Ok i have no clue what the problem is, but i'll give u some hints as to what is leading up to it:
First of all, my car idles like crap. It runs fine at cruising, but when i come to a stoplight i have to keep revving it to keep it from dying. I know: IAC valve, but this was replaced with a brand new one not even a year ago.
Second: It feels like i have no power anymore. From about 2500 rpm's and higher, it just doesnt seem like my car is pulling how it used to. IMRC? Who knows?
Third: I just changed my oil myself the other day. In the drain pan, i was left with a little bit of a gravel-ly substance. At first i was worried, but i thought it might have just been gravel that got in there when i threw the empty drain pan out into the driveway.
Could any of these 3 instances be connected? Worst case scenario, what could have broken inside the engine that would leave this tiny, gravel like substance in my drain pan?
Maf cleaning wires plugs,fuel filter. clean your UIM out.
Might be a chip thing.. Gravely stuff is likely just oily gunk, hard to say without seeing it.. How many miles you have on it?
im up to aboot 93,000 miles. Forgot to say i just replaced the fuel filter not even a month ago.
Also i just cleaned and re-oiled the K&N filter
I don't know if these cars have one or not, but research replacing your MAP sensor. My 89 Tempo had one that went bad, and it would constatly rev, etc, on its own, and die out if you didn't keep your foot on the gas. Chances are if a good sized chunk of gravel got into your pan, it woudln't get pulled into the engine. I wouldn't want to find out though. BTW, why did you take the whole drain pan off when you changed the oil? And maybe it is just chunks of old gasket if you didn't replace it w/ a new one properly.
Originally posted by AlbanianSteve:
im up to aboot 93,000 miles. Forgot to say i just replaced the fuel filter not even a month ago.
Also i just cleaned and re-oiled the K&N filter
I am assuming the aboot is in reference to me being Canadian.
I reckon you need to change your plugs and wires, clean out your UIM and LIM.
nah nah nah, i didnt take off the oil pan, im talking about the plastic drain container thing that is used to catch the falling oil.
Originally posted by coatsy:
Originally posted by AlbanianSteve:
im up to aboot 93,000 miles. Forgot to say i just replaced the fuel filter not even a month ago.
Also i just cleaned and re-oiled the K&N filter
I am assuming the aboot is in reference to me being Canadian.
Ha not directly at you, but i like to say it all the time. 
I reckon u said "reckon" cuz i live in kentucky? lol kidding...
Heh heh, you sure the dirt wasn't in the pain prior to drainage, seeing you might be a redneck..
Sounds like the fuel pump. Get a fuel line pressure test done.
I had a similar problem, but mine also had a no start with a warm engine.
fuel pressure test- is this one of the things autozone will do for free?
Does the car happen to die when you press the brake pedals, not just "idling" in general?
Ray
Originally posted by AlbanianSteve:
im up to aboot 93,000 miles. Forgot to say i just replaced the fuel filter not even a month ago.
Also i just cleaned and re-oiled the K&N filter
The oil from the K&N can get all over the MAF wires.
Clean the MAF wires.
Originally posted by Ray:
Does the car happen to die when you press the brake pedals, not just "idling" in general?
Ray
possibly, but not always...why what would that imply?
Possible brake-booster vacuum leak, however, it would be very apparent, every time you tried to use the brakes it would studder, die, etc
Ray
ok ive been looking into some maintenence items... I figure ill switch out my spark plugs, possibly wires too, so ive got the part number for those from autozone. Now, on the how-to for the SVT Focus fuel pump on this site, it is described for the returnless fuel system, i believe, from the newer SVT's? Would this make any big differences on my E0 SVT?
I would have to say there is something wrong with your car. That will be $40.
That was my best dealership imitation....how did I do?
Originally posted by AlbanianSteve:
ok ive been looking into some maintenence items... I figure ill switch out my spark plugs, possibly wires too, so ive got the part number for those from autozone. Now, on the how-to for the SVT Focus fuel pump on this site, it is described for the returnless fuel system, i believe, from the newer SVT's? Would this make any big differences on my E0 SVT?
Not to sound like I'm repeating myself...
"Also i just cleaned and re-oiled the K&N filter"
This a very normal problem with cleaning K&N filters. Some of the oil is sucked off the filter and gets stuck on the two MAF sensor wires inside the air intake. If you need help finding this part or need to know how to clean this just ask. Try cleaning the MAF sensor wires first because these problems you speak of are just like that of a dirty MAF.
If you replace your spark plugs, be sure to get whatever was in the car to start with. Normally this is Motorcraft. Going with other types and brands may have very bad results.
ok i picked up the autolite plugs from autozone today. I read somewhere here before that they are already gapped, but it says on the box to set it. I dont have the tool, so should they be alright?
Originally posted by AlbanianSteve:
I read somewhere here before that they are already gapped
I've never seen a plug that had the proper gap out of the box.
Buy the $.99 gap tool. I would buy the Feeler gauge set for $6.00, it more precise than the disk.
k thanks for all the help guys, id be lost without CEG!
If none of that other stuff works, your EGR valve may be stuck open. That would cause rough idle because it's supposed to be closed at idle.
Originally posted by gearhead:
If none of that other stuff works, your EGR valve may be stuck open. That would cause rough idle because it's supposed to be closed at idle.
sorry to keep this thread going, but.....
just finished replacing my spark plugs, old ones looked pretty bad. BUT...prob still exists. Ive narrowed it down to the secondaries, the car runs fine until i hit 3800 rpms or whatever it is. The engine tone goes from normal SVT exhaust to a deeper, not good sounding tone past 4000 rpms. Is this symptomatic of secondaries that arent opening?
Do you have A/C??
Get a shorter belt and bypass the A/C pulley. My piece o' crap car was doing the same thing. We bypassed the pulley and everything is back to "normal"..
Originally posted by AlbanianSteve:
First of all, my car idles like crap. It runs fine at cruising, but when i come to a stoplight i have to keep revving it to keep it from dying. Quote:
So, the bad idle problem is gone? As far as the loss of power, I think there is maybe a problem with your IMRC. If you search on "IMRC" in troubleshooting, I think you'll find a lot of information on problems and solutions.