i was having misfiring and CELs from when I got my car until when I put my magnecors and autolite double plats in about a month ago. since i put the wires and plugs in, there has been no problems. the wires did not fit to my satisfaction but they're on. today, a CEL clicks on. So I figure it might be a fluke and reset the ecu. i drive to work and it's fine. then i start it up after about a half hour, and the CEL is back. There is a small, barely noticeable exhaust pufft at about 1250 rpm after startup when it is lowering down to idle. it sounds like it doesnt run exactly right from the "tailpipe listening test", but i can't be too sure. i checked the wires thinking one was off, but they are all on. what else could it be? i read the zetec post about autolites not being right, the motorcrafts are required maybe. but i thought they were the same. anybody have any input or diagnoses on my problem? thanx.

I would pull the plugs and check the gap, Autolites are quality plugs, so you shopuldn't have any probs. When was the last time you:

1) Cleaned the MAF?
2) Cleaned the Throttle Body and EGR passages?
3) Cleaned the IAC?
4) Checked the IMRC linkage?

All of these (and others) could contribute to rough idling....And, all of these "fixes" can be found in the FAQ's ands by using the Search function here.....Good luck my friend!

ok, i took the car to goodyear by where i work. they say the code is telling them that it is the camshaft positioning sensor on bank 1 IIRC. they say 100 for part, 130 for labor, and 60 to clear the light. i asked them to write the code down and i got home and it was not there. i will go back on monday because i'm cool with one of the guys and just get them to get the code again, no problem. the part that bugs me is the 60 to clear the light, are you kidding me. thats just as bad as telling me my headlight fluid is low. sensor is believable and makes sense that it would cause a little hesitation or misfiring. but i will get the code and post it monday. also, i just gapped and install the plugs less than a month ago, cleaned maf and iac about 2 months ago, and have not fiddled with the egr or imrc yet. how hard would it be to replace the sensor myself? any ideas, i'll search too, just asking. thanx.

i was looking at the wrong slip, the code is P0340. also i need a new serpentine belt and they want 70 for the belt and 88 for labor.

You can get a good belt for about $20 and do it yourself and save the money..... 70 and 80, wow... those guys want to get rich quick?????

WOW! .. If I were you I would replace the sensor myself as well. That sensor is only held in by one 10MM bolt. It takes about 10 minutes at most to replace and isn't even close to worth the $ that they are asking. I agree on the belt as well, that is also something that you can do. The belt is a little harder than the sensor but with a few minutes and some patients it can also be done.

-Nate
98.5 SVT
3L w/juice

They are trying to arse rape you. All you have to do for the serpentine belt is relieve the tension with a wrench and slide the belt off, installation is the reverse and is nearly as easy. 10 min job.

I can't believe they want to charge you 60 just for pulling the ground, just ridiculous. If i were you i would go back and laugh in their faces.

i searched and some have replaced the sensor to success and some still don't work, but i have gathered plenty of info. first, the part is 14 bux on fordpartsonline.com as opposed to 100 from goodyear, then i hear it is a one bolt, ten minute job, as opposed to 130 bux from goodyear. they are really pissing me off, i wonder how many old people they screw over everyday. i used to never trust them, but i figured why not after 2 years, just try them out, yeah.....that was a big flop. well, i guess i'll just try to get the part on monday from a dealer and try it out. hopefully it will work because i'm afraid to drive my car. it almost dies when i rev it hard at a stop, like the tb is letting in too much air or something; it dips rpms from 700 to about 450 them jumps up and my headlights even dimmed, then the whole stuttering thing....i hope it works. thanks for all the help guys. it's ok, to drive til monday though, right? not over 3500......

As long as you don't drive it hard or far you'll be ok till Monday. As for Goodyear, I have no trust in them at all. I do all my own work however, unfortunatly I had to replace wheel bearings in the front last yr and being that it requires a bearing press to do I had no choice but to take it in. When I got the car back they lost 2 of my lug nuts, chiped my rim, and bent the caliper bracket. I had to take the car to a rim shop to have the rim repaired, at their expence, then wait a week to get matching lugs in from Ford, then ended up fixing the caliper bracket on my own. In short, I'll never trust them again.The sensor is really easy to install though, and the belt is about the same. Both are not even close to worth what they are trying to nail you for.

-Nate
98.5 SVT
3L w/juice

From service manual

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor

Removal

1. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor electrical connector.

2. Remove the camshaft position sensor.

Installation

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Sensor is held in place with one bolt. Sounds like 15 minutes labor (including lifting/lowering hood, locating sensor). Sensor list price is $17.44 (www.fordpartsonline.com). CEL reset 5 minutes.

Perhaps they were just joking with you. If not, suggest you switch repair shops, immediately.

Edit:
p.s. Sorry, composed off-line and posted without seeing your 5:08 am post.