95 Contour Fan blower problem

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

The blower just stopped working. A/C and fan controls don't work.

I replaced the switch and resistor block and still no good.

The fuse is good and the blower motor tests out fine.

DOES anybody know where the blower motor speed control relay is ???

The owners manual refers to it as R18 and is blue.

Its not located near the fuse box inside or under the hood .

When interior fuse panel is flipped down it's the 3rd relay up from fuses. On my '97 it is yellow. Interchange with 4th relay to see if that solves problem and moves problem to rear window defroster.

I tried that. The problem is still there.

I disconnected the blower motor and put a volt meter across the wires that power the blower motor.

13 volts when in the fan mode
1.2 volts when in the a/c mode
when turning the switch to different speeds they all read 13v only 1.2 volts when in the a/c mode.

I applied 13 volts to the blower motor and it works fine.
Just won't work when hooked to the car.

Is there any other relays that control fan speeds.

No fan or A/C turns on.

A/C was running when the fan stopped working.

Does fan work for other positions of mode switch, i.e. floor, vent or defrost?

No, nothing else works.

But there is 12 volts dc at the fan motor when the switch is turned to fan postion.

The fan motor just doesn't run.

But when I hook the fan direct to a battery it runs fine ?????

I just can't figure it out ????

Hi,

Horseydug and I are discussing a similar problem here , you might want to have a look at that thread, we are on very similar ground... maybe it'll help..

Kyo

Same problem as yours, just can't figure it out !

I wonder if the green relay in the fuse box has anything to do with this under the hood.

Its marked engine cooling relay 60 amps.

I don't have any diagrams so I am guessing at it.

I will try to get this relay tomorrow.

My dealership lets me try out the parts to see if thats whats bad.

The relay controlling the heater fan is the 2nd yellow one starting at the top (R14). In fact the two yellow ones (R13 and R14) are identical, you could swap them to see if that makes a difference - I did, and nothing came out of it.

The green relay for the cooling fan is (according to my owner's manual) in the power distribution fusebox, which is in the engine bay. There is another one for hi-speed operation of the cooling fans (horseydug will correct me if I'm wrong). I don't think it has something to do with our problem.

I'll try to post diagrams of what I have, maybe it'll help... as soon as I get home!

I also replaced both the yellow relays , didn't help any.

I took out the green relay and tried to put 12 volts to it, it doesn't click.

Maybe its bad ????

I tested the coil side of the relay, and sometimes there's
and ohm reading and sometimes theres not.

Maybe its worth trying .

I will be back on the site tomorrow nite, need to be at work at 4am.

You said you have 13volts at the blower motor...ok, then it seems its a ground issue. The motor gets the ground signal from the blower motor switch through the resistor...is what I see...and blk #31 is the ground wire. So in actual fact the speed is controlled through the resistor and ground operates the blower...not power.So there should be power at the blower all the time...and when you turn the switch ground is fed through the resister to the blower motor...I could be wrong...but thats what I see.

Here is the diagram I have, hope it helps...

For the full-res picture I scanned, remove the _small from the filename, same address.

'95 may be slightly different, IIRC they have an off position on fan speed switch and only 3 fan speeds.

Also, load side of blower relay should have feed to a/c system circuits, including compressor clutch. Perhaps this is shown on another page. Would be helpful if you could find and also post.

What I've got is for my model year, but I'll scan it anyways, maybe it'll help....

http://pages.infinit.net/loginord/ac.jpg for the full-scale image..

Thanks. Spread out over three pages in Ford manual, a little easier to follow on one. Relevant to several current threads so I've linked to this one.

Like I said in the previous post....you said you have power at the blower motor correct???? so look at the other side of the blower motor where ground comes from....it starts at a ground stud behind the kick panel and goes through the resistor and blower switch to complete the circit. What you could do to confirm this is....the two wires you have going to the blower...one has power like you said and the other should get ground when the switch is turned on...so ground that other wire going to the motor and the motor should work. this would confirm the either the blower switch, resistor, or ground stud is faulty. I suspect either a wire is no good...or you have lost the ground on that stud behind the kick panel.Again I repeat....the blower switch activates the motor by suppling it ground, not power...so check the ground side.

Im basing this on your post saying you have power at the blower motor...look only at the bottom section of the drawing for the ground side.You have to have ground at S216 which in your drawing says is behind right center of Instrument panel...that S216 has to have ground or no blower.

Thanks alot guys for all the schematics, helps out alot.
I still can't get the motor to work. I verified there is a ground going to the blower motor. And I also ran another groung to the fan and still no good.

There is 12 volts dc at the plug going to the fan when the switch is in the fan mode. When I change the speed control switch there still is 12v dc there.

When I switch to a/c mode then there is only 4 volts across the plug.

I even tried a new blower fan, still no good.

??????????????????????

hey i own a 96 gl 4 cyl and just to let you know i had a severe problem with a/c my blower switch melted which ran down to my fuse box and started melting that so just beware i took my car to the dealership for the wire harness recall and blower switch and resistor. now i really hate the dealership. just food for thought sounds like my nightmare

What is a shorting bar ????

connector # 1 and # 3
in the 1st schematic above ?

And where is it located ?

Originally posted by overton:
Thanks alot guys for all the schematics, helps out alot.
I still can't get the motor to work. I verified there is a ground going to the blower motor. And I also ran another groung to the fan and still no good.

There is 12 volts dc at the plug going to the fan when the switch is in the fan mode. When I change the speed control switch there still is 12v dc there.

When I switch to a/c mode then there is only 4 volts across the plug.

I even tried a new blower fan, still no good.

??????????????????????

Ok let me get this straight...your know saying you have 12 volts at the fan motor plug and you have ground??? If that was the case your fan would be working. Purple/Blue should have 12 volts at the fan motor....probe that wire at the fan...and tell us what you have? And Blue/Black should have ground at the motor...what do you have? You should be able to hook your test lights ground to the Blue/Black and probe the Purple/Blue and get a 12 volt read...Your making this more confusing than what it really is...Tell us directly at the motor what power and ground you have...when you say you have it at the plug...do you have it on the other side of the plug??? Take your measrure right at the wires going into the motor and report your findings.

There is 12 vdc right at the wires going into the plug.

This is what I don't understand. Test light and volt meter show there is power there. Just the fan doesn't spin.

I take the fan out of the circuit, and apply 12v right from the battery, IT WORKS FINE.

I then hook the volt meter wires inline with the wires going to the fan, it shows 12vdc, then when the motor is hooked up, it shows 0 volts.

Purple/Blue has 12 volts there when the switch is in the fan mode.

Purplr/Blue has 4.0 volts there when the switch is in the A/C mode.

There is continuity between the blue/black wire at the fan
and the neg. post on the battery or the ground post behind the right passenger kick plate cover.

I followed the schematics above and there is 12volts getting to the switch's.

Could something in the a/c be causing this to happen ????

Ok this time use the blu/black on the plug to the motor as your test light ground source, and probe the Purple/Blu power wire on the plug...do you still get 12 volts?

Next I would try taking a length of wire from the battery ground post and connect it into you ground wire Blu/Blk just behind the plug and plug it into the motor...does the motor work when you do this?

I just did what you said.

I still have 12 volts at the purple/blue wire at the motor.

And I ran a new ground wire from the battery right to the motor.

The motor still doesn't run.

Looking at the diagram with the a/c in the schematic.

The purple/orange wire goes into the a/c circuit.

The fan stopped working when it was in the a/c mode.

Maybe something in the a/c is drawing the power away thru this wire, maybe thats why I get 4 volts on the motor when I put it it a/c mode.

I am going to try to disconnect the purple/orange wire from behind the control switch to elimanate the a/c circuit all together.

This should give me what schematic 1 shows.

Hooking the purple/orange wire back up should give me schematic # 2.

Likely the green one.

I just found what the problem was.

The selector switch for the fan and a/c mode is bad.

There is no 12 volts coming off the purple wire coming out of the switch. I ran a jumper from purple/blue wire to the purple wire and the fan worked.

I replaced the selector switch and it now works fine.

I was getting 12volts across the wires going into the fan, but that was coming from the relay coil, when I hooked the fan back up, the coil would drop out.

Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks for the help. Just went out with the test light and checked mine. Had the same problem. There was no current coming from the big purple wire but current with the purple blue wire. Ran a jumper from the two and the fan came on. And this was with two switches. I went to the junkyard yesterday and got one and that one was bad too (Must have been a common problem). Time to call up the ford dealership. Too late today but first thing in the morning. To hot in Texas to wait too long. Thanks again.