Charging System TBS - CEG Archives

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Hey Guys. I recently did a post back in October with not much help and I still didn't fix the problem as I was waiting to do a bunch of mods to my car before I pulled the alternator. Well I did all the mods and my charging system is still fubarred.

I have a brand new Optima Battery....old Optima acts the same as this one so it leads me to the conclusion that it is not my battery.

When I had the engine out two weeks ago I took the alternator out to have it tested. It tested perfect. Which leads me to believe the alternator is in fact good.

We also check all the grounds when the engine was out and they were secure.

The guy doing most of the work checked the megafuse, connection to the starter, connection from the starter to the stinger dist. box that I have and everything appeared to be just dandy.

I have my battery relocated to the trunk and all the terminals are tight as well.

Why won't my battery charge 100% of the time. It will charge occasionally but not all the time. The battery light comes on once and while indicating no charge at all.

What are the general TBS steps to be taken to find out where the voltage draw/short is at? Please help as I need to get this last issue resolved before spring zing.

Thanks!!

slingersvt

You will probably wish you had replaced that alternator....

What's a "TBS" besides a TV station that's supposed to be "very funny"??

Get a voltmeter and measure the alternator output while you're running. Should have between 13.8 and 14.2 or so.

FWIW, when my alternator failed last summer, the BATT light never came on (and the bulb is good).

Steve

TrouBleShooting......

The alternator was tested at an auto electric shop and it tested fine......

Originally posted by slingersvt:
TrouBleShooting......

The alternator was tested at an auto electric shop and it tested fine......

Uh huh. Doesn't change a word of what I said....

Steve

So, if the alternator tested fine at the auto electric shop then why would I regret not replacing the alternator?? Could it still be bad? If so, how?

I just replaced it last fall. The unit I had to replace did test bad because the reg. shorted out or something due to a loose connection on the battery terminals. I thought the same thing may have happened but after checking all this and everything turning out fine....then why doesn't it work?

The unit we are talking about is my 2nd High Output Alternator from PA-Performance......

slingersvt

Originally posted by slingersvt:

The unit we are talking about is my 2nd High Output Alternator from PA-Performance......

slingersvt

WA2TUFF had a lot of issues with his. Was not happy at all. I think he just ordered a new stock one.

Originally posted by projectSHO89:
You will probably wish you had replaced that alternator....

AH it's not that bad. If you've done it once it's a lot easier.

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:

Originally posted by projectSHO89:
You will probably wish you had replaced that alternator....

AH it's not that bad. If you've done it once it's a lot easier.

Yeah, next time I won't do it on a gravel driveway, in the sun, on the hottest day of the year.... Due to construction, was the only time and place I could do it.

Steve

I already replaced it once on my own so that's not the issue. PA-Performance won't warranty it again because they already did once and I'm not going to pay for another one if the one I've got is not bad.

I repeat my alternator tested fine at the Auto Electric shop so replacing my alternator is not the issue.

Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this?

Look for breaks or rubs in your main power cables. They may test fine sitting still but short when the car moves. I had two of them. Heat shrink tube and rerouting took care of the charging issue.