Well there isn't much info in this forced induction section on nitrous I am getting a 3L very soon and was wondering what a safe shot was on a 3L with nitrous I dont wanna go to crazy I was wondering if 50-75 would be ok with no problems I plan on getting a tune and some headers before I do an install..
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What is a safe nitrous shot to run on a 3L
- Thread starter JRoX85
- Start date
CKtour98
Hard-core CEG'er
my car ran a 75 shot on a 3L with boltons and a tune.
for how long? How many miles did you put on the block with nitrous setup?? Whee you using a wet or dry kit?
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
I would PM Tricker. He ran nitrous on his 2.5L and had great results. It ran for a long time really well on a 75 shot IIRC. I believe his best pull was 225hp. However the engine was killed when it was re-jetted for a 125 shot? Can't remember the exact number. It would have been fine, but a small piece of debris was found to have clogged up the fuel jet and the car ran crazy lean (shot 2ft flames out both tail pipes) on a dyno run. Then later that year at SZ the engine blew on the dyno. I'm convinced that if that debris wasn't in the fuel jet his 2.5L would still be running today, at which point he could have easily been running 250-260hp.
Blackcoog
Hard-core CEG'er
A lot of Cougar people have run nitrous on their stock 2.5L's for years. Most run a 75 shot without any issues. I wouldn't go over that on the 2.5L.
TRicker
Hard-core CEG'er
on the stock 2.5L i had a 75 shot on it. in a 50k mile period, i went through about 18 bottles with those jets in it. never had a backfire or any sort of issue. i can't post a video here, but youtube has a video of a certain black contour spanking ass on a 04 mach1 
on the 75 shot (running correctly, not the fuel jet issue session) the car put down 268 whp 289 trq
on a 100 shot, the car put down 281 hp 301 trq
on a 125 shot, it did 318 hp, 344 trq
the dyno mishap was my fault. I cleaned the fuel solenoid but not the line. there was something in the fuel line and it re-clogged the fuel solenoid, and caused it to burn lean. i'm pretty sure i hurt that #3 piston that weekend. two weeks later was the dyno session at spring zing and i'm pretty sure i finished it off then.
The most fun i'd say is the 75 shot. A 100 shot will hold up on a 3L no problem, if you have it timed correctly, use premium gas, and carefully monitor what your car is doing.
the 75 shot enables you to get over 120 seconds of continuous use (around 13 passes at the strip) you can also use it in 1st gear and not spin if you are good.
the 100 shot requires you to be SPOT on with your tune and timing. Accurate bottle pressure is mandatory. You can jet the fuel side up a size over the chart's suggestions and that will increase torque and keep you in a safer range, but your still pushing it at lower RPMs. i was launching at 3k with my finger on a hundred shot and an open diff
just be careful or you might have this. I seriously never found any remnants of the piston, or the two exhaust valves on that cylinder. everyone said there were chunks of molten metal hitting the wall behind the dyno, i assume that was the piston finding its way out
things that are necessary: a tune, and a seperate nitrous tune to load, with pulled timing. (or MSD ignition with step-off delay and timing dials)
Wideband -02
EGT (highly recommended, even over a wideband)
bottle heater (automatic ones are great)
blow down tube
rpm window switch
remote bottle pressure gauge
something to actuate the nitrous other than the weak plastic WOT switch
progressive controller (not necessary, but wayyyy more fun)
by the time you get the nitrous kit properly executed and run a few bottles through it, you might as well have gone with a turbo.
on the 75 shot (running correctly, not the fuel jet issue session) the car put down 268 whp 289 trq
on a 100 shot, the car put down 281 hp 301 trq
on a 125 shot, it did 318 hp, 344 trq
the dyno mishap was my fault. I cleaned the fuel solenoid but not the line. there was something in the fuel line and it re-clogged the fuel solenoid, and caused it to burn lean. i'm pretty sure i hurt that #3 piston that weekend. two weeks later was the dyno session at spring zing and i'm pretty sure i finished it off then.
The most fun i'd say is the 75 shot. A 100 shot will hold up on a 3L no problem, if you have it timed correctly, use premium gas, and carefully monitor what your car is doing.
the 75 shot enables you to get over 120 seconds of continuous use (around 13 passes at the strip) you can also use it in 1st gear and not spin if you are good.
the 100 shot requires you to be SPOT on with your tune and timing. Accurate bottle pressure is mandatory. You can jet the fuel side up a size over the chart's suggestions and that will increase torque and keep you in a safer range, but your still pushing it at lower RPMs. i was launching at 3k with my finger on a hundred shot and an open diff
just be careful or you might have this. I seriously never found any remnants of the piston, or the two exhaust valves on that cylinder. everyone said there were chunks of molten metal hitting the wall behind the dyno, i assume that was the piston finding its way out
things that are necessary: a tune, and a seperate nitrous tune to load, with pulled timing. (or MSD ignition with step-off delay and timing dials)
Wideband -02
EGT (highly recommended, even over a wideband)
bottle heater (automatic ones are great)
blow down tube
rpm window switch
remote bottle pressure gauge
something to actuate the nitrous other than the weak plastic WOT switch
progressive controller (not necessary, but wayyyy more fun)
by the time you get the nitrous kit properly executed and run a few bottles through it, you might as well have gone with a turbo.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
There's the post I was waiting to see
RAD Merc SVT
CEG'er
I don't have any experience with Nitrous on a Contour but my plan when I get my 3L in is a 75-100ish shot but to be on the safe side I'm going to buy a Mallorey ignition box that will retard my timing when the WOT switch is activated so I wont need another tune specifically for it
TRicker
Hard-core CEG'er
good idea. like i said if you want the engine to last long as possible i suggest a progressive controller as well. then you could jet up even bigger and just let it ramp up. it works well for the guy that fills my nitrous and as i recall is not terribly expensive.
RAD Merc SVT
CEG'er
Basically this is what I would be getting http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/685/10002/-1?parentProductId=748468 (I believe MSD makes something similar) you plug all of your ignition stuff into this box then from the box to the stock ignition module. When one of the wires on the mallory box gets +12v it will retard your timing up to 15*. So if you use a WOT switch for your nitrous you just splice in the mallory box to that and you will have a nice reliable setup.