Thanks to the wonderful people of this site, I think I have finally figured out my "chugging" at high rpm's...the IMRC. I'm not all that mechanically inclined, but I'm curious whether I could do the job myself? If so, can somebody provide some instructions? Also, from my searches it is hard to tell the exact part number and how much it should cost. Any good ideas?
If I choose to have a mechanic do it, what am I looking at, $200-$300? Thanks for being a great resource!
My IMRC has been bad for two years...i purchased one from a junkyard for $10 but have yet to install it...i can tell u that from the one i took off its not much of a big deal...i did have to take off the throttle body for easier access..but when i change mine i'm gonna just "no pain no gain" it and squeeze my hands down there...there are only 3 bolts that mount the IMRC..everything else is just those pesky plastic clips that hold the cable in place...i'm gonna do mine wednesday in fact and hope this used unit works...if not time to relocate the sum-bia..
Are you SURE your IMRC is causing "chugging"???
I would have thought it to be a fule pump screen. Faulty IMRC would either stay open:
(loss of low-end power, normal high-rpm operation...
OR stay closed:
normal low rpm operation, MAJOR loss of power after 3800RPM (3200 WOT)
Ray
Just finished changing IMRC decided not to wait till wednesday...ended up having to take off throttle body cuz of those damn plastic [censored]...anyway it seems the junkyard part is workn for now..lets see what happens when in hits 95 degrees again...so if it turns out that ur problem really is the imrc...not too bad replacing
Originally posted by Ray:
Are you SURE your IMRC is causing "chugging"???
I would have thought it to be a fule pump screen. Faulty IMRC would either stay open:
(loss of low-end power, normal high-rpm operation...
OR stay closed:
normal low rpm operation, MAJOR loss of power after 3800RPM (3200 WOT)
Ray
I wouldn't say I'm sure. That just seems to fit best. Under 4000 or so everything is fine, but over 4000 it "chugs" but keeps accelerating. It's not violent or anything (like when the fuel pump was bad). There's just no extra acceleration like there used to be, which led me to the IMRC. As I mentioned, my fuel pump went bad and I had it replaced last year. When this problem started, I had the fuel filter replaced, but those didn't work. Is there a way I or a garage can check the IMRC to see if it's bad?
Sure.. You can check if it is NEVER opening, by revving by hand (via TB) and watching for the IMRC linkage on the LIM to move.
Rev past 3800 and the brass bar should move backwards (towards the firewall)..
Ray
Originally posted by Ray:
Sure.. You can check if it is NEVER opening, by revving by hand (via TB) and watching for the IMRC linkage on the LIM to move.
Rev past 3800 and the brass bar should move backwards (towards the firewall)..
Ray
Thanks, I'll try that. They would have cleaned the screen if they changed the filter, wouldn't they? If you have other suggestions, I'm open. The only other thing I could think of was plugs and wires. The car has 75000 miles and they are original plugs and wires.
if they changed the Fuel FILTER, it has nothing to do with a clogged intake screen (located on the pump ITSELF.
two completely different things. The pump has two intakes, and upper and a lower. (the lower being there so it can still get fuel when you reach the 1/2 point or lower.
Because that intake is the lower one, it sits at the lowest point, and the sludge in your tank clogs what is called a sock filter.
When you are above 1/2 tank, the fuel can enter through the other intake, but afterwards the fuel cannot enter through the lower intake (due to dirty sock filter.) you can remove it comepletely from the pump itself, as the pump has another internal one that isn't of such a fine design (sock is TOO fine, and gets clogged)
Simply changing the fuel filter (located on the undercarriage, passenger side) is NOT related.
Simply stated: if you see your IMRC working, look in to removing the sock (or cleaning it.. up to you) in the tank.. accessible through the rear seat, from within the cabin.
Ray
If it is the sock that's clogged, would I only experience the problem at less than 1/2 a tank? The problem doesn't seem related to how much gas is in the tank.
Yes. if the sock is the problem, you would experience it at certain levels (not neccesarily ONLY 1/2... maybe 1/4.. 3/8, etc.
Would always be close to a 1/2 OR LESS, though.
Ray
That's too bad...I would have liked an easy fix! Does my plug/wire theory make any sense?
Speaking of an easy fix I had the same problem with my car my secondary valves were not opening (lack of acceleration passing 4000rpm). I found the 7 dollar plastic bushing missing and the metal rod that pulls open the secondary valves just hagging there. The Ford parts guy says those bushings always break. 98 SVT-93000 miles
Maybe someone can help me out with this one. My IMRC works fine when the car is cold, but after a long drive when the engine is really warm, secondaries don't kick in. Once it cools down, everything is back to normal with it. Kinda strange, but what would be the fix for this, relocation?
that, or replacing a/some transistor(s)
I actually am working on a relocation How-to, right now.. you basically move it to either the side of the maf, or the battery box, etc..
Ray
Thanks. Guess I will try relocating it and see what happens. Ray, you are surely the man!
Green hornet I really doubt your issue is the IMRC. Car will still run fine w/o it working. Sounds like a fuel pump or the screen. It's pretty easy to pull the back seat and open up the fuel pump access door. All the info is in the how-to. If you need me to do it for you I'm in Grand Rapids. I'd advise doing the Focus SVT fuel pump fix. About $100 from Bill Jenkins.
Originally posted by todras XXL:
Green hornet I really doubt your issue is the IMRC. Car will still run fine w/o it working. Sounds like a fuel pump or the screen. It's pretty easy to pull the back seat and open up the fuel pump access door. All the info is in the how-to. If you need me to do it for you I'm in Grand Rapids. I'd advise doing the Focus SVT fuel pump fix. About $100 from Bill Jenkins.
If the screen is the culprit, would I only experience the problem with less than half a tank? If it is the pump, I'll be pissed since it is relatively new. What is the Focus SVT fuel pump fix? Using a fuel pump from a Focus SVT?
What is this fix for Returnless Fuel Pump Fix ?
Ok, I went out at lunch to rev the engine with the TB. The metal piece underneath the TB moves towards the firewall when I rev it high enough. I guess that means the problem is not with the IMRC. I pulled up the backseat too to look at the fuel pump access point. Mine looks different than the one in the replacement how-to. Mine has only two "things" coming out of the top at the front. How do I go about removing that sock?
Thanks for the help. I like to be able to go to a garage and tell them what I think the problem is rather than just saying "its rough at high rpm's". They like to "fix" everything to find out which fix works.
By all the posts, it looks like there is a common failure with the V6. I replaced my fuel pump (pretty easy) and the sock was spotless after all these years. I still have the lean out condition (bank one & two) but the WOT cutting out is gone. Get a fuel pressure gauge first, about 40 bucks, and see if the pressures are OK. You can check the regulator operation by removing the vacuum line from the intake manifold and plugging it right away. Pressure should jump up to about 40psi from around 30 with vacuum on. I'm still having problems and it looks like a vacuum leak in the intake because I can't find anything else wrong. My IMRC is working fine too.
Originally posted by GreenHornet:
Ok, I went out at lunch to rev the engine with the TB. The metal piece underneath the TB moves towards the firewall when I rev it high enough. I guess that means the problem is not with the IMRC. I pulled up the backseat too to look at the fuel pump access point. Mine looks different than the one in the replacement how-to. Mine has only two "things" coming out of the top at the front. How do I go about removing that sock?
Thanks for the help. I like to be able to go to a garage and tell them what I think the problem is rather than just saying "its rough at high rpm's". They like to "fix" everything to find out which fix works.
All returnless late 99 on up is the same.
Yours looks like this correct? 
I wouldn't advise taking it to a garage unless you do the Focus SVT pump swap first and remove the disc screen at the same time. For $100 and 25 minutes it's worth it. Hell I'll do it for $30 and save you the garage raping. 
I hate to beat a dead horse but watching the metal bar/rod under the throttle body move isn't good enough. It will move whether it's attached to the secondary valves or not (and it sits right where its supposed to attached or unattatched). Make sure it's attached, it's not easy to see if you don't have a light on it.
Originally posted by Just plain todras:
Originally posted by GreenHornet:
Ok, I went out at lunch to rev the engine with the TB. The metal piece underneath the TB moves towards the firewall when I rev it high enough. I guess that means the problem is not with the IMRC. I pulled up the backseat too to look at the fuel pump access point. Mine looks different than the one in the replacement how-to. Mine has only two "things" coming out of the top at the front. How do I go about removing that sock?
Thanks for the help. I like to be able to go to a garage and tell them what I think the problem is rather than just saying "its rough at high rpm's". They like to "fix" everything to find out which fix works.
All returnless late 99 on up is the same.
I wouldn't advise taking it to a garage unless you do the Focus SVT pump swap first and remove the disc screen at the same time. For $100 and 25 minutes it's worth it. Hell I'll do it for $30 and save you the garage raping.
Yeah, that's what it looks like. So, replacing the fuel pump with the Focus SVT pump and removing that screen ought to fix the issue I'm having? If you're serious, I'd be up for hiring your help with this. Why don't you email me at kazooben@yahoo.com to discuss? Thanks!!
Originally posted by steel:
I hate to beat a dead horse but watching the metal bar/rod under the throttle body move isn't good enough. It will move whether it's attached to the secondary valves or not (and it sits right where its supposed to attached or unattatched). Make sure it's attached, it's not easy to see if you don't have a light on it.
Thanks. I went out again and looked closely, and it looks like it is attached.
Just thought I would let everyone know that the chugging I was having above 4k seems to have gone away after a month or so. I think you all were right that the screen in the fuel tank was clogged, but seems to have worked itself free. Thanks for all the help, though.
Hey guys. I was just wondering if anyone in the Grand Rapids, MI area could install a new fuel pump for me. I am having really bad issues on low gas and I have had a bad feeling for a while that is what it is. I think I'm gonna go with the SVTFocus one if anyone knows how to do it I would really appreciate it so I don't get completely stomped at a shop. Thanks!!