• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Water Pump (Duratec)

6

69Boss302

Has mile high skills
Joined
Dec 26, 2001
Messages
2,630
Location
St.George, SC
This is fairly easy to do and is alot cheaper than letting the dealership do it.

What you need:

Catch pan for the Anti-freeze

8mm socket and ratchet

New metal impeller water pump. What you most likely be getting is just the impeller. It is the only moving part in the water pump. Except the water, of course.

New water pump gasket

(not needed but wouldn't hurt) - new water pump belt. I prefer Dayco belts.



Ok, start by removing this

DSCF0275.jpg


from here

SVTengine.jpg


Circled is the water pump and pulley. There is a tensioner pulley that holds the belt tight. It is spring loaded and easily moveable. Move the pulley so that the belt slackens and remove the belt.

Here is a better view of what you are working on.

Ok, now remove all of the 8mm bolts. Please note the 3 bolt holes that are empty in the pic. When these are removed, the entire pump housing will be loose from the engine. Do not worry about that but note that this is the location of the 3 longest bolts. As you remove the bolts, the housing will begin to leak. use some paper towels to keep your work area dry.

P1000244.jpg


Now that all of the bolts have been removed, it is most likely that the impeller portion will stick to the engine. Give it some light taps with a plastic handled screwdriver to the side of the pump. It should pop right off in your hand.

P1000240.jpg


P1000243.jpg


P1000237.jpg


If you are replacing the water pump because the impeller shattered, it is extremely important that all of the impeller pieces are removed from the system. Failure to do so can cause you more headaches in the future. Such as engine failure from insufficient cooling.

Check the mating surface of the engine block where the water pump goes. It needs to free any old gasket material or other contaminants.

Now that everything has been cleaned, it is time to reassemble.

Align the new gasket properly over the bolt holes on the water pump and put it all back on the engine. I find that it is helpful to have a small dab of RTV silicone to hold the gasket in place while doing this.

Install all of the bolts in the proper positions and tighten accordingly. According to the Service manual, the bolts should be tightened to 18Nm (13 ft lbs).

Install the Water pump belt.

Refill your cooling system to the full level to replace any fuids lost during this process.

Check for any leaks.

And that should be about it. If I have forgotten something, please let me know.

If you have questions, post here.
 
Last edited:
nice write up, and as you said, one of the easiest swaps to do. And since it could possibly save your engine, why not do it?
 
That engine is an 04 Taurus 3L.

The aftermarket lists the same part # for that motor as well as the 2.5s in our cars.
 
Thanks for the How-To...this thing really saved me a bunch of $$

I printed off this thread and just did it myself...and I've never done anything to a car before, just had my dad help out, who has only done a few minor things to an old Taurus he had...

When I was changing it, the only things I removed was the battery, (moved over the air filter case to take the battery out) and the hose that has the thermostat in it, after that the bolts on the pump were rather easy to get to..

The water pump belt is really easy as well, the front part just springs upward and you can slide it right off...

Taking the pump off was a bit of a struggle since it didn't pop off that easy but I just worked with it and got it off...Sure enough the broken plastic water pump propeller parts came falling out to the ground...

We got a new pump, put some gasket sealer on it, popped it right on and just finished everything up...Total time of the repair with 2 guys who know nothing about cars was probably about an hour or so...and this was something that a dealership quoted me $650 to fix!!!

I just want to thank you again for the guide here, very well written, very good directions, and the pictures helped out a lot as well, and it really saved me a lot!

and those checking out the guide that think it's too easy by the way it's written...it really, really is this easy...
 
Last edited:
Just make sure you pieced those impellar parts together to make sure that they are ALL OUT, lest one get stuck/wedged in your new impellar and cause you to overheat, again.
 
Nice post man....

Nice post man....

This is an excellent post man. I am actually getting ready to change my waterpump with a metal impellar one! This will help out alot and great pics if I may say so!!!!
 
I just did this task a couple of weeks ago. The pump was leaking out of the weep hole. I had checked on the condition of the impeller a couple of years ago and it was the "good" white version. The conical piece on the back of the pump fell out however. I fastened it back in with the blue RTV silicon stuff and am happy to report that it's still glued in there nice and tight. Now as for the rest of the job, to me it truly is a pain in the butt. I have to remove the battery - there's just no way that I can see to fight with all the hoses and reach all of the pump bolts if I can't at least get in there with some extensions and the battery is in the way if I want to do that. I've had a complete pump from Ford that I had planned on putting in when I just checked the pump that first time and I thought I'd do it this time. I again ran into the same problems of getting the hoses undone. The hose clamps are impossible, especially the one under the throttle body - even with one of those remote cable operated gizmos. In the end, I had to buy another pump - just the impeller half - and only replace that part. Even so, it wasn't very much fun. All told, except for the time spent buying the pump and the "my aching back" breaks, it was probably a two hour job. A lift would probably be of use to get to the lower bolts on the pump thereby eliminating the need for removing the battery. I also checked on the coolant recovery tank to see if the sensor "float" was stuck since my low coolant light is on. I used a magnet and I could hear it rattling around like it was moving but upon reassembling everything, adding coolant and getting the engine up to operating temperatures, the light still won't go out even with the coolant above the full line. I'm going to have to replace the tank I guess.
Karl
 
Whats the consensus if the housing side cone/ring thing is loose? Does it really matter, I'm thinking the pump water pressure will push it off the impeller anyway. Is there a simple way to fix it in place just in case?
 
How is / was it fixed in there? I don't see any signs that either the ring or the housing had ever been hit/peened to hold it before. Was it just an interference fit that no longer interferes?
 
ScottK said:
Whats the consensus if the housing side cone/ring thing is loose? Does it really matter, I'm thinking the pump water pressure will push it off the impeller anyway. Is there a simple way to fix it in place just in case?
Click to expand...


either replace the housing or peen it into place (ie, you set it in place and then hit it with a tool that dents the metal in, this is done where the cone meets the housing, this will retain it)

no other method is suggested. please check out this thread
 
TomNJ said:
Is the Ford impeller plastic or metal?
Click to expand...
That's irrelevant. The later model pump uses a plastic impeller that (as far as I know) no one has had break on them.

Your options would be:
1) get an aftermarket pump with the metal impeller
_1.1) remove 3 hoses from the pump
_1.2) remove the pump housing from the engine
_1.3) remove (break) the pump from the housing
_1.4) peen the reducer cone
_1.5) RTV the housing
_1.6) install pump
_1.7) (then reverse the first steps to install). If there are leaks, then repeat and ensure the housing and pump surfaces are clean and damage free (remember step "1.3"?)

2) get the new pump "kit" from Ford -- which costs the same as the after market pump. Kit comes with the 2 primary hoses (preventive maintenance), the housing, and the pump (already sealed to the housing).
_2.1) Remove the 3 hoses from the pump
_2.2) remove the pump housing from the engine
_2.3) (then reverse to install).

Option "2" is just better -- same cost, easier, and more simple.
 
Last edited:
any other verifications that the 'new' ford waterpump is an adequate replacement?

what kinda $$ was this new waterpump from ford?

im thinking of going this route as preventative maint... but with limited experience i dont wanna get stuck. is installing the full pump really easier than just the impellar?
 
the revised WHITE impellar has been proven as a very durable replacement alternative. I could count on both hands (okay, and maybe one foot) the number of WHITE impellar failures, and the number of SHATTERS/breaks has been near zero.

Quite a common replacement alternative, and I wouldn't hesitate in the least.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top