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Weird fan blower issue

beyondloadedSE

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 29, 2000
Messages
3,794
Location
Louisville, Ky
This morning on the way to work I turned on the blower to get some A/C and noticed that the fan was not blowing as hard as it should. I then moved the fan speed knob to the highest setting and after about 10-15 seconds it slowly ramped up to speed. On the way home from work, I got in my car and this time the blower didn't kick on at all. Eventually after about 10 minutes I finally started to get a little bit of air and then it slowly ramped up to full speed. Anyone ever had this issue?
 
Sounds like brushes in motor might be stuck in the brush tubes. I've had motors either have the bearings start to get stiff (usually gets noisey). Or Like my first contours cooling fans one had siezed and the other fan had enough light dirt in the brush holders the brushes stayed in place and diddn't track the commutator. That motor would run if you tapped it with something.
 
Could be motor or the power lead off the driver side fuse box, the lead coming off it that supplies blower power commonly melts on these cars, you may have that issue.
 
I'll take a look at it tonight. When you say drivers side fuse box are you talking about the one underneath the hood or in the drivers side footwell?
 
He's talking about the drivers side footwell fuse box. I've seen a few nasty melted one too.
 
Thanks guys.

Joe, if I pop the fuse box down in the foot well will it be obvious when looking at the fuses? Where has the box been melted exactly?
 
I'm trying to find a pic for you.


Here are some links:
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showt...h-the-fuse-box-melting-from-the-heater-blower
http://www.fordcontour.org/topic/14656-blower-motor-harness-of-fuse-panel-burned-2nd-time/


Yes I did get it fixed. It was a burnt connection in the fuse box.

Check the main fuse box wiring harness (it's located on the interior drives side, just under the dash if it's an automatic transmission) Look at the main wiring harness coming into the box. It's on the underside of the fuse box and towards the back when it is closed. There is a green wire and fat red wire coming in. The red wire is known to burn out. If the wire looks brown there's your problem. I looked at that damn box several times before I saw the burnt wire. Someone else had written about it so I looked closer and finally saw it. Anyway, disconnect the battery, pull the connector out of the fuse box and see if the connection is salvageable. Are the pins secure ect. If they are replace the connector. If they aren't you need a new box I guess. Mine was still good. A little melted but functional and safe.

As for the part, there was a recall for the blower motor resistor, it is the exact same connector. Just go to the dealer and get the blower motor recall kit. Here's a link to info on the recall http://www.automotive.com/1998/49/ford/contour/recalls/19794.html. The kit costs about $15 in Tallahassee, fl. The dealer wanted to sell/replace the whole wiring harness costing about $1800-2400 if I recall.
Anyway splice the wires together and plug it into the fuse box. Immediately after the repair I drove from Tally to Phoenix AZ in the middle of July. I haven't had any problems what so ever.

If that doesn't fix it check fuse 37 (light green with a 30 rating).in the main fuse box and the relay 14 and the switches

Hope this helps and you haven't already spent a fortune getting it fixed.
 
This is a big help Joe. I'll take a look tonight. I'm hoping because 99-00 models are not covered under the recall, that my wires won't be melted.
 
OK here is an update. I took some pictures in case someone else reads this in the future.

I checked the red/green wires leading into the drivers side foot well fuse box. Both of those looks fine. I also checked fuse #37 and its good too.
photo3-1.jpg


Next step, I removed the power connector from the blower motor itself. Picture of blower motor and connector plug shown.

Blower motor with power connector removed.
photo2-2.jpg


Power connector
photo1-2.jpg


I checked the power at the cable connector and I did get 12 V when HVAC knob was turned to panel and 0 V when it was turned to off. With that said, it looks like the blower motor is getting power but the motor is seized. Time to order a new blower motor. I'll update again once that's installed to confirm that fixed the problem.
 
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