veterans...a rookie needs some help please

[montrese04]

car is a 98 EO. I'm putting in a (COMPLETE) 3L with deleted egr. all i need is to figure out where these last few plugs go to and what do i do about my brake boost vac

what does this green plug go to

i think this is my knock sensor connection but not 100% sure. if it is then i need the connector for the 3.0 so i can splice the wire

is my starter on correctly

i think this is coming from my oil pump but not very sure. need to know where this goes

i can teven find a connection that will fit on this thing :nonono:

i haft to splice the wire to make it longer seeing as whatever this unit is sits on the far left instead of on top like the old manifold had....correct?

dont have a clue what the heck this goes to :nonono: or what it's even called

and last but not least i need to know where this goes

 

[TRicker]

that last picture is a breather that should go to the intake, i do believe. the sensor on the fuel rail should not be used, if you went from a return style fuel system using joey's fuel rail mod (looks like you did) just leave that sensor on there unplugged. i'd have to look at the plugs on my car to be sure what they are. the black hose with the grey end is from the 2.5L PCV system that particular hose i believe is the fuel tank vent line. it can be run to atmosphere unless you get emissions testing

 

[SHOgoFast]

All right, since you put forth the effort to post pics of everything I will make a run at helping out.


car is a 98 EO. I'm putting in a (COMPLETE) 3L with deleted egr. all i need is to figure out where these last few plugs go to and what do i do about my brake boost vac

Break boost vac source can be anywhere on the Upper Intake manifold. If I remember the 3L upper correctly, there should be an unused VAC port on the top near the firewall that points right at the break booster. You will need to make some sort of modification to the stock lines from the 2.5 setup to make it work. Be sure you DO NOT eliminate the check valve in that line. Let me know if this isn't clear enough and I can elaborate further.

what does this green plug go to

That looks like an O2 sensor plug.

i think this is my knock sensor connection but not 100% sure. if it is then i need the connector for the 3.0 so i can splice the wire

I think that belongs to a coolant temp sensor. Should be found on the 'coolant tree' just to the left of the starter. (if standing at the drivers side fender)

is my starter on correctly

It looks like some wires are missing from the starter connection.

i think this is coming from my oil pump but not very sure. need to know where this goes

That is coming from your oil cooler. It should lay across the trans and join to another coolant hose back there.

i can teven find a connection that will fit on this thing :nonono:

That is an electric fuel pressure sensor for a returnless fuel system. I do not believe you will have the connector on your car. Should be fine to leave unplugged.

i haft to splice the wire to make it longer seeing as whatever this unit is sits on the far left instead of on top like the old manifold had....correct?

That seems correct. Solder your connections.

dont have a clue what the heck this goes to :nonono: or what it's even called

Where does that lead? If it goes into the firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment, it is vac line that goes to the fuel tank. It needs to be connected to a manifold vacuum source. On a stock setup it would connect to the PCV valve. (Stock PCV is eliminated in full 3L)

and last but not least i need to know where this goes

That line needs to be plumbed into the intake tract, after the MAF, before the throttle body.

 

[SHOgoFast]

This image shows the break booster VAC connection I was referring to. PIC courtesy of Tricker.

And this picture show the valve cover line going into the intake tract.

 

[svttour]

The first pic( green connector) is the knock sensor. E0s o2 connections were blue where the 00s were light green. Since this is an e0 its def not an o2 connection. If you use the 2.5L knock sensor then all you do is plug it in. If your using the knock sensor from the 3L then cut and splice the connector from the 3L harness if you still have it.

 

[Pudmunkie]

Going to answer these in a mixed up order.

This is the vacuum regulator for the EGR system. If you've deleted the EGR system you can gut this out completely and leave the sensor unplugged. The only vac lines you will need go to the Fuel pressure regulator on your nautilus fuel block and the two body lines behind the motor on the firewall. See this pic for reference: green line to the FPR, and the two red to the firewall.

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You wont have a connection for this - its only for 04+ taurus'. Leave it unplugged.
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This goes to your evap canister. Take a look at the following picture. In my hand is that gray connector, what it attaches to is the old PCV system from the 2.5 contour. If you're using 04+ valve covers (looks like it from your pictures) that will connect directly to your intake manifold. If that is the case you'll need to gut the check valve in the black pc im holding. Plug one end (its as 3 ports), run one end to vacuum on the intake manifold, and the gray connector on the final end... if that makes sense.

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Run this to the intake tract somewhere, see below picture. The line runs from the VC between the motor and battery to the mid pipe on the intake (bottom)

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Looks like the feed from your water pump. If you deleted the coolant oil cooler you just need to run this to a similar sized hose running from the firewall (its probably tucked behind your trans somewhere, maybe by the shift cables/ battery lines)

 

[montrese04]

Whew!!!!!!:crazy: as in the great words of katt Williams. you guys are the (sheeeeeet) :laugh:. Dont have it running yet but i can feel it coming a lil closer. Thanks for putting up with a rookie. might have one or two more pic/questions

 

[montrese04]

FREAKING IT......Started the car up today but have a very small minute oil leak on the timing chain covers. so now i got to pull the whole thing back out and do like i was suppose to do in the first place. (PUT NEW TIMING COVER GASKETS ON):nonono: I Dislike being a rookie with a passion. tho i dont think i read anyone purchasing new gaskets in their how-to threads. Hmm it's not a big oil leak just a tiny faint one.

maybe tighten the bolt more or take the engine back out. what do you guys think

 

[TennTechMan]

If the oil leak is small enough that it's not dumping oil out, I recommend driving it around for a little while the way it is. That would give you a chance to confirm that everything else is OK. You don't want to pull the engine to change the timing cover gaskets, and put it back in just to find out the rear main seal is leaking too.

 

[BrApple]

you can get the front cover off while the engine is in the car. however pulling the engine would make it alot easier ...

 

[montrese04]

If the oil leak is small enough that it's not dumping oil out, I recommend driving it around for a little while the way it is. That would give you a chance to confirm that everything else is OK. You don't want to pull the engine to change the timing cover gaskets, and put it back in just to find out the rear main seal is leaking too.

hmmm i like your point think i might do that then. just tighten the bolt a smidget more and then drive it around ans see what happens.

 

[Speed Demon]

hmmm i like your point think i might do that then. just tighten the bolt a smidget more and then drive it around ans see what happens.

be careful, overtight = cluster F

If when you pull the cover or pull the engine put your new gasket in and run some liq gasket around the outside edge for insurance.

 

[BrApple]

be careful, overtight = cluster F

If when you pull the cover or pull the engine put your new gasket in and run some liq gasket around the outside edge for insurance.

you only use sealer where the oilpan meets the block and front cover along where the front cover meets the heads/block and the valve cover .... you don't need it everywhere if the seals are good.

 

[TRicker]

FREAKING IT......Started the car up today but have a very small minute oil leak on the timing chain covers. so now i got to pull the whole thing back out and do like i was suppose to do in the first place. (PUT NEW TIMING COVER GASKETS ON):nonono: I Dislike being a rookie with a passion. tho i dont think i read anyone purchasing new gaskets in their how-to threads. Hmm it's not a big oil leak just a tiny faint one.

maybe tighten the bolt more or take the engine back out. what do you guys think

it could be coming from the oil pan.

find out where its coming from. i had to use a ton of RTV in the corner of the oil pan where it meets the timing cover.

 

[montrese04]

noticed that the oil leak was indeed coming from the oilpan connecting to the bottom of timing chain cover. right in between those two bolts

also.....the npg fuel mod.....does anyone know where i can get the plastic piece that clips on cuz mine has had some minor set backs :blackeye:

 

[montrese04]

ok so if this line goes to one of the hoses on the firewall. Where does the other hose on the firewall go to . .. (the coolant tree i'm quite sure but there's nothing like confirmation)

 

[OB1]

You are correct.

 

[montrese04]

turns out that the oil leak was because of a stripped oil pan bolt so now i need a darn 8x1.25 heli coil. :nonono: which is like $40 or go get another timing cover for 10 bucks..... BUT haft to take the darn engine back out to put it on :nonono:

what you guys think. Or does anyone have this size helicoil laying around

 

[Pudmunkie]

turns out that the oil leak was because of a stripped oil pan bolt so now i need a darn 8x1.25 heli coil. :nonono: which is like $40 or go get another timing cover for 10 bucks..... BUT haft to take the darn engine back out to put it on :nonono:

what you guys think. Or does anyone have this size helicoil laying around

You can try getting a slightly larger bolt, and tap the hole.

 

[TennTechMan]

I suggest drilling out the old threads, and re-tap for a larger bolt. You should probably use a M10x1.5 tap and bolt. Use a 11/32" drill bit to drill out the stripped threads before using the M10 tap.