I am checking on interest in a 4 bolt control arm. I would need at least 5+ buyers at around $375 a set plus shipping. These would be powdercoated gloss black and include ball joints.
I currently have 2 bolt tubular control arms, tubular rear toe arms, cougar harness bars, and I am working on a traction bar setup that should work with both contour and cougar 4 and 2 bolt setups.
You can check the 2 bolt setups at
Site to see pics of existing control arms.
We can't see unless we register... Well, for those of us who don't have a NECO account already!
Whats the advantage other than weight savings? Also would these be streetable?
-tropictour
The weight advantage as stated, they do not flex the way stock versions do and they have some adjustment for the camber issues. They allow a slightly wider wheel (at least in my setup they did) without the rubbing issue. I can not attest that it will eliminate wheel hop for everyone, but all that have installed these on their vehicles, including myself @ 340 whp, have had little or no more issues with wheel hop. I can post links to NECO forums of people that have installed these and love them, if you would like.
These are streetable, however they are alittle noisy, but not noticeable when cruising.
I had a set of the LCAs and they have some short comings. Once they are installed you cannot make any adjustment to the arm without removing it.
I'm interested in a set but am a little concerned about introducing more harshness into my front since I have PRT frt and rr roll resistors and metal plates welded into my stock ones right now, and D2 coilovers. It's not mind-numbing but much more and it will be. Someone mentioned that the unibody/subframe assembly wouldn't like the stress of the impacts sent through these.
The bushings I supply for the heims ends at the frame connection are made from a mild steel that will give or deform before the frame would take enough stress to break away welds. Each set of the control arms comes with 2 sets of the bushings just for this reason. And future bushings are sold at $15 a set and that includes shipping.
these can be made for cheap if you have a torch and a welder. lol
Well you go right ahead and than when you realize that you need to machine the bushings, use a pipe bender (so you do not screw the pipe up by heating it up), a lathe to tap the threads, and a few other items than you can come and tease my product.
how do you screw the pipe up? making it weaker by heating it up possibly? well, welding does the same thing
its possible. i didnt mean to say it would be for your average garage mechanic, but if you had access to a few machine tools it could be done. sorry to sound liek a jerk!
They provide a stiffer connection to the frame, which helps to eliminate most of the front to rear motion of the arm, yes. But as stated the bushing provided will give long before the frame welds break. I have put about 15k miles on my car since install and they ride fine with no problems as of yet.
The decrease in the front to rear motion of the tire should decrease the amount of wheel hop you have because the arm is preloaded. But that is not why I designed these this way. They were made because the stock arms flex way too much in hard cornering and braking on the track and these have little to no flex in them.
These are totally streetable, noise is the only thing that I have an issue with on the street more than on the track. The noise is due to the fact that these are heims ends and not poly filled roll resistors.
And to be honest I can make these adjust on the ball joint end, but no one wants to pay that much for these parts. The hardware it takes to do that would make the cost about $150 to $200 more per set.
Could you please post some pictures of these installed on a car?
Thanks.
haha...yea, nude assembly is....well, ew.
