any bushings on the FRONT sway bar that you want.
Everything else in the suspension must remain stock.
Cat back exhaust can be changed but be careful of local noise restrictions.
Wheels must be stock diameter and width and =/- .25" offset from stock.
You can use any brake pads, oil and grease that you want.
That is about all you can do to the car and run stock class.
Good luck and HAVE FUN!!!!!
Spark plugs (don't bother), and Magnecor plug wires (good for a small boost), and a K&N drop-in filter in the standard intake housing.
Oh, and any DOT approved tire of any size that will fit on your rims and not rub on your fender. So, low-profile, sticky DOT-approved "race" tires like Hoosiers...
Shift lights are also legal; you can replace the stock stereo and speakers but you can't delete them. No polyurethane anything or short shifter either for GS.
I did GS PAX in Street Tire (a local only class) last year with the only upgrades being Konis, now I'm running H&R's, BAT bar, poly bushings, 15x7 wheels and a camber kit. All of which is hellasweet.
Re: Racing - 03/04/04 06:39 PM
Here it is from the 2003 rule book:
Standard, as defined herein, suspension springs must be used.
Standard is FACTORY installed, either typical equipment or a factory option. Dealer installed "no matter how common" is not acceptable. Spring updates or backdates between model years are also not accepted.
Standard, as defined herein, suspension springs must be used.
Standard is FACTORY installed, either typical equipment or a factory option. Dealer installed "no matter how common" is not acceptable. Spring updates or backdates between model years are also not accepted.
Re: Racing - 03/05/04 04:52 PM
Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Here it is from the 2003 rule book:
Standard, as defined herein, suspension springs must be used.
Standard is FACTORY installed, either typical equipment or a factory option. Dealer installed "no matter how common" is not acceptable. Spring updates or backdates between model years are also not accepted.
Sure, but you can use any type of strut that you want, but no more than two adjustments (compression and rebound) as long as they mount to the stock mounting points.