Blower is not working Need Help.

Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

Ok after picking up a chilton manual trying to figure out this problem with no luck. This is on a 98 atx contour so I need your help.

I'll assume you mean the blower for the HVAC system.

Check Fuses F37 & F23 in the under dash fuse panel. Check blower relay, same panel.

Verify the relay energizes when the heater mode switch is moved to any position other than OFF with the ignition switch in RUN. You should be able to feel the relay click with your fingertip if it energizes.

If it energizes, measure the DC voltage (relative to ground) on both terminals of the blower motor connector. Let me know what reading you get.

Steve

Welcome deshaundsm

. First post in 17 months.

If the fuses are fine, check for blower resistor, switch or the blower motor itself.

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1165312&Forum=trouble&Words=sockeye&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=1year&Main=1165312&Search=true#Post1165312

I already check fuse 37 and replaced it with no luck, I will try the second half(relay)after work today hope to get back to ya.

Resistor pack can't cause a "no blower" condition.

You can remove the pack and you'll still have the blower operating at high speed on the HIGH setting.

Steve

Ok I check the fuse 23 and replaced it didnt help, I checked the blower relay and heard and felt it click so thats working. Now how do I check the blower itself.

Much Thanks, Deshaun

Multimeter

..or remove the blower and hot wire to the battery. If it works, you know it is not the blower. But I suspect you will see some melted wires or connectors near the resistor when you are at that point.

ok I just test the connection going to the blower with DCV setting at 20v the connection came up as an 12.18 with the key turn on the run position with the blower on. Is this good.

Wire connection is good. Now test the blower motor.

Originally posted by Tony2005:
..or remove the blower and hot wire to the battery. If it works, you know it is not the blower. But I suspect you will see some melted wires or connectors near the resistor when you are at that point.

How do I do that the chilton book doesnt show how to test it.

Originally posted by deshaundsm:

Originally posted by Tony2005:
..or remove the blower and hot wire to the battery. If it works, you know it is not the blower. But I suspect you will see some melted wires or connectors near the resistor when you are at that point.

How do I do that the chilton book doesnt show how to test it.

Blower removal how to in Autozone.com
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/cf/25/0900823d801bcf25.jsp

Remove blower, then open hood, connect two wires from the battery to blower.

But as you have a multimeter, you can just remove blower and set multimeter to ohm setting and check for continuity on the blower at the terminals. Zero ohm means blower is working (usually),i.e. has continuity. Infinite ohms means it is not working (no continuity).

Check the connectors and wiring at the resistor too.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/cf/44/0900823d801bcf44.jsp

and this.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1252878&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1

Well thanks for all the help, so I tested the blower to find out its dead, so going to check the resistor.

The resistor is good so it's a bad blower.

Did you measure the voltage at BOTH terminals of the blower as I previously suggested?

If you had 12.18 volts on BOTH terminals, then the problem is not the blower, but is an open to ground, most likely the blower speed selector switch.

If you measured 12.18 VDC on one of the terminals and 0 Vdc on the other, then the blower motor is open-circuited.

Steve

Originally posted by projectSHO89:
Did you measure the voltage at BOTH terminals of the blower as I previously suggested?

If you had 12.18 volts on BOTH terminals, then the problem is not the blower, but is an open to ground, most likely the blower speed selector switch.

If you measured 12.18 VDC on one of the terminals and 0 Vdc on the other, then the blower motor is open-circuited.

Steve

Yeah I did get a measurement of 12.18 VDC from the connector that goes to the blower, but the other guy told me to switch it to ohm and check the blower itself and kept an infinite number(never showed zero).

Originally posted by deshaundsm:

Originally posted by projectSHO89:
Did you measure the voltage at BOTH terminals of the blower as I previously suggested?

If you had 12.18 volts on BOTH terminals, then the problem is not the blower, but is an open to ground, most likely the blower speed selector switch.

If you measured 12.18 VDC on one of the terminals and 0 Vdc on the other, then the blower motor is open-circuited.

Steve

Yeah I did get a measurement of 12.18 VDC from the connector that goes to the blower, but the other guy told me to switch it to ohm and check the blower itself and kept an infinite number(never showed zero).

"The other guy" is now asking, Are you sure you tested the blower correctly? Maybe you should hot wire the blower to the battery to confirm if the blower works.

Originally posted by Tony2005:
...Remove blower, then open hood, connect two wires from the battery to blower.
...

Im going to try hot wiring,I should post within 30min with results.

Sorry, I forgot your name tony. Ok to the results :sigh: its dead

Ok well off to the junkyard I go.