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Vacuum leak, EGR, IAC, DPFE...which one?

R

RedBeardedDevil

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
36
Location
Pensacola, FL USA
I am about to head up to my work to get my EEC IV scanner back so I can post the coeds I keep getting. Basically I have not been able to give my Mystique the love and care she needs because of work and the surgeries on my shoulder. Here are my problems/symptoms:
-The A/C does not work; it does not turn on and when it did years ago, it only blew through the defroster.
-The heater does not work, at all. I can get air to blow through the defroster but not what I want when I want.
-When starting cold, it runs like heck. I have to play with the clutch and gas to keep her going if I don't have time to warm up. It hesitates then runs really rough until she gets good and warm. I know I need a tuneup, but the codes say that the EGR and IAC are at fault. But after talking to the lady at the parts store she said look at the DPFE. I checked it out a bit online(here mostly) and it may be part or all of the problem. Has anyone got a good picture of what it should look like? I should have the codes up in about an hour or 2. Should I go ahead and replace both the EGR and IAC anyways?
Excuse me if this rambles, I have a 6 month old and 5 year old playing on/around me. Hard to keep thoughts in order lol.
 
RedBeardedDevil said:
-When starting cold, it runs like heck. I have to play with the clutch and gas to keep her going if I don't have time to warm up. It hesitates then runs really rough until she gets good and warm. I know I need a tuneup, but the codes say that the EGR and IAC are at fault. But after talking to the lady at the parts store she said look at the DPFE. I checked it out a bit online(here mostly) and it may be part or all of the problem. Has anyone got a good picture of what it should look like? I should have the codes up in about an hour or 2. Should I go ahead and replace both the EGR and IAC anyways?
Click to expand...

The DPFE is a metal (or sometimes plastic) box positioned on the firewall side of the motor, under the EGR valve. It will have an electrical connector and two hoses coming off the bottom. It is relatively easy to see and replace if you remove the intake off the the throttle body. I just did this twice in the last few weeks trying to troubleshoot EGR-related problems.

The IAC is easy to replace, but the EGR is much more difficult as you have to disconnect it from the rear exhaust manifold. I've only ever done this with the engine out of the vehicle, so I'm not quite sure what would need to be done to replace it in the car.
 
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Here are the codes I get:
335- EGR sensor circuit voltage higher/lower than expected during self-test
551- IAC solenoid circuit fault, followed by the 10 separator.
113- Intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage / -40 degrees indicated
157- MAF sensor fault, low voltage
332- Insufficient EGR flow detected

I sprayed TB cleaner around the EGR, IAC, and DPFE while the engine was running but noticed no hesitation or anything. I am now heading to the parts store to pick up the EGR, IAC, extra EGR gasket(to try and clean it), MAF cleaner, etc. Without disconnecting anything I tried to see if both tubes were connected to the DPFE but can only see one. I will do some more inspecting in the morning after it cools off and the rain stops.
 
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I had to lock up the car for the night and will begin again in the morning. I had a chance to look at and feel the DPFE and it seems fine. I am in the process of removing the EGR valve to clean and test it. I am going to go ahead and replace the IAC but will keep the old one. Besides getting the car running smooth, I need the A/C back in working order. Can anyone tell me again what are the things to look for and where? The Archives are down, some information was saved but a little difficult to find. Any help is appreciated.
 
The DPFE, IACV, and MAF are all on the same bit of wiring harness. The fact that you have voltage/circuit problems on all three leads me to believe there is some damaged wire somewhere.
 
Andy Bennett said:
The DPFE, IACV, and MAF are all on the same bit of wiring harness. The fact that you have voltage/circuit problems on all three leads me to believe there is some damaged wire somewhere.
Click to expand...

Andy has a good point there. Don't they all tie back into the block harness connector on the harness side next the the master cyclinder... Might want to check that out, make sure it's not corroded inside or if its not fully seated.
 
I am waiting for a friend to bring me a tool I need, so I will check that out. Off subject slightly- can anyone explain why Ford felt the need to bury the PCV valve under the TB and EGR? Any other vehicle I have seen or worked on was child's play to inspect/replace. Just wondering... Thanks so far y'all.
 
RedBeardedDevil said:
I am waiting for a friend to bring me a tool I need, so I will check that out. Off subject slightly- can anyone explain why Ford felt the need to bury the PCV valve under the TB and EGR? Any other vehicle I have seen or worked on was child's play to inspect/replace. Just wondering... Thanks so far y'all.
Click to expand...

lol. add that question to the hundreds of questions we all ask everyday about the design;)
 
EGR and IAC were both shot. Replaced them and then tried to replace badly corroded positive battery cable. Now I have run into a wall; how do you get the darned plastic harness off of the solenoid? I removed 2 nuts but it still won't come off.

Edit: I got it off but have to stop due to environmental conditions. I noticed that quite a few wires need some TLC. Does this have anything to do with that 99M03 Recall? Would that explain why I am having to replace these, the cooling fan wires when I first got it, and the A/C-Heater issues? Does anyone know how much the prescribed kit, F5RZ-14K289-S6MB, cost?
 
I gave up with the wiring. I had to cut off the last 2 inches or so and rig up a new connector. Works fine. And I cleaned the cable as well as I could then wrapped it up. Car is still giving me the same codes but drives a HECK OF A LOT better. Still needs a tune up, brakes, etc. But it is drivable again. Thanks.
 
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