I just got this contour about a week ago. 2000 with 87k miles. Drove fine for a few days. Engine light came on. Figured I'd check it out on friday. Well, this afternoon, I started it and when I pressed the gas, it stalled. Started it again and it was fine. A few hours later, started it, and it stalled again when I pressed the gas. Started it and let it idle for a few, and it seemed fine, loping a little. Later and still warm, started right up and drove fine to town. A few hours later, started it, stalled, started it, let it idle a few, stalled when I pressed the gas. Started it and started to drive home. Going downhill about 35mph, I pressed the gas and it died. Tried to start a few times and then it just stopped turning over. Had to walk 2 miles to get home and now have a week old car on the freeway. Any similar problems or suggestions?
Welcome to CEG!
The fuel filter may be clogged.
The lower filter on the fuel pump may be clogged, if so adding gas can help. If you can, check the fuel pressure.
If it smelled rich the ECT could be going bad, in that case it will run when cold.
You could have a massive vacuum leak, check the lines for cracking or other damage. Check the intake resonator assembly on the I4 for disconnected parts. The PCV line on the V6 has a habit of getting soft and collapsing.
The I4 could have a timing belt issue. Otherwise it sounds like a fuel/air mixture problem.
Need to pull the codes it threw. Maybe an easy problem since it popped up when it stalled. I've had other cars that had bad position sensors that cratered all the sudden. Need to scan the EEC.
Frist of all, tow the car home or to a shop. You don't need a per day storage fee on top of the repair bill if it is tow by a wrecker without you knowing (plus you will need to call the cops to find out what happened to the car).
Engine light came one. Was it the check engine light (yellow)? If you can get that scanned, most of the CEGers can help you diagnose it more.
Don't give up. Most of us have been through this before. You will notice that once you have more info, everybody will chime in with their experience to help you through this.
Agreed.. pay the charge(or do it yourself) to get it home.
Buy a CHEAP scanner from autozone, etc($30.00??, returnable even, but I'd keep it!)
or have it scanned at Autozone, if it will run again...
give us the code numbers and we'll go from there..
Ray
Thanks for the welcome and replies. Getting ready to go back to car and see if it will start. Could it be because I haven't named her yet? Anyway, if it will not start, I will have it towed to the house. Good thing I still have old faithful, my '70 VW Kombi bus (Shamu).
Well I went to the car, put in the key, turned it, and nothing. I hope I didn't mess up the starter. Could it be a fuse? It was too darn hot and scary with the traffic for me to check at the time.
nothing.. nothing?? no dash lights? no interior lights? no nothing?
or did the guages work, and just no starter, or clicking..
Ray
Everything semmed to be in order, dash lights and the annoying bing-bing-bing. I just got really no sound at all when I turned the key. And the dash lights stayed on when I turned the key, so battery is fine.
Is the Contour home? or at the shop?
Actually the Contour is still on the side of the road, but will be towed to a shop first thing Friday and diagnostic check done for free. I will get the codes, find what they mean (with the help of wonderful folks such as yourselves) and go from there. Depends on the problem(s) as to what I do or what I have the shop do. On a side note, does anyone know where to get a owners manual, or would a repair manual be enough? Thanks.
Originally posted by thasamorrish:
Everything semmed to be in order, dash lights and the annoying bing-bing-bing. I just got really no sound at all when I turned the key. And the dash lights stayed on when I turned the key, so battery is fine.
Not necessarily. When my battery died, everything worked inside the car, including the radio.
Originally posted by hetfield:
Originally posted by thasamorrish:
Everything semmed to be in order, dash lights and the annoying bing-bing-bing. I just got really no sound at all when I turned the key. And the dash lights stayed on when I turned the key, so battery is fine.
Not necessarily. When my battery died, everything worked inside the car, including the radio.
That's a crazy battery. I don't understand, if a battery is dead , doesn't that mean, ummm, dead?
A dead battery or faulty battery cabling will cause the lights, etc to drop power when the starter motor engages (or attempts to). This starter is not even attempting to crank ("does nothing").
Is the car PATS equipped? If so, there may be an issue with the anti-theft system that is preventing starter operation. If there are PATS issues, the car will likely have to go to an authorized Ford dealer.
Owner's manuals in Adobe .pdf format can be downloaded for free from
www.fleet.ford.com Otherwise, a hard-copy manual might be ordered from
www.helminc.com subject to availability.
As to the original stalling issue, I'd suspect either the MAF sensor or a massive air leak in the air intake tube post-MAF.
As always, it is necessary to completely identify your vehicle by year, engine, and transmission. Your signature is a good place to put this pertinent information.
Got car towed this morning and checked the battery. Checked out ok. Just that familiar clicking sound of the starter when I turn the key. Their price of a starter is $266 + $78 Labor.
Autozone starter is $149. Do not know what the shop would charge for labor with my own part. Don't really want to do my own work on their property. Just doesn't seem right somehow. They said the starter would have to be replaced before they could do a diagnostic check for the codes. True or not true?
"As always, it is necessary to completely identify your vehicle by year, engine, and transmission."
Did they scan for Check Engine Light code? That would have been a good starting point. If they disconnected the batter, then the codes are probably gone by now. As for the cost of the starter and labor, if it were me, I probably don't have a choice at this moment (and seeing that it is probably not acceptable to work on your car outside your residence, maybe HOA issues or covenants or something like that).
An earlier post mentioned the gas in the tank, was it below 1/4 tank or so? Fuel filter clogged maybe? It could be a number of things. We are also troubleshooting. Sorry if I can't be of additional help. Other more experienced Contour owners may be able to chime in with stronger opinions on what to do.
Did not scan yet. Also did not disconnect battery. Getting ready to call them. Plus, With 87k miles, could the filter be clogged already?
Yes, 87K is a lot for a fuel filter. I have mine changed 18k to 24K (or 18 to 24 months). Some of the CEGers change them more frequent. About $10 for the filter and there is a how-to. At this time, if you want a good laugh at my expense, Search the Duratec Maintenance forum for fuel filter posts from yesterday and the day before.
The shop just called and he said the code that he found was P1383. Drivetrain?? Couldn't find that on troublecodes.net.
Plus, how would that have caused the car to not start or have a rough idle when it did?
According to Actron Scanner,
"P1383 is Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retard (Bank 1)"
And according to their website
" �· P1383 Over Retarded Timing
Over-retarded timing is detected. The PCM detected that the Variable Cam Timing "VCT" position indicated that the camshaft timing was over-retarded when compared to a calibrated limit
Possible causes are:
�· Camshaft timing improperly set.
�· No oil flow to piston chamber.
�· VCT (variable cam timing) solenoid stuck open.
�· Camshaft advance mechanism binding (VCT unit). "
Unfortunately, that is the extent of my assistance to you. Someone else who has experienced this may be able to assist you.
If the car was Not purchased as-is (like from a dealer) they should have some guarantee. Just a thought.
DTC 1383 is a check of the VCT UNIT. Testing procedures should not include electrical checks of any kind.
Engine will idle rough, hard starting and may stall.
[list]
Cam Timing improperly set
CONTINUOUS oil flow to the VCT piston chamber
VCT soleniod valve stuck open
Camshaft advance mechanism binding (vct unit)
The first step in repair/troubleshooting would be to verify proper camshaft timing. If this is something that you feel up to doing, then you should begin this process at home. If this is something that you feel is over your head, you should very well have a shop do this for you.
If the timing is incorrect, retiming the camshaft will need to be done.
If the timing IS correct, then the camshaft advance mechanism is seized (unable to adjust), or a culprit affecting this is to blame. (see causes above)
Either way, this answers your question as to how that would cause the starting problems, and how to fix it. If you decide to undertake this operation on your own, I suggest you get a Ford Factory CD for your year of car, to walk you through it, picture step-by picture step..
PM me and I will hook you up with the directions and the guy to go to for one of those.
Good luck.
Ray
I have always tried to do my own work on vehicles. I think since I had just aquired this car (as-is), I was impatient about getting it fixed. In the morning, I will call the same tow company who hooked me up this morning($30) and have them bring it to my house. I will buy a starter and go from there.
Since the shop was kind enough to do the check for no charge,
and I will not be using their services at this time, should I do something to compensate their time?
unless that was stated in your verbal/written agreement, then I wouldn't forsee the need to do so.
If a free check is NOT their typical procedure, you may do something to ensure further "smooth sailing" from said location on the next occurance, from whoever it was that was nice to you.
That is your call.
The starter seems, to me, to be a long shot and off base. If you want to replace that, as well, then by all means go for it... we can help with that, too.
Ray
Ray, should he scan for CEL codes first? Just in case the shop missed a code or two, or read the wrong one off the clipboard. That would pretty cheap insurance for peace of mind.
by all means.. if the codes are, infact, still present.
Ray
As far as compensation, I was thinking of just cooking lunch for the guys. I have to go there anyway because it seems that when it was towed to the house there were no keys. Tomorrow: Go to shop and get keys. Get starter. Plant more peppers in garden. Get thingy to CEL.
Thanks again guys.
-Tom
If you look through this thread, again, Rogerm60 suggested the fuel filter. Make sure you have more than 1/2 tank. You don't want to suck up the sediment from the bottom of the tank.
In addition, you might want to change the engine oil and oil filter so in case there is oil contamination.
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/fad/tsb/9898.pdfhttp://www.fordforums.com/archive/index.php/t-37404.htmlGood luck.
Just wanted to let you all know what's up. First, camshaft timing sensor. Oil in plug holes (leaky gasket), $200 total. Included tow to shop and all checks, parts (sensor, plugs, wires), and labor. Drove car 130 miles and check engine light came on. Drove back home with light, on planning to go to shop Monday. Got back in the car to go to the store and the light was not on anymore. Something fishy, or nothing to worry about?
Intermittent CEL code. If it doesn't come back again, don't worry about it. But if you are concerned, just have it scanned at Autozone for free, or buy a scanner for $50 up. Enjoy driving your Contour!